nestorint

After 40 000 km time comes to change tires. Michelins had sides of tires wored out after too many trips to our farm in mountains. I changed to 215/65R16 MAXXIS MA-P1/ Fit fine. But as wife took over my car I had to get this runabout which fits all 4 dogs, 4WD

All these mods on leased car? Seems like a waste of money to me. I have to admit the "upgrade bug" bite me too in the past as it was with my Subaru WRX estate. But after leasing for 1 year and spending so much money for upgrade I bought that car out

Is this a new style rear one? http://www.skoda-parts.cz/predmet.aspx?polozkaID=426

here in Taiwan warranty is 4 years (that was another reason for me to buy Yeti)

Hello. My Yeti is 2 years old and yesterday driving to mountains over cement rough road my Yeti rear gate badge fell-off (metal part, unglued from the rest of badge assembly) I guess from vibration and about +30C degree weather. Also car after driving on some rough roads develops some rattling noise at the front passenger door near the door handle. But then it's disappears after a while (maybe unglued something inside) Well I wonder if anyone has a same or similar problems and if it would be covered by warranty? P.S. I found the badge on the way back, but I guess some other car drove over it :( Thank you

I got no glare, but I have a panoramic sunroof, so I getting little bit more illumination inside of the car, but not bother me at all (when sunroof curtain closed)

I installed a set of 4 LED lights on my roof rails cross bars. They are 18W each flood/spot combo. Very helpful when I go to my summer home in the mountains with no street lights

Ok, shipped back today. To: Diesel Tuning UK LTD 11C Tanfield Lea North Industrial Estate Tanfield Lea Stanley Co.Durham DH9 9UU Will be there in 10-12 days

Andrew I didn't got any e-mail from you. I want to send the unit back to you. Now I cannot even run on map 1, If the engine was petrol I would say it misfiring

Do you want to send me RMA # and address where to ship back to you?

Andrew any update on newer firmware version? The only way to partially prevent (when engine cold this behavior still persist but to lesser extent than on maps 2, 3, 4) jerking behavior of the car is to switch to map 1 .0 When engine in normal operational temp. RPM goes up and down + - 200-300 rpm withing 1-2 seconds interval when engine idle. This car behavior drives me nuts when it fitted with the box.

No visible damage to a loop. Actually when I said I removed DTUK, I just plugged blank plug that came with the kit and after that problem goes away, so it seems not a problem with a cables. I'll send you e-mail about board.

The temp is: + 20 to + 26 C. I run the Map 2 -1

Thank you XPOWER for your advise and if you read my comments above I did tried to lower output with jumper settings. I didn't try to go to negative territory though (i.e. 4. -1 .-2) do you know btw what represent those settings? There are 4 different fuel maps I understand, what are jumper settings represents -3...+3? Boost?Or is it also dial down into map table? Go down in power band with jumper settings (let say it boost) will it give increase of 5 hp? Does it worth to spend more than 300 pounds for this increase? Off course these questions is up for individual who purchase DTUK to answer ...

Hi Andrew. How is a progress on testing of new firmware? Yesterday my car engine stall and I got Check Engine light on. I had to remove DTUK and after resetting ECU (disconcerting battery for 3 hours) its running fine. As of now I don't want to use DTUK at the present state, I afraid to damage engine or DSG. Please give me a good news.

I noticed a very strange behavior of my Yeti TDI 140 with DSG box when CRD-T box fitted. When car's engine is cold I have a very noticeable hesitating and jerking, like engine is cutting off fuel, the only way to cure it is pressing more gas pedal, which is not good when engine is cold and you don't want to rev it up. When engine warm up this behavior goes away. I tried maps 2.0, 2.+1, 2.+2, 4.0, 4.+1, 4.+2 the higher (+1, +2) jumper the worse. I live in very mild climate. Outside temp. never goes below 8C+ in the winter. It comes to a point that I ponder to take a box off the car, because when my wife use the car in the morning she don't understand why almost brand new car behave this way. I contacted Andrew at DTUTek, he recommend me to try different jumper settings but as a I mentioned above, problem still there. He told me in last e-mail that no one else he knows has this problem. That is why I am asking members on this forum if anyone had such problem and what is a fix. Best Regards.

