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First, if you have the 2.5 tdi, it takes 5,4 L of oil. It's true that not everyone can draw all of it out when changing it (depends on the method and patience of the mechanics), so you usually end up adding between 5-5,2 L. I would use the same oil brand/type you had in the car before changing. I always used in mine the Castrol Edge 5W-30 (supposedly best viscosity for this engine). Regarding the filters, I always used Mann, but lately I have a difficult time finding the diesel filter (dealers said they are not getting this anymore, but I guess it's market dependant), so I am using Mahle instead of Mann now. Regarding the Polen filter it's common, everybody has it, just ask for active charcoal filter. I would recommend as above, use MANN. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

No problem, glad you sorted it out the cheapest way. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Very happy with Dunlop Sport Maxx TT (RT I think, nowadays). Any of the other brands mentioned above are fine as long as the DOT and the provenance are the right ones... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

I changed it on mine, you would need a car elevator or ramp, as it is located underneath the car, just below the stick shift. Looks similar to the brake light switch, you need to be careful to the connection's number of pins (2 or 4). Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

You can use a salvaged one AFAIK, just get the codes to match both modules. Is yours beyond repair? Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

1 - D2S 2 - Yes, Google it 4 - Look up pinned topic "water ingress" - pretty comprehensive. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

They are one and the same, to my knowledge at least. By the sound of your issues, the CCM or the wiring loom or both are the issue... Replacing the CCM is expensive, so make sure you know which is the culprit, I would start first looking for corroded wires/nodes and afterwards looking into the CCM. If you have a good electrician, he will check first if the CCM is salvageable, by opening it (corroded transistors/diodes may be replaced by a skilled hand). Good luck. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

If you refer to the Booster pump in the tank, AFAIK some of the models have it, some don't (mine. BDG engine, doesn't). You could check for wiring to tank by lifting the back seat. But, even so, you won't know for sure if this is your culprit... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Sorry to hear that, but unfortunately the EML can signal a wide range of issues, starting from pump failure to shut-off valve, EGR and so on... I feel for you, but I don't know any other pin point solution without a diagnose... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Glad to hear you worked it out. As always, VCDS is your best buddy in such situations... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Wow, just saw that sh_t is considered worse than bitch in terms of slang... Funny thing... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

If I understood correctly and you are talking about steering rack, that's a bitch to fit (gearbox off) and a **** to buy new (reconditioned ZF ~ 500 Euro, new one almost double). A gross check can be done while engine running, quick/short turns of the wheel left-right and if you feel / hear some knock sounds, might be a culprit... Any leakage of steering fluid noticed? Level ok in the vessel? I would check these before heading out for an expensive operation like replacing the steering rack... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

That is the oil level sensor and if something would have been wrong with it, you should have had an error displayed on your BC. Don't think it's related to your issue... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Closing up on 150tkm and hoping for the 300tkm mark. I wanted to be a rat myself as well about 3-4 years ago, but I couldn't find better options for replacement, in terms of value for the money. A new car with same comfort/endowments sets me back more than I am willing to spend and selling the old gal makes no sense as I get less then what I spent on her in the last couple of years... So, it looks like I will be haunting this forum for a while longer...

Best place to start would be a scan for errors with the VCDS. If done already or no errors stored, I would have a look in this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/340266-25-tdi-cold-starting/page-3?hl=%2Bcold+%2Bstart#entry4136817 , as myself and other members had similar issues, maybe one of the solutions mentioned there might be an answer to your problem... I have tried the cheap ones (changing Glow Plugs, "T" from the fuel filter, checking the G62 sensor), but I stopped before the more expensive ones like changing the injector nozzles, as I could live with a rough start as long as our winters are not as long/harsh as yours... It's up to you how far you are prepared to go for such an issue, as with the age of the car some issues are bound to appear.

From the description sounds like the G62 coolant temperature sensor... You should scan it with the VCDS first and check any stored errors, but if that is unavailable, you could check if any errors are displayed in the Climatronic codes menu (accessible pressing ECON+TEMP down+Fan down - Google it), for a faulty sensor. Location becomes quite straight forward as soon as you lift the engine cover, somewhere in the "V", close to the VP44.

