Entertwainer

i've no idea how these even got damaged. it might be worth converting if the latest one i bought suffers the same fate. i'll investigate - thanks for the suggestion.

update: too tricky to glue the cable ends in and have a working mirror that still functions so i've removed the cables and taped it up around the bevel/swivel bit. this is an attempt to keep the mirror in place (so when you shut the door or go over a bump it doesnt flop around or fall out) but also, it does allow a small amount of wiggle to adjust. but i doubt it will last long (especially wet/humid weather)... glorious.

hey all, long time lurker here, but this is the 3rd time ive experienced the EXACT same issue with these poxy wing mirrors. i have a 2010 MK2 fabs with manual wing mirrors. the repeated issue i'm having is that the plastic swivel/base that the mirror sits on, breaks where the cables are resting - i.e. where the cable stops are, the plastic surrounding it snaps off (coz its super brittle cheap ******* plastic) thus, the cable outer is no longer trapped and then pushes the mirror into an awkward and unusable position. the culprit to this issue is highlighted in the images - however, this isn't my biggest gripe. my gripe is that i cannot seem to find a source for just this part and at £45 a pop for a whole new fecking mirror, i'm not interested in buying any more....so im reaching out to see if anyone has bodged this part successfully so that i can just fix it and move on (permanently).... not sure how i can bodge it so that i can still feed the cable through and slot the inner cable end into the slot - unless i just glue the bladdy things in place maybe??? im thinking epoxy resin would do it - since i need to anchor the metal in place.... anyways, i guess this is probably the solution that would sort me out best and i could just apply it to all three cable stops to ensure it doesn't happen again. Once ive glued it, i'll post some more images up and hopefully if someone else is having this issue, they can try it out too and not fork out 50snids BTW - this bodge will only mean you need to remove the door card and unscrew the adjustment knob housing to slacken the cables in order to get the cables in position before gluing it all in place. Hopefully the pics i upload will show this in enough detail

I've no water ingress. The door sits fine when shut. It just makes a horrid clunk when it shuts. And there is definitely a MM or so lift when the door is slightly open...no idea what could be worn that means it only does it in that position and not when fully open....need to replace the door latch as the microswitch has been mullered by the slightly off door situation....

Correct. When the door is open a little bit (when it reaches the first "door check strap notch(?)" I can lift the door and feel it has vertical play. When I open it some more, I can't feel it... Not sure what needs tightening/replacing though...

I've checked the alignment when the door shuts, both driver and passenger side seem to lift a little when closing, but drivers side is very clunky - if left to swing shut under its own momentum it doesn't shut properly due to the latch fouling too much. I'll try adjust the striker plate. Assumed there would be little wiggle room though so haven't touched it yet. Will let you know if it makes a difference! This is the reason I found this forum! My tape is still going strong! 😂😂😂

Hi all, long time observer here, but I thought I'd give this a thread as it seems it's not spoken of at all. Basically I've noticed over the past few months/maybe more, that the drivers side door latch is fouling the latch bracket when closing. A mechanic doing some other work on the car recently commented that the door has dropped slightly. While this makes sense, I cannot see how? I've checked and compared the hinges on both sides and it's showing no signs of misalignment anywhere. However, the door latch is a bit effed. The micro switch is damaged, meaning the courtesy light doesn't come on, so when the drivers door is open, the car thinks it isn't, I know this because when I unlock it and only open the drivers door, it will lock itself again after about 30 seconds-ish. What I can't figure out is why the latch is fouling the bracket. Everything looks normal, no signs of wear or being knocked/moved out of alignment. I can see the latch is damaged where the micro switch is housed. I'm going to replace it, but just thought I'd post this so anyone else experiencing it can see how this pans out or if anyone has solved it before can exchange their remedies!

£66+VAT for a whole new wing mirror shell just to replace this bit of plastic. typical really. should have expected this....

will give them a call, i'm hoping it doesnt neccessitate the need for a whole new wing mirror. £60 just to replace the small plastic part inside seems a little much to ask! may have to bodge it if thats the case

right, i know what the problem is. the cable has pushed through the plastic housing that sits just behind the wing mirror glass, snapping the plastic, therefore rendering the cable adjuster useless. is there anywhere i can get parts for wing mirrors? i'll contact a skoda branch, but if there is somewhere like ebay that i can get hold of the part cheaper i'd obvs rather that....

i replaced with mintex pads and discs. the sound isnt getting worse, and it does make sense for them to have some play (and move forward/backward with different directional forces applied). i hapy with this and wont look into it any further...unless it gets worse..... :S thanks for all the info Happy Skoda owner again :P

I replaced the disc and pads recently, but double checked the pads before i installed them. They were a perfect match and I did this over a couple of months ago. I'll have a look at them to make sure nothing is looking unusual. There's no chance it could be something else?

only just figured how this noise happens: everytime i apply the brake when in reverse (and have some momentum) i hear a 'clunk' noise. it only does this once, however, when i drive forward and apply the brake, then go back into reverse and apply the brake, it happens again. its almost like braking while driving forward 'resets' the position of something, then when i brake in reverse, it moves it back and makes that 'clunk' noise. its nothing in the boot of the car - the noise is 100% coming from the front of the car - it happens at slow speed (i've noticed it when parallel parking). this sounding familiar to anyone?

