Picko98

Can I use vcds lite or need the full version ? Thanks

So after 2 years standing I decided to get the fabia back on the road So I fitted the 312mm/256mm big breaks to it and bled the system including clutch selecting gears is so much smoother than it was before took it down the road for a test run the pulling to the left that was present 2 years ago has improved 3 fold, so the hours I spent changing and checking things was all because of the breaks. However stopping is not so good I read through very single post I can find but nothing with the issue I have. Firstly applying the breaks was very stiff so I checked the vaccum and lines rectified a tiny split in the vaccum pipe and new jubilee clip on tandem pump this made things better bit something is not quite right When I pump the pedal until hard and hold, start the car the pedal goes near on to the floor and I can't figure out why I've bled it 3 times now old fashioned way and easy bleed Can Anyone help it's driving me mad thanks

I'm in the middle of buying some Herts components a little over your price @ 135 but have very good reviews I am also running an amp to power them at 80w rms

Was wondering about the carpet myself and came across this thread How does it sound with it tucked up in the corner ? I was going to use my original boot carpet but it's not big enough for what i need I've got black sides and Base carpet in the boot rather than the grey/black stuff Will keep looking but I don't know what it's called Amy idea ? Tried a few different searches but nothing came of it

Get some pictures of the finished article You going for something a bit different or just black cloth

Did you end up doing your boot build hutchy?

http://caraudiosecurity.com/hertz-dsk170-3-dieci-series-17cm-component-speakers http://caraudiosecurity.com/spg-17cs-17cm-components http://caraudiosecurity.com/esk-f165-5-energy-line-16-5cm-6-5-slim-fit-component-speakers These are the ones I'm choosing between what do you all think ?

Yes the impedance is 4 ohm at 80w bridged so should I get something that is as close as possible around 70 - 90w as I imagine underpowered speakers won't be too good either Thanks sam

Remove strut from hub assembly remove drop link and then remove the 3 nuts under the bonnet shock should drop out crack the top nut don't remove either use spring compressors (widow makers) or wind you adjusters down until it's not touching the top mount remember to count the exact turns so it goes back to the same place on refit Remove the top nut, remove top mount then fit new one and reassemble Tracking probably wouldn't a bad idea if you need to remove the bottom ball joint or track rod end to get the strut out of the hub but if it slides out nicely (unlikley) and your coil overs are returned to the right place I wouldn't bother

I do have a old Sony amp xm444 4 channel amp Which will output 80 rms when bridged to two channels do I need to match the speakers to this or just get as close as possible ?

There is also one in the for sale section if jars is too far from you. You will just have to check it's still available

Yes they will fit directly in to existing with the new adaptors in the picture and the connector housing should be the same for the original wiring loom I don't know how they will perform with the tweeter being so low down in the door also it only states the peak power not constant (rms) so you may be under powering them running from the h/u If you do get these you may want to disconnect the tweeter in the top part of the door as these have one built in Someone with better knowledge maybe along with better info than I can give Hope it helps anyway

I did read through your topic duck thanks And my head unit states it's 4x50w will this mean 50w peak power ? And can't remember who posted it but it was recommended between 100-150 rms for the front components I personally thought that was high but I don't know much about ICE just enjoy the music Thanks sepulchrave

I have posted this in ICE section but had no luck Been looking through other topics over the last few days and I currently have the whole interior out of the car including door cards Was thinking about upgrading front components I know the sizes which I need however I just don't know which to choose there is that many Going down the amped with crossovers and speakers in oem places Can anyone shed some light on a good set even a kit What kind of rms should I be looking at ? Should I put a setup together my self or buy as a full kit with everything I need Looked at a rainbow kit but stated that amp output was only 30w rms which seemed a bit crap I don't want to spend too much and don't need the best that can be bought I don't know how much should be spent to get a decent set up either Thanks sam

Been looking through other topics over the last few days and I currently have the whole interior out of the car including door cards Was thinking about upgrading front components I know the sizes which I need however I just don't know which to choose there is that many Going down the amped with crossovers and speakers in oem places Can anyone shed some light on a good set even a kit What kind of rms should I be looking at ? Should I put a setup together my self or buy as a full kit with everything I need Looked at a rainbow kit but stated that amp output was only 30w rms which seemed a bit crap I don't want to spend too much and don't need the best that can be bought I don't know how much should be spent to get a decent set up either

Go to kwik fit and have a 4 wheel alignment check I think it is free for the initial check (it used to be ) and get the printout look at the rear end and see how far out it is you may want to fit rear caster/camber shims to true them so they are exactly the same as each other. front wheel drive vehicles have toe in on the rear to help over steering this maybe your problem I have the same problem with mine just not the time or money to fix Hope this helps

Thought so I just did the zip tie method but with steel tie wire as couldnt get a zip tie on the lower intercooler housing

I had exactly the same fault code thurday night last week before heading for cormwall friday Also did this on my vrs last Friday Mr muscle FTW !! Stripped the egr and pipe off the turbo removed the air box and boost pipe to get enough room did this on Thursday Got the Mr muscle Friday got home from work squirter it in pumped the actuator until smooth put back together packed the car for Cornwall from stafford pumped it a bit more had a shower then pumped it a bit more so around 2 hours in total then left no problems what so ever no limp mode for 600 miles Put it through rev ranges in all gears Extremely happy with the result as new turbo and no holiday would have beem a slight bummer Just to add to success rate of the Mr muscle fix If anyone has the same issues

Will this not put swarf into the intercooler pipework and on boost move it to the inlet then up and dowe bores and maybe if lucky out the exhaust ?

But they are for stock springs and need an internal spring size of 80mm Not all coilovers will be that size however if you are friendly with an engineering firm they could knock you up some spacers for material money and a few beers Seen these a while ago

Avs car parts genuine brand new silver one (they are all the same btw) no sur chare and no return of you old caliper around 60 quid

If your still thinking about a kkl cable I bought this exact one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B001C1MNTM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And used it the other day to clear airbag after steering wheel change and do one click unlock Had no problems just set up the com port properly there is a recent thread somewhere and if you have only got windows 8 it will work just let the laptop find the drivers

Yes that would be the normal procedure as I don't stop from 60 using my hand brake only use when parked up the cables don't seem stretched they are stretchy and it adjusts up properly

Got the steering wheel buffed up yesterday with a magic pad thing taken the shine off looks and feels much better not so slippy now And the 3 spoke looks much better than that standard one

What are the anti moo dampers? And regarding the handbrake mine is crap as in the cables just keep stretching and won't lock the wheel up at all And I think I'm gonna get brand new units as can't be bothered with stripping down rebuilding and cleaning and painting