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Hi all, Enjoying my new Octavia vRS TDI. It's only 3 months old and has around 2000 miles. In the last few weeks I've noticed the air conditioning is not functioning properly. When I have the AC on auto and it's cooling, the fans will blow cool air for around 1 minute. Then I hear a thumping noise, it sounds like it's on the passenger side of the front vehicle. The fans immediately stop blowing air, but the AC still makes noise. It's quite hard to explain, so I recorded a video so you can hear: I cut the start of the video - the AC was running for around 50 seconds before the start of the video. At 6 second mark you can hear the thump. The noise gets louder, but the fans stop blowing air. If I turn the AC off, but keep the fans on they blow air again, but it warms up as no AC. I'll likely take it in to get looked at, but just wondering if anyone has had this issue, knows a quick check/fix, or just to give some info for anyone else having a similar issue.

Resurrecting this thread to re-ask this question. I really like the features of the PID on my Citigo, but I've noticed it takes me some round-about ways of getting to a destination. My Garmin satnav had options to either choose shortest distance or fastest route. It seems like the PID is down for 'shortest distance' which often takes you around minor roads and housing estates rather than main roads etc. I've looked through menus to find this, and also did a search of the manual. Is it just not capable of switching route options?

Citigo got delivered today Was driven from Birmingham, so has already clocked up over 300 miles before I got the keys, but that's to be expected. The delivery company filled it up and it's still 1/4 full after that journey :P My previous, and first, car was 2000 Fabia, so the first thing I noticed is how bloody quiet the interior engine noise is. A few times I was wondering if I had turned the car off or stalled or something. Looking forward to getting it out and about.

Newest info is that my car will be delivered on Wednesday 14th May Had to arrange for it to be delivered to my work otherwise the delivery date would be postponed further while I took time to be at home for it coming. Not entirely sure whether it will come on a trailer or be driven. Don't know where it's coming from (leased car, so haven't dealt with dealer directly), I just hope if it is driven the driver knows about breaking the engine in (I suspect it's coming from England, while I'm in Scotland). Nevertheless, I'm super excited. Hoping it comes towards the end of my working day. Otherwise my first trip in the car will be to find a parking space at my work (a hospital, so a complete nightmare).

Ordered a new Citigo Elegance Greentech 59bhp 5door in red as a three year lease at the end of February. Last I heard from Leasing company the car was at Emden. Now I've signed and sent back all the finance documents, and I noticed that they already have a registration number and date (28/4/14) - does that mean my car is at the dealer? Also, I facepalmed a bit when I saw my new car has registration beginning BJ14 . Getting more excited now. Sold my Fabia a few weeks ago to a mechanic via eBay for spares/repair as it failed MOT and I don't have the know-how or time to fix it. So, have been without a car for a bit which makes the anticipation even greater. Can hardly wait for delivery now.

It's right here - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/312912-fuel-consumption-the-best-and-the-worst/

That means you had around 3.6 l/100km (78.7mpg). Are you sure you didn't get out and push for a lot of your journeys?

Just got a message today that my Citigo is also waiting at Edmen. Estimated to be at dealer by 30th April, but not relying on that estimate

