Bopman

Yes, I have to admit the Yeti seems to like BP Ultimate- Not sure if it's a viscosity thing but she (Miss Yeti) seems to run best on it over all other brands, although I have a refinery 18 Km's down the road and trucks of all brands seem to come out of the same gate. I've had diesels 50% of the time, even before moving to Australia from the UK where I ran my faithful Ford Escort diesel, but these days with modern common rail injection systems, I'm not so sure that diesel cars are as forgiving in terms of fuel quality, especially with high pressure pumps and piezo injectors. I'll probably go back to petrol on the next car.

GPF intro?

Yes, my concern too!..The EGR valve was cleaned when I had the engine thermostat replaced and I do now run an additive every so often in my fuel along with regular oil changes and oil filter every 7,500 Km's. I love the car but it has had its fair share of problems, air-con compressor, haldex pump and then this which started out of the blue after I had the engine cover off locating a leak from the DSG filter O ring that started to leak after a DSG service. Obviously just a coincidence, but at the time I thought I must have disturbed something. We're thinking of trading in against a Subaru Outback AWD (non diesel) and I ignore the Skoda letters of a software upgrade for Dieselgate as I've read too many horror stories!!

Don't know who made it but the car was made in 2013 and registered in the same year. I see the same part is available from China on eBay but I chose to avoid like the plague, but who knows it might be better than the original!! If a metal insert had been incorporated in the moulding process during manufacture, I have no doubt it would have lasted longer, but like everything these days, it's all down to price! This part is not exactly cheap, although I did get some discount but the fact that it was a stocked item signifies that it is a known failure on VAG vehicles and I'd certainly advise anyone with a low temperature or slow time to reach normal to check this part first before replacing the engine thermostat as a first course of action. VCDS showed low water and oil temperature and I think as we all know, running at low engine temperature is not good with regards fuel consumption or engine wear! The DSG cooler thermostat is rated at 75 degrees from what I gather. As for Bakelite - Yes, I'm showing age here.

My Yeti had a problem with cooling, namely not getting up to temperature and although replacing the thermostat did improve the problem, it didn't entirely cure it! I even replaced the temperature sender which is shown as being a 4 wire type but in fact is a 2 wire type. It did get to the 90 degrees eventually but could take a distance of between 18 - 30 km's. Anyway, getting down to brass tacks after lots of searching and head scratching I found a couple of people who had had similar problems which turned out to be the "second" thermostat in the pipework to the DSG oil cooler, so I bit the bullet ordered one and fitted it and voila the car was finally back to its former glory! The original was like a piece of pipe with no restriction whatsoever when blowing through it. (The Bakelite from within had disintegrated on the seat to the thermostatic valve). Not good on a car that has only done 73,000 km's! The part number is 1K0121113A and took around 40 minutes all up to replace including removal of the air filter box, taking care not to damage anything when releasing the hose clips. I did loose a tiny bit of coolant and topped up using distilled water. I apologise if this has been covered already, but I feel so relieved to have got down to the problem. My local V-Dub man had never encountered the problem...Cheers Rick in Oz

Ambient temp was around 26 degrees (C) and the drive was around 35 minutes..I'll see how things go and monitor the outputs but I'm curious as to which sensor supplies the gauge?

Hi Wino - The plumbing looks quite different as can be seen here with number 2 being the G62 temperature sender on the passenger side and the radiator coolant sensor being G83 which sits behind the the diesel filter on the drivers side. G83 has 2 wires and is accessible without removing the filter, despite what the manual says, whereas G62 is a different kettle of fish. Having changed the thermostat all seems to be much better and generally the car runs at the 12 o'clock position (90 degrees) but I took a trip the other day 35km's to get fish and chips and it sat under and yet on the trip home it was at normal all the way, hence me wondering about sensors and which one controls the gauge. Ambient temperature was around 26 degrees (C) at the time and the fish and chips were excellent!

Could someone tell me please if the two coolant temperature sensors are both the same on this car?..The Elsa manual shows G62 and G83. The G83 is a 2 terminal unit, part# 06A 919 501A and the G62 is a 4 terminal unit, part# 059 919 501A and yet my Skoda dealer tells me that it only has part# 06A 919 501A listed. Well someone is wrong, but since the sensor on the left side is such a pig to get to, I can't tell!..Does anyone have any knowledge please? The car has just had a new thermostat (A 4 hour job) and although now getting up too normal temperature, it still seems to take take a while to get there and although the right hand sensor is a breeze to get to, the left one isn't!..VCDS doesn't show any problems other than it picked up a number plate bulb failure that I'd replaced 3 weeks earlier. Furthermore, I can't find any wiring diagrams in my Elsa manual, am I missing something? Cheers Rick

I'm pleased to say that I received a phone call from the dealership and Skoda have agreed to replace the pump..I now have to wait for it to arrive from Germany and they promise that it will be fitted as soon as it arrives along with replacement fluid. They also gave me a copy of the diagnostic readout confirming what my VCDS had already picked up on. You could say that I feel a little less concerned and I was impressed with 2 people at the dealership who delivered what they promised, namely keeping me in the loop!