Glad I could help you to get more insight into the subject. If/when you decide to go ahead and do it, come back with some first impressions. Good luck and may the force (and the torque) be with you [emoji6] Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

You know what "they" say, you never have enough BHP, or torque, for that matter as well... I did the remap 6 years and 120k km ago, just at the end of car guarantee period and most definetely you feel the difference. No issues since and I would say that it's enough time and mileage for a pertinent opinion. As I wrote in a previous post earlier this year, these were my first impressions: "What I remember noticing immediately was that you get at higher speeds (quicker) at the same previous rpm (somehow longer shifts than previously, at least with the manual 1st and 2nd were very short). Also you notice an increase in torque, although it is not needed, as you rightly put it. Locally we have several tuning companies, but only a couple of them provided long-term reliable remappings, with lots of good and old reviews." I would consider these before doing it: make sure it's a remap (OBD tuning, rewrite of the ECU file) and not chip tuning or powerbox - I heard only bad things about them, at least 6 years ago; make sure you get the original ECU file saved from the tuner, you never know when you might need it (if something goes wrong or regulation purposes - in some countries, i.e. Germany, it is illegal to have your engine remapped without declaring it to the authorities, due to insurance and tax system related to BHP); first writeback was free, but I didn't need it; guarantee conditions - I got 2 years coverage in case anything related went wrong; check with the tuner before, not all of them offer this; look for reviews older than 2 years related to the tuner; take into consideration a bit higher consumption - not because of the tuning itself (in fact if you would drive the same, consumption should decrease a bit), but due to the fact that you will be tempted afterwards to gas it more often. That's about it, sorry for the long post, hope you got a better idea on the subject...

They are ET35, a tiny difference from the standard. From what I know, any difference of up to 4-5 mm from the standard offset does not imply any functional issues. Furthermore, in reality they do not look to stick out from the arches at all, maybe the angle of the photo plays some perception tricks... Fully agree with you on the advice to save the money, although I would say save it for later, for issues like the dreaded VP44 (I see the signature), water ingress, etc...unless they were already dealt with... Another comment on the 18", besides the immediate obvious loss of comfort, would be the medium/long term higher maintenance costs: starting with more expensive tyres/related costs and ending up with higher impact on the front suspensions (arms, bushes, etc)... But, on the other hand, this is an emotional choice which one takes ignoring all potential hazards - I know, been there 4 years ago when I made the unnecessary purchase of rather expensive alloys...

As they say "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", especially for such a choice. Anyway, you could turn to websites offering wheels on car visualization to help you decide. You can choose car model, color and rim model for an informed choice (i.e. http://www.dotzmag.com/AlcarKonfigurator/index.php?lcs=wmqfnfk6r&lng=EN) That's how I ended up with my summer rims BBS CF 17" looking like this: A word of advice, besides the looks, try not to go over the top on the size, mine are 17" and I can tell you that the ride lost some comfort compared to the 16" original alloys that I have for the winter season. Depending on the condition of your roads, I think 17" is already at the edge of comfort/looks limit. Happy hunting...

Feedback on the above-mentioned: it was the HID bulb, changed and all is fine. Used too many words in the previous post, trying to ask a simple question: if there is no flickering before going off, might it be just the bulb itself and not the other 2 more delicate issues of the HID system (ballast/ignitor)? In my case it was a "rock off my chest" yes, although not sure whether this is generally valid. I am not the adept of diagnostics without the VCDS scan, so I took a gamble in buying the new HID bulb, but in the end paid off...

Mine is MY2007 and CCM is located in the driver footwell (but being a left-hand drive, so you should have it in the passenger footwell). I don't think they made different designs with the location of this module for the mark I, maybe your mechanic was referring to the later mark II. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Similar problems here, with a twist: couple of days ago, driver side bulb went off, had the dash light failure alarm, after some time bulb went on again. No flickering before it went off.Following days I kept an eye on it, the on/off happened again twice. No flickering before off. Since I have no possibility to reach my indy mechanic before mid next week in order to have it diagnosed via VCDS for ballast / ignitor issues and I do have a spare set of hid bulbs, should I try to change or wait till then? I am thinking that, since there is no flickering before going off and it comes on later, maybe there is an issue with the bulb and not the ballast / ignitor? I have to mention that the installed bulbs are not the original ones, were changed 3 years ago. In your case, did it die after flickering or there was any comeback? I don't want to get a fine for driving without driver side light on and on the other hand I don't want to risk blowing the spare bulb in case I have a faulty ballast or ignitor. Appreciate any suggestions. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

No worries. Best of luck, hope you figure it out. Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk

Doesn't happen always to trigger alarm on the BC. Example: N75 solenoid controlling the turbo vacuum line. Had it faulty, no error on the BC, terrible slow acceleration. So... Trimis de pe al meu D5803 folosind Tapatalk