Feeling a little proud of myself. Discovered a noise coming from rear N/S wheel this morning en-route to work. googling only made me think 'wheel bearing' or 'tyre is gonna fall apart'. a quick visual check and a touchy feely around the tyre and i notice a bit of duct tape stuck to the inside half of the tyre - turns out, as the wheel spun faster, the flappy bit was whacking a bit of the inside arch as it came round. removed duct tape. No more tapping noise.

as title, recently replaced the wing mirror glass on near side. i took out my off side as well to make sure i'd bought the correct type (near side dissapeared after the mrs said it fell out while driving the other day). anyway, since replacing, the O/S (drivers) wing mirror adjustment has gone all bonkers and the N/S isnt as it was before. O/S just doesnt move the mirror glass correclty - the little knob is stuck in the 5 o'clock position - when i go to move it, there is a lot of resistance - when forced, it moves, but the mirror doesnt really go where i want it to, then the knob kind of springs back into the 5 o'clock position again. now, before i go and remove the door panel, or anything else, is there a cheeky fix to this? it seems like the metal cable might be caught somewhere? i've tried moving the glass around by hand to see if it frees it up, even removed the glass again to see if anything was stuck inside, but its all clear. anyone taken the wing mirror assembly apart before? is it a bit of a fiddle to get it apart/back to gether again? i will try to upload some images at some point to illustrate if needs be. sorry for lengthy wordy post :(

right, i measured the discs, which come up as 256mm. ive just discovered i'll need to know if they have the metal clips on the back or any attachments for wear sensors. pretty sure they dont have wear indicators, but whats with the metal prongs on the back? list of the variants here: http://www.livingstonautoparts.co.uk/brakes/Brake-Pads/Skoda/Fabia/all/1.2/2010/Parts.aspx

the discs passed the MOT anyway - just, i think. but still need replacing before they wear down completely. do i need a torx bit for the calipers to be released or is it just a socket set job? i have a rubber mallet ad wil get some copper slip to slap on to the new ones. noted on the meths/disc brake cleaner tip. will keep this in mind.

not yet - just been doing the old - finger through the wheel hole to feel the disc edge :P will whip them off one evening this week and check

about to buy a set - but do i need to double check the size? for a 1.2 fabia 2010 its coming up with 256mm diamter....

nice tips chaps thanks - will save me over £100 if i can do it myself

roger that. similar principle to pistons on a bicycles hydraulic brake (although on a larger scale - so probably easier to end up pushing more on one side i imagine). I have a g-clamp, but also have a tool that would make it easier to apply the force more evenly.

when moving the pistons back out to make way for new pads, do i need to look out for the reservoir over spilling? or does taking the cap off ust mean you can push them back to allow for the new pads? also, doe fabias need a tool to wind the pistons back in or is it as this video suggests? looks like i could use my home made headset press tool in reverse to push the pistons back in a bit.....

hi, Ive tried looking on this forum elsewhere but not found the answer im really looking for. my last minor service pointed out an 'amber' alert for disc brake wear back in feb this year (think it was at 6mm) got my MOT this weekend and i havent got round to replacing the discs. in the event that i need new discs, has anyone got any recommendations for where to get/what to get? would rather get OEM or maybe a better spec??? i will be checking the condition/thickness before the MOT rather than wait to see if they are too low/fail. been looking on Ebay, but dont recognise most of the brands (other than the expensive brembos). Mintex are listed, but dont know what they are like. are discs and pads easily replaced on the Fabia? i've done it on other cars (Micra/Pug 306), but this is the most modern car i've owned (2010)!! any info/advice appreciated oh and i cant afford to get it done in a garage - got the car tax due plus Motorbike MOT due soon too!

just picked up a spare wheel on ebay for £48. has 5mm of tread left on it which aint bad. will probably go for a full tool kit and sell off any bits i dont need next.....

also, no reason i couldnt just call a dealer and get a spare wheel, nut wrench and then get one of these off ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-TON-TONNE-1000KG-SCISSOR-JACK-LIFT-CAR-CARAVAN-MOTORHOME-WIND-UP-CRANK-SPEED-/281261769543?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item417c820347