matthewg

The back door thing happened me and it was the loom in the drivers door. Once that was fixed the back door worked perfectly

Yes Silver, I was told this a few months AFTER getting the EGR blanked out and remapped. Didn’t kill it that quickly, or maybe it did and the car just didn’t cop that this was the issue. My car is the last of the 1.9 Tdi greenline from 2010. Next engines were the 1.6 or 2.0

So I went back to the place that down the remap(who are also the folk that removed the EGR and remapped the car over a year ago) and the car is like brand new. They said they changed some sensors but basically the car was still in limp mode. They didn't charge me for whatever they done but I suspect the remapping for the DPF had a glitch in it and when they remapped it again, everything cleared itself up(that's my guess) Anyways, I have no idea what has solved the issue I had but it's sorted.YAY

When I go back to the guys who remapped it, I'll ask them to do this. Although it hasn't gone into limp mode since the dpf was removed

Cheers for the reply Chimaera. I'll get the harness looked at tomorrow. We have looked at the Ross-tech Wiki and checked and changed everything they list The guys that done the tuning are supposed to be quite good at DPF & EGR removal. But I can get it checked out by someone else

Hey folks, looking for some help on an issue in my Superb 2010 1.9 TDi with 234,000 miles on the clock. Last year I had the turbo replaced but ever since I had an intermittent issue where if I let the revs go too high in 3rd or 4th the coil light would flash and I would lose power, but switching it off and on again and it was gone. As I said it was intermittent and I became all too aware of when it might happen and would just change gear. However it start happening in the mornings and I would also lose power on inclines too. Reluctantly, the mechanic replaced the turbo again, and over the past month we have replaced the DPF sensor, the vacuum pump sensor, done 2 smoke tests, cleaned all the vacuum pipes, one injector was replaced and the rings on all the others were replaced, the glow plugs have also been changed as they showed an error, the boost pressure sensor was replaced, seals on the pipes were replaced, The EGR has been mapped out too but the dpf is still there. The head gasket was also done a couple of months ago. The Error code it shows up is always P0299 but we have ruled out all the parts that are associated with the turbo, bar the engine itself. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated as I have 3 mechanics baffled as to what's wrong with the car and it's starting to really annoy me. AS OF LAST WEEK DPF clogged up finally last week so I got it removed and mapped out. It still felt like **** on the way home so went back the next day. Over the next two days we replaced the tandem pump and all injectors. The car now cuts out, usually when I am slowing or stopping, and it takes 30-60 to restart. The garage put my tandem pump back in and today I have replaced the fuel pump in the tank and guess what???? It still flipping cuts out. ARGH Since the remap the cruise control no longer works Has anyone ever heard of similar issues

It's most likely broken cables in the drivers door, between the door and the body of the car, in that plastic cover.

No problem Dfsuperb. Yes the boot door stopped opening from the door, I had to use the key all the time and only the saloon door would open. I never had the rear window not work (that I noticed) Yes it's fixed now with no issues. I fixed it myself, there is plenty of space to play with these wires. In regards to connecting the wires, I just ran one to the other. I cannot remember which way I did it

The reverse light was one of my first issues with the whole boot door. Initially I ran a cable from one to the other and it worked fine. I would say that some of your cables are broken. AFAIK, all the cables that provide power to the stuff in the boot door all come through the same point in the car. I've never seem a wiring diagram, just pictures that people have posted on here of the cables.

I brought my car to an auto electrician and he sorted them out as there just isn't enough room for to fix it. I still have issues to this day. Airbag light on constantly. Will have to sort it before my next NCT (MOT)

It was on the drivers door. The wires that run from the body of the car to the door, covered in the flexible plastic. Hope this helps

I have found during my 90k miles driving the car that when in the city traffic if the car is in a high gear, it is telling me to drop down one gear. If I ignore this my DPF light will surely come on forcing me to do a drive up the motorway in 4th gear with the revs above 1800

It's broken wires in the drivers door. Causes all sorts of issues with the rear drivers door

I had a similar problem without the DPF light being on. Turned out to be the turbo. Get the codes read as it could be any number of issues

I bought this for my wheel as it was showing signs of wear and tear. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/353756-steering-wheel-cover/#entry4236581 Fiddly to fit but does the job.

I've heard of 4th gear at 1800 to 2500 revs for the dpf but never heard this for the turbo. How long would you give a turbo to settle back in

Does anyone know how to remove the B pillar trim? I appear to have a stain in the head cloth above this trim and just don't want to yank the trim off what with the airbag behind it. Does the piece of plastic with "airbag" on it just pry off and a screw possibly behind it. Thanks in advance.

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I too just had this issue, fault code P0229. It said turbo actuator. Just got the turbo replaced. Apparently it comes with the manifold and are not too common over here in the emerald isle. 2010 1.9l Greenline with 156k on he clock

Thanks for the input lads. SIMBO:: The cars a taxi so €26 compared to about €130 including postage and all that hard work of taking the steering wheel out I couldn't be bothered with to be honest. Thanks though

The steering wheel in my 2010 registered yoke is starting to show signs of wear and tear and with just over 150,000 miles on the clock I'm not surprused. Was looking into get a decent cover for it and seen this on fleabay. Any thoughts?? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/161362368819?redirect=mobile

I've had the bulb gone light for near 8 months so I've grown used to it

I just replaced the vanity mirror bulbs with these bulbs, damn their bright up there. Has anyone replaced any other interior lights with LEDs. In my 60 reg they are all W5W( small sidelight bulbs) and I think a total of 13 bulbs would be required, including the puddle lights on the door

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I ordered these, on the pretense they would be "Error Free" but on a 60 and a 13 it threw up errors. I ordered three sets, will I try all the others before I go back to the seller??