Took my 2000 Fabia 1.4 16v for MOT today and, as expected, it failed miserably. Reasons for refusal of test certificate: • Anti-lock braking system warning lamp indicates an ABS fault • Nearside Front tyre has ply or cords exposed **dangerous** • Offisde rear tyre has ply or cords exposed **dangerous** • Offside front anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint • Front (flexi) exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases Advisories: • Offside front (inner) road wheel with a slightly distorted bead rime • Offside front suspension arm has slight play in a pin/bush • Nearside front brake fluctuating, but not excessively • Offside front brake fluctuating, but not excessively • Rear exhaust corroding I guess I'll chat about each thing. Tyres I've had two punctures in the 18 months I've owned this car. First one was on side wall so had to be replaced, second one was in tread and is currently sitting in my boot with the spare on the car. I had no idea the other tyres were so badly worn, so it seems a new set of 4 tyres are in order for the car to be roadworthy. Suspension/Drivetrain Not really sure what the 'Offside front anti-roll bar linkage has excessive play in a ball joint'. Had a search of these and other forums and it seems replacing the drop links would be the solution. In addition to what's in the MOT I'm pretty sure there are other problems with this part of the car. When turning the steering wheel at slow speeds, a distinct creaking noise is hear around the nearside front tyre - from reading online it appears this is a common symptom of a bad CV joint. Also, when the car is being driven at around 55mph, a loud, pulsating hum is heard, accompanied by vibration of the interior. This is not affected by revs (ie even when placed in neutral the noise remains) and I've been told it sounds like my wheel bearings are the problem. ABS This is the part of the car I have most issues with. The ABS light is currently on, as it was at last years MOT. However, the mechanic replaced the ABS sensor and determined that would fix it which it did. But since around 3 months ago, I've had worrying issues with the ABS. It's almost as if the ABS engages prematurely. Most commonly it happens when I've just started the car and am driving out of my street. So, slow speeds and braking gently at junction. All of a sudden the brakes grind and feel crunchy (as ABS does when it engages). It continues to happen for a few minutes, making breaking effectively useless at any normal speed, until the ABS light comes on and ABS is turned off. After a few days the light goes off and it will function fine for a while until suddenly it will occur again - ABS engaging at slow speed until light comes on and ABS is turned off. It has happened around 5 or 6 times. The last time it happened was a few days ago, but the car had another worrying and dangerous symptom this time. The breaks were acting crunchy/grinding noise but also the engine was revving itself. i.e. if I put it into neutral it would rev as if I had my foot on the acceleration pedal pressing on and off. If I put the car into a gear, it would continue to attempt to rev, thus speeding the car up/slowing it down as it pulsed - my feet not on any pedals. Again, once the ABS light turned on, things returned to normal. I have absolutely no idea what is going on to cause this, nor how it should be fixed. Any ideas would be helpful. Exhaust I had no idea there was a major leak in the front exhaust. I was surprised though, that the car passed emissions test as this was the bit I was sure it would fail. Engine light has been on for ages with fault codes indicating O2 sensor in bank 1 sensor 1 wasn't working. Other symptoms were there too - engine slow to respond to pressing accelerator, very poor mpg. I had bought an O2 sensor with the intention of replacing it, but found it nigh-on impossible to remove because of its awkward position. Alas, I'm left with an unroadworthy car and not really sure what to do with it. For added woe - the driver electric window is gubbed and currently held up by cardboard wedged between door and window. I've already bought the part to fix this (motor is fine, just the wire is broke) but never got round to doing it because of rivets in the inside door frame. I've ordered a Skoda Citigo, which is due to be delivered some point between end of april and mid-may. The idea was to get the Fabia through the MOT and sell it, or not get it through and scrap it. The MOT place I took it to does tests only, so not got any quotes on how much it would be to get the car up to scratch to pass the MOT. Not having a car for a month or two isn't the end of the world - getting the bus to work, getting a few taxis, online grocery shopping - just a pain in the butt. What do you guys think - should I get the problems fixed and sell the car (this also means I get to have a car between now and Citigo); put the car up for sale as 'spares or repair' (listing all the problems, of course, and that buyer would need to use trailer); or scrap the car. Shame about the car really. It was my first car and I've enjoyed doing what I can do with my limited mechanical skills. Looking forward to the Citigo of course, but need to figure out what to do with Fabia.

It's going to be hard to explain an issue when it's a noise that's the only culprit, but I'll give it a go. Basically, my car (skoda fabia mk1 1.4 16v elegance) started to growl at me a couple of weeks ago and has consistently done so since. When I say growl, I mean it is a low, deep noise. It is not rattling anything like that, it sounds similar to the car revving normally except much lower in pitch. The main thing that confuses me is that it is not related to revs nor acceleration. The sound doesn't start until around 30mph, and it gets louder/increases slightly in pitch around 45 mph. When I say it doesn't get affected by revvs or acceleration I mean that I can put the car into neutral and it will continue to make the noise. If I'm going down a hill in neutral then the noise will get louder/increase in pitch as the speed increases. After around 45mph the sound seems to die down a bit - either that ore the normal engine noise drowns it is. And yes, the normal engine noise remains. I can also sort of feel the growling, mostly on the clutch pedal. I can feel the vibrations matching the noise of the growl on my left foot, and also a little on the steering when it gets loudish. I'll also say that it sounds louder from within the car. That is, if you open the windows the sound gets drowned out by wind/engine noise. It's when the windows are closed that you hear the sound loudest from the interior. I have no idea what this sound is coming from or whether it means there is a problem. The car seems to run fine (I've been having issues with egr 'insufficient flow' and the car is starting to consume a lot of oil - but I've been trying to help those by cleaning egr/throttle control). Any ideas on what the cause is? I believe there is a small hole in the exhaust that came up on the last MOT as an advisory. Don't know if that relates to it. Appreciate your help, guys.

