mister8ight

Same problem as well on 2.oi. Fix it last year buy re-soldering three SMD resistors near LVR (opposite side of board) but it strikes back again few days ago. I’ve re-solder it again today, but this time I was paying attention to LVR temperature while driving. It’s so hot, almost not possible to touch it by hand and it warms up the entire left side of the board. I could only imagine temperatures during hot summer. The LVR temperature is not so high while driving without lights, but when I turn on indication lights/low beam light, it’s hot as some CPU chipsets. Does anyone knows are these temperatures “normal” or maybe I have some wiring issues as well?

Hi, My mk1 with OBD2 LPG is throwing "16806 - Main Catalyst; Bank 1 P0422 - 35-00 - Efficiency Below Threshold" MIL. I was inspecting this on VCDS (e.g. on idle) and rear O2 shows high oxygen levels (low voltage – around 0.15V) and low temperature (320C on idle). If I switch to petrol, voltage immediately goes up to 0.55-0.65V showing low level of oxygen in the exhaust and the cat is working fine according to data and fuel trims. If I run it only on petrol, there is no Low Efficiency MIL. Since I have the LPG software too, when I increase the amount of LPG (e.g. on idle), rear O2 voltage goes up for a brief amount of time (showing low oxygen levels – as it should be) but very quickly goes to low voltage again. As an end result, increasing the amount of LPG only reflects to short and long term fuel trims making it richer or leaner, but when these trims stabilize, there is always high oxygen levels in the exhaust leaving negative (or positive) LTFT for Idle or Part Throttle in VCDS Engine Block 32. Increasing or decreasing amount of LPG fuel reflects only on high/low fuel trims readings, but not on proper catalytic functioning which confuse me, ALOT. Somehow, whatever LPG MAP is designed, there is always high levels of oxygen in the exhaust. Bosch waste gate coil and cables, including NGK spark plugs and sensors, are brand new and OEM. Anyone have an idea what to do here?

I have the exact same problem with my 2.0i 85KW AQY Y2000 petrol engine. Can someone help me solve this issue since I've run out of options? There is no codes, everything seems to be in order. It drives me nuts since the engine stalls (for a second) from idle to acceleration because of this.

Same problem with my rear right door these days. I locked all doors from main board on drivers door and sometimes rear left door immediately pops back up and unlocks. When it's locked it stays locked. It unlocks only right away after locking all doors. I've stripped down door cover harness and find out (+) and (-) wires bare naked. I've checked connector also for oxidation, it was ok. Thought I fixed this problem but few hours ago it popped back again (engine was always running when this problem occur). Although I must say that I forget to erase errors with VCDS. Not sure that was the problem, but I advise you to check these wires on pillar first. If I may ask, can someone please advise is it normal to be able to unlock rear door when pooling door handle on other three doors? If I remember it correctly, it was not possible to unlock doors before (with these broken wires touching each other from time to time)?

Thank you for your answer. Just to clarify one thing....I know for sure that your statement is not applicable for this ECU because I did this many times before and ECU unlearned all readiness tests and adaptive values in past (it does not do it now). I saw it on VCDS on measuring blocks and clearly felt it while driving. I have this problem after upgrading to OBD2 LPG which is connected to K-line. Sometimes VCDS has no connection saying that K-line is short to ground. All I need to fix this is to remove LPG fuse and K-line is ok. Not sure, yet, what is going on here... Nevertheless, thank you, once again, for your answer.

Yes pls

I've disconnected +ve and -ve leads for 20h, shorted them few times, take off the ecu, all kind of stuff, but ecu wont fully hard reset to it's default. I know it's not fully reset based upon learned data from engine/readiness (3 tests are still learned). Can anyone suggest how to hard reset Bosch Motronic 5.9.2 to factory defaults (I need default map to start over). Not sure what happen, but this was an easy job in the past. Now, it looks something is wrong with the electronics on my car. Thx..

Hi, Not sure is it possible at all, but it would be much appreciated if someone (who has a tool and knowledge) could convert me an ECU Load/RPM map to Tinj/RPM map? I need this as a reference for LPG mapping (which I have big problems with) so I would like to mirror these two maps. ECU is Bosch Motronic 5.9.2 (06A 906 018 FH) Engine is AQY 100 747 Table is uploaded here (excel file).

Hi, I have replaced OEM electrical right side rearview mirror with aftermarket one maybe a year ago. Old side mirror was small one and had a faulty mirror heater. It was throwing a fault code on VCDS when I turn side mirror heaters on (on right side). Also, it was a bit stuck from time to time when I was trying to adjust it remotely (maybe from age and dirt inside the motor). Accidentally, few weeks ago I’ve find out there is a strange electrical buzz coming from the new aftermarket mirror when I open the doors (any 4 of them) and also when I open the trunk (doors closed). Buzzing stops when interior light comes off. There is no VCDS codes on electrical circuits or any kind of error at all on this car. Also, maybe it’s good to point out that I had some problems with comfort module and interior lights in the past (bad motherboard joints). I’ve re-solder the module and all was good and in working order and it still is. Does anyone know what may be the issue here before I start experimenting with new module or rearview mirror…which I have to buy first, and I would like not to, if it’s possible? Thx..

This is dead battery. If its dry cell, it will be shorted soon and U will have even more problems. U need to recharge it on AC power. Resistant is not good and it will be even higher over time. Test you have performed should say "carefull" for this battery. Correct?

Thank you very much! Cheers...

If battery is drained, it is the most bigger consumer and it's draining most of the current from alternator. Especially if battery is shorted. You will never had 14.4V with bad battery, no matter how good or bad is alternator and thats the catch they hook you on.

Does anyone know what color is SMD on stock mk1 dashboard which is all in green? Are they white (going through greenish plastic) or are they green? I need to replace few of them and don't know what color to buy.

Lift the car at the repair shop and read it from the bottom of the gearbox mate. Just clean the dirt first.

Worn front silentblocks, one or both. 99% both imho....it's easy to check with a crowbar.