KillerShark1978

the front subframe is made up of 3 parts the central part, then 2x alloy console arms on the end, since the wishbone connects directly to the alloy arms you can replace ether of the alloy arms separately without the need to replace the entire subframe. This must be a common problem, when I did the suspension on my car I faced the same problem, I managed to get them free in the end but not without shredding the threads inside the arms, same on both side, ended up need to replace both console arms, but still a much cheaper option than replacing the entire subframe. You could also same money on used parts by knowing that these console arms are exactly the same on the VW polo as they are on the VRS even though the sub frame central part is different, new these things are around £75 each, and that's cheap as you will find http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-SKODA-FABIA-ROOMSTER-POLO-IBIZA-subframe-and-wishbone-6Q0199293D-6Q0199294D-/221295143555?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338637ea83 but I managed to pick up a complete subframe from a 2003 1.4 Polo for £40, even though the subframe its self was useless to to me the console arms where the same, when looking at different models use part numbers to verify 6Q0199293D / 6Q0199294D is what you need one near ther is far side, not sure which is which you will have to check to see assuming you only need one of them.

Transmission or Gear Box OIl? Inner CV joint maybe?

only thing worth considering is if you want one with a single mass flywheel (SMF) or not, your looking at paying at least £250 for something budget or £400 for something branded like Helix if you do. Else £90 to £150 on a new clutch would be just fine for something Original Manufacture Quality.

If its both lights then could be the Brake Light switch under the dash, simple easy job to get done too if it is, only around £5 for the part and should take 10 mins to fit

Your wrong about the fitting requireing more work with the Seat FMIC, if anything it would be much easier to fit, when you consider you can get the entire kit pipes included for around £550, its a much cheaper option. Anything with the Name "Forge" is just a rip off to be fair.

plasti dip I think, however is one option better than the other, I know its a spray on solution that's applied over the original paintwork and apparently if nothing else helps to reserve the original paintwork, at least as far as the main bodywork goes, the carbon fibre bonnet would be applied differently in the form of a roll sheet stretched over the bonnet and cut to shape round the edges. The bonnet alone cost around £120 so its really cheep considering its affect against respraying the entire body panel, and £1000 to spray cover the entire car is unbelievable value against a full colour change body respray, so it concerns me that this cheep option will not end up looking as good or be as maintainable when washing / driving etc in the long term as you would get from a body shop with a full respray, hence will it be just £1000 flushed down the toilet a year or so from now if I take this option?

Have been looking into prices of a full respray since am now moving onto the final stage of my little project, which is full body kit and colour change. Am at least having the bonnet dipped in carbon fibre, but after a little research on this Dipping is starting to look like a cheep and effective alternative to respraying the entire car, looking at costs after purchasing the kit I want, fitting and full colour change respray adds up to around £2500 no more than £3000, where as Dipping would cost under £1000 and that includes the bonnet which is getting dipped anyway. Am failing to see the downside to Dipping over a respray, the only concern I really have about it is with it been classed as "temporary colour change" since the overlay can be removed and returned to its original paintwork, how robust is the job going to be done over the entire car? the questions I really have are, 1. Will you be able to tell the difference after dipping from a real paint job? 2. How long can I expect the effects to last, will is start fading or pealing away after a year or so, or will it be less able to withstand normal road use chips etc over prolonged periods. and just concerned that if I have it dipped I will be back a year or so later wishing I had it resprayed in the first place, can anyone offer any advise.

Depends what you want out of your mods, More BHP - Speed, Better Handling, Style? If you want power then Remap intake + exhaust system maybe worth looking into, Handling then go for new bushes front and rear + RARB, Brake upgrades are worth looking into (I have the callipers of the octavia Vrs on my Fabia), Even Drilled or Grooved Discs with some quality pads maybe a wise option. Styling them colour coding, tinted windows, some kind of splitter on the front bumper, body kits (not so cheep sprayed and fitted), better sound system maybe, I guess whatever takes your liking. Personally I would have a remap stuck right on the top of that list. Edit: Oh ****, just noticed its a 1.4 Comfort and you want to mod it up? Maybe your gandma will want to buy it off you and then go find yourself a VRS

SOLD

Am in need of a little help here with identifying the name of a part. The Front Sub Frame is made up of 3 parts, the central part then 2x aluminium "joints" on each end where the wishbone bolts onto, what are the aluminium "joints" called?

Have knocked £20 off the asking price for all options both delivered and on collection, hoping for a quick sale, these are New Disc's and Pad, would not even fit my car due to a calliper upgrade I inherited and knew nothing about so every bit as good as you would get spending full retail price as per the links provided.

Could easily find out from your local dealer, and it it does need a gasket your almost certainly going to have to get it from the dealers anyway. Odds are that any place you pay to fit it would just use the old gasket or there own sealant, nether is really a problem so I would just hand it over, changing it yourself would be easy but a very very messy job

am suprised these are still here, maybe people are only intrested in the cheapest breaks they can get there hands on and don't buy quality who knows.

still availible

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Considering I do just under 12K a year and proved over the last year I only need to by one 5 litre bottle of oil for one full change and use what's left over for one top up per year, I can't see the point of using cheep oil. I use Mobil 1 5W30 with a VW approved rating of up to 507.00, exceeding the min requirements of my car, did 11.5K last year with zero problems averaging between 45 to 50 MPG per full tank, was more than happy to spend another £50 and use the same again this year.

If your looking for a deal on some uprated Discs and Pad I have these for sale maybe worth checking out http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/322404-new-brembo-max-front-discs-and-quality-brembo-pads-mk1-fabia-vrs/

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are you using upper coil spring mounts? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171099844747?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Personally I use Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. It Exceeds the min 505 01 requirements and is suitable up to 507 00 (from 504 00) I just did 11.5K over the last year on this oil with zero problems, I believe I did a minor top up once using what was left over from the the same 5 litre bottle I used originally to do the full change, so 1x 5 litre bottle is good for at least 10K worth of motoring, was consistently averaging around 45 to 50 MPG each full tank of fuel all year long on a remapped engine, just changed oil again yesterday and to stuck the same brand 100% convinced this is the best choice for my 2004 Fabia VRS (ASZ)

easier to fit a stud and then just use a nut over the top, and just as effective

its not an important bolt, like Hutchsrs50 says it just holds the turbo intake pipe in place so its harly worth tapping and defenitly not worth getting a new intake manifold over only an idiot would do that, it woudl be worth having a stud secured intot he manifold and then replacing the bolt with just a nut that fits on the stud you could fit before you replace the entire manifold. Personally I would not bother with any of that **** and just stick some plastic electrical tape round the bolt you have then bolt it back in for an easy and effective solution.

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First initial thought for me was the front wishbone rear bushes, if you do end up needing new bushes then replace both sides with poly bushes the rubber standard ones are useless.

Have found these but not sure what size I would need, can anyone help? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Alloy-Hose-Blanking-Plug-Bung-BOV-Dump-Valve-/200984021889?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&var=&hash=item2ecb94cb81