Thanks for the advice, Wino I just finished working on it today. I cleaned out the air filter box as much as I could first. I also cleaned up the throttle body and the intake manifold. I did as you suggested - just leaving it attached to eletrics so no need to adapt which is good as I'm not sure how reliable my cheapo VAG-com cable is. I got the majority of the carbon off, so now it actually looks silver rather than black throughout. The little valve thing that protrudes from the intake manifold (no clue what it is called) was filled with carbon that I scraped out with a thin hex key. I attempted to remove the egr valve, but promptly gave up. I found a ratchet that fit into the nooks and crannies, but none of the bolts budged a millimeter. I also wasn't 100% sure which bolts I was to loosen. The main one I could see was a normal six sided bolt. The other two I could see required a 6mm hex key. None of them loosened so I just gave up. I also had another look for the crankcase breather but when I follow the hose down into the black block thats as far as I can see. I don't see any bolts at all from above. Has anyone had success removing this block from this engine without going underneath the car? Well, I'm happy at least that the throttle body is clean along with the intake manifold. Let's see if that stops the pesky egr problems. As for excessive oil consumption, I guess I'll just monitor it and hope that if its something more serious like worn piston rings that the engine will last a little longer.

I just wanted to say I'll be watching this thread too. I had the exact same thing happen to me a few weeks back. Lowered the driver side mirror and heard a horrible crunch. Window wouldn't budge up or down by pulling it. Took off the panel to reveal a tangle of wires which I untangled and was able to lift the window back up. Noticed the rivets and had to stop there so I can't replace the window regulator with a new one. For the past few weeks I've just had cardboard wedged down the glass to hold it up and it jutters down as I drive - not ideal to say the least. Like you, I could drill out the rivets but don't want to risk not being able to get the panel back on. Ideas would be much appreciated. It seems like a fairly straightforward task otherwise!

Hello! I've been using this forum quite a bit since I purchased my 2000 Fabia at the end of last year, it's always been super helpful, but finally need to post my own question. Before I start I should mention I am a complete newbie - but an enthusiastic one! I've been having issues with EGR valve giving CEL. I've taken it to a garage twice, the first time the guy cleaned the valve, the second (another garage) he suggested it be replaced. I had a look for as much info as I could and found this definitely isn't a rare occurrence on this engine (my engine is the AUB). I am going to attempt to clean out the various parts that I've read to be particularly associate with causing these problems, namely the EGR valve and the throttle body and inlet manifold. Furthermore, I've been noticing really high oil consumption - I have to top up with oil after several days of light use (most of my journeys are mostly short). I use 10w40 synthetic oil. I've read that cleaning the crankcase breather can help reduce oil consumption if a block is causing the excessive consumption, so I'm looking into cleaning that too. I've searched this forum extensively, and found all the info I know through these (until yesterday, I had no idea what a throttle body is, and even struggled getting the engine cover off). But I need a few more personalised to my situation tips I think. I made a start on it tonight - I gave the battery a good clean first as there was sticky white gunk all over the terminals. When I removed the engine cover and took off the attached air filter I noticed there is oil coating the pipes there - is this normal? Even the air filter fins were a bit black on the first inch or so. Is it okay to clean these pipes to get rid of this grease/oil. I located the the crankcase breather hose behind the dipstick and it seemed pretty clean to me - some grease, but no white 'mayo'. My problem is getting to the block to clean it out - it seems virtually unreachable from above. I can see where the hose attaches onto, but I can't even see any bolts when looking down there. It's a similar story with the EGR valve - I can't reach in there to get at the nuts. What tool(s) do you guys recommend for getting into these tight/awkward spaces? As I said, I'm a newbie, so I only have basic screwdrivers/hex keys for general use - nothing motor specific. I successfully removed the throttle body and it's pretty gross in there so will clean it out thoroughly. I notice, however, the wiring connecting the throttle body and egr valve. I understand removing this will mean it requires adapting when reinstalled and I have vag-com to do this. But I wanted to ask when I remove the multiplug, can I soak the whole throttle body unit to clean? It seems like there's still eletronics inside it. Also with the throttle body - the butterfly valve on mine is really stiff - I gently prodded it and couldn't move it at all with all the carbon/crap. Is it supposed to be stiff on these electric valves? I've seen videos of people cleaning the valve and it seems to move freely, but not sure if they were mechanical or eletrical. Finally, I guess, what do you guys recommend to clean? I wanted to try soaking/flushing the crankcase breather block, egr valve and throttle body. The majority of cleaners I see though are aerosols. What can be used to soak these components in or should I just stick with aerosols? I believe that's all for now - sorry about the long post and many questions. I understand the general idea of what I need to do, it's mostly the specific things like is there electronics inside that make it not suitable for cleaning; what tools can I use to actually remove these components etc. Thanks for the help in advance, guys.