My Haldex fault code is back! The dealership informed me that the scan was a legal document and that they couldn't let me have a copy!...Despite agreeing that the Haldex error code did exist using their scanning equipment they also informed me that I risked invalidating my warranty by doing a scan of my own using my VAG VCDS cable (Genuine Ross-Tech using 15.7.4 version, not a Chinese knock off) I haven't scanned it since the dealer reset the codes, but the car goes into the dealership again on Wednesday so I'll see what the outcome is..I can understand that they probably get owners who do performance mods to their cars, but with my 61st birthday coming up this week, I'm hardly some boy racer with brightly coloured brake calipers, vacuum gauges and blow off valves hissing at every gear change..I drive like a saint The car is just out of warranty by about 6 weeks and goes into the dealership on Tuesday 22/8/2016. I'm hoping I don't have a bun fight with the dealer on getting this rectified out of warranty although when I notified them it was within the warranty period. I've raised a report with Volkswagen Customer Care to cover my arse so watch this space.

The dealership informed me that the scan was a legal document and that they couldn't let me have a copy!...Despite agreeing that the Haldex error code did exist using their scanning equipment they also informed me that I risked invalidating my warranty by doing a scan of my own using my VAG VCDS cable (Genuine Ross-Tech using 15.7.4 version, not a Chinese knock off) I haven't scanned it since the dealer reset the codes, but the car goes into the dealership again on Wednesday so I'll see what the outcome is..I can understand that they probably get owners who do performance mods to their cars, but with my 61st birthday coming up this week, I'm hardly some boy racer with brightly coloured brake calipers, vacuum gauges and blow off valves hissing at every gear change..I drive like a saint

Hi everyone..I just purchased a Ross-Tech vcds cable and ran some tests on my Yeti and it came up with the following: Address 22: AWD Labels: 0AY-907-554-V1.clb Part No SW: 0BR 907 554 C HW: 0BR 907 554 C Component: Haldex 4Motion 3018 Coding: 0000005 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 VCID: 458121120CE8D7160D-8010 1 Fault Found: 00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181) 011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 11000000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 57 Reset counter: 48 Mileage: 3618101 km Time Indication: 4 Freeze Frame: Work Shop Code: 00768 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 000 The dealership in town here didn't want to accept my scan and did one of their own showing the same error codes (I have 3 error codes, all up!). Anyway to cut to the chase they said that they need further confirmation, reset the codes and want the car again next week. They say that Skoda won't replace the pump without definite proof of it being faulty!. Warranty expires mid July so I'm a tad worried.

AT LAST!!!...The mystery noise has gone!!!!!...It turned out to be a faulty air con compessor that finally got replaced last week after the dealer struggled to find one here in Australia. After locating one here, it was used on another vehicle so they had to get my replacement unit shipped over from Singapore. For the first time in months, I'm actually enjoying driving this car, especially after having been given the use of a VW Polo TSI for the day and a new Octavia wagon (Estate car in english) I actually rather liked the Octavia and I thought the idea of having a rear boot mat that is carpeted on one side and rubber on the other is a good idea, something I feel that should be changed on the Yeti where you have that horrid fold that gets in the way when you lower or remove the rear seats. Janette and I took the Yeti away for 2 days camping with our new roof pod on board, which after arriving home, unloading it and depositing it on our back lawn, decided to go concave on one side on a 42 degree Celsius day!!...I won't mention the brand and the manufacturers are trying to find out what went wrong! Another story perhaps, but at least the Yeti hasn't melted in the sun. :sun: I'm now using Liqui Moly TOP TECH 4200 5W - 30 in the hope that it's as good as people claim, especially in view of our extreme summer temperature's.

Some progress on the location of the noise on my Yeti..It's been into the dealership who claimed that the noise was coming from the windscreen washer pipe in the bonnet (And I've just seen a plastic pig flying past my window I thought!) I collected the car after they'd had it for 2 days and the noise started later in the evening, so out of curiosity I thought I'd take a look at what had been done and was somewhat annoyed to find that they'd taped the pipe to the inner bonnet with brown packing tape, needless to say that after removing the tape, they got a verbal serving from me this morning!! Anyway I'm close to finding the problem in that when the noise occurs, if I put the aircon on, it immediately stops!..Needless to say I notified Skoda Australia and won't be taking it back to the dealership who used the packing tape. I posted the noise >>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jzITxLyDrE Hopefully it'll be properly sorted over the next few days and I can get down to enjoying driving it...Western Australia has a total of 4 Skoda dealerships throughout.