Interesting observation, I think no one mentioned this car behavior after installing CRD-T: I changed map from 2.0 (that I found today after opening box was a default map) to 2 +1. Driving first ~ 2 km and car start bucking (if this a right term) on slow speed but after (giving more gas when got on open road) its drive FINE. Now pushing all the way to 4500 rpm and definitely more torgue/power

I run default settings 2 +1 as it came with from DTUK it takes about 20 km for stock ECU to relearn a new driving style (when I just installed and drive 5 km from garage to work didn't felt too much difference ) but now feels much better, not running out of breath til 4000rpm, wife even switched to chinese language to tell me she is afraid (I read it as a compliment to DTUK) because she told me the same when I clocked 4.5 sec 0 to 60 in my modified WRX

Got it

I got my DTUK CRD-T today by Fedex. Btw. it was delivered withing 2 days here to Taiwan. Andrew is very helpful guy. I placed order over the phone 30 min before he had to leave office for the day and its still was picked up by FEDEX that day. Outstanding service and customer support! What is procedure to change a jumper settings? I took a cover (just to check what this setting at (from the side window it looks like 2 +1), removed screw holding main board in place, but then was hesitant to use more force using screwdriver to pry board up as it seats very tight on the side of connector. To install it I went to my buddy auto mechanic as he has a lift and it was a breath to plug boost connector from below

Let me give you my thoughts on it as I had WRX for 10 years and had a tunable piggyback box which I could login with my laptop and update maps. I did all the work by my self on my car, including full exhaust, turbo, etc, etc. eventually when I reached dyno proved 287HP at the wheels I stopped all this upgrade madness as together with regular truck days it eated a big portion of my paycheck. About diesel/petrol saving a lot of ti depends on driving style. My car car could be more economical then stock WRX, all depends of how you drive. But General rule of thumb, the more HP you push the less economical car became and as you stress different part of engine and drive-train the more chance something will go wrong. Why VAG and other car companies not using maximum engine potential? Because they want their car to last longer. They sell cars to a different customers, so it needs to be more or less full proof. Against customers who could push their cars/engines to the limit or to customers who simply don't care about their cars as car to certain degree as a living being. Imagine your-self eating bad food late night, or on hot day when you need a rest you force your self to run 42 km marathon. They sell cars to different climate zone, hot, cold, different altitude (which affect turbo pressure) and longevity of parts. So all these needs to be taken into equation, so if small tuning company could remove these tolerances, with their remapping or tuning boxes, designed into cars then its up to tuning company knowledge and know how not to exceed the red line that will lead to engine/drive-train distraction and its up to a customer who is willing to take a risk Saying all these, I feel that DTUK has a good reputation with their tuning boxes and I am looking to buy one for my Yeti 2.0TDI 140ps I wish only if they could give ability to a customers do a future maps upgrades as I live now in Taiwan and it will be a little hustle to sent a box in the future to UK for reprograming

Hirundo do you think 225/65 R16 will fit in there? I like sometimes to drive here in the mountains and any extra clearance would be helpful and since we don't have snow here in Taiwan I would use my stock 16" Matterhorns all year round

Re-posting this from other tread I posted to. I think these photos will be more appropriate here We went to Nan-Ao small town in the mountains of Taiwan, just 40 km away but it takes about 1.5 hour to drive on those twisty narrow roads, and it slows down even more when stack behind big heavy loaded lorry. But 2.0TDI is amazing, helps to pass cars on those short open stretches of the road. We went to Hot springs deep in the mountains. And 3 days before in Taiwan we had big typhoon so many roads were flashed away. At one passage we actually were waiting for excavator to finish make by-pass road in front of us. Yeti is a lovely monster, good on and off road.

We went to Nan-Ao small town in the mountains of Taiwan, just 40 km away but it takes about 1.5 hour to drive on those twisty narrow roads, and it slows down even more when stack behind big heavy loaded lorry. But 2.0TDI is amazing, helps to pass cars on those short open stretches of the road. We went to Hot springs deep in the mountains. And 3 days before in Taiwan we had big typhoon so many roads were flashed away. At one passage we actually were waiting for excavator to finish make by-pass road in front of us. Yeti is a lovely monster, good on and off road.

Fox what is a safe numbers HP's to map upgrade for 140HP version of 2.0L TDI? Short of remapping my Yeti ECU (I am in Taiwan) what is best chip brand to safely improve overall car performance? Without too much sacrificing of fuel economy? I don't do any towing