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ConanBarbarian

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    MK2 Octavia vRS

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  1. Just a few days ago a warning pop-ed up on the dash and one of the low beams went out. After turning lights completely off and back on again, everything went back to normal but I noticed later that the failing side had a slight red glow to it. Every since this happened, these symptoms keep coming back. Is this enough information to diagnose a dead bulb vs ballast? (p.s. I am aware of swapping the bulbs to find out for sure.)
  2. High compression ratio (10.5:1) + boost = lots of torque.
  3. Where did you obtain recommended R16 tyre pressures for the vRS? My fuel flap only has readings for R17 an R18. Also what's your take on Skoda suggesting more air in the rear (or less in the front, depending on how you put it)? Do you agree with the idea that a front heavy car should have more pressure in the front (compared to rear) tyres? I assume you don't based on your 'I run 36psi all round' statement
  4. What I find strange is that Skoda actually recommends less PSI in the rear than the front for the mk1 Superb (but higher overall pressures). The mk2 is a little different story though. (http://www.puretyre.co.uk/skoda-tyre-pressures/) It's not my first car but all previous ones (front engine, FWD and 4WD) had lower pressure for the rear tyres suggested by the factory.
  5. I did some searching but was unable to find an explanation for dealer recommended rear tyre pressure being higher than the front. Why would Skoda suggest to put 2 PSI more (light load) in the rear when almost 70% of the weight of the car is on the front axle? Should it help against saw-toothing? The car is a MY07 (v)RS hatch.
  6. All being said, a 4WD conversion would be the most effective
  7. Sorry for highjacking this thread, but does it work with rev D (plastic) valves?
  8. Are you referring to LHD conversion? Octavia is a fairly easy job in this case.
  9. What's a fuel nozzle? Are you referring to the injector itself? Also, there's only one intake manifold on the engine so I am a little confused about it being open... I'm having some problems of my own - sometimes (like 1 in 100 tries) when starting a cold engine it would rev for a split second and die (would start normally afterwards). Also, warm engine idle (just after starting) feels funny most of the time. The dealer is clueless (guess it doesn't depend on the country) but one independent mechanic is suggesting to take apart the fuel pump sender and inspect it for dirt causing fuel starvation during start-up. I am getting to error codes though.
  10. I like the CF cover by Neuspeed but I must be the only one on this forum
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