Hypons, it's easy to remove the air box to replace the filter, simply pull it up off the mountings (take note of where they are for easy refitting), remove the breather pipe & give it a wiggle until you get it out. Then you can open it up to replace the air filter, with a cone filter it does sound good with a slightly better throttle response but, no noticeable power increase.
They covered it on the VW Up! forums where I first found the guide - I thought you had to remove the trim around the windscreen as well!
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