benh78

Hi All My Haldex diff on my Octy estate 4x4 has play in the drivers side drive shaft not the drive shaft the play is on the diff - up and down movement may be making the annoying clinking noise over bumps. If I get a 2nd hand haldex diff assembly can it be off any audi s3 or 4 motion gold as long as it's gen 1? Do I still have to use my haldex controller or if the diff comes with a controller should I use that? Or is it more economical to get the diff repaired could just be a bearing? If yes can anyone recommend a garage in the Crewe area? Thanks Ben

Yes feels so much better the wrong springs gave up a little bit about halfway through a corner at any decent speed giving a little twitch car still behaved well but didn't inspire confidence

Great advice as always I'll assume it's my cheap lead as its all working as it should I'll leave it for now but I'll check the cabling / connector on the haldex. I think those who have ordered the hpa kit have figured out they are beta tester but it'll be an interesting piece of kit if it ever ships in volume and works as described.

Usually it's the lock module in the door one way of testing is open each door in turn and look at the dash and see if the door is showing as open on all of my doors where the module has gone faulty the car doesn't know when the door is open. For the money I would be inclined to change the door module anyway if they fail completely it's a real pain because you can't open the door you have to take as many screws out of the door card off and then force it of and then destroy the module to open the door. If you do the door module my tip is try it without the door card on if you've not go something right it's easier to get the door open again. There is a good mk4 golf guide how to which is the same for the octavia

Scanning my ovtavia estate 4x4 with vag.com it's got a fault on the awd section for haldex saying internal memory module fault which I can't clear as vag.com can't communicate with the module. Searching the web the only way to resolve the fault is to change the haldex controller. Thanks to all the wintry weather I know the 4wd is working so is there any urgent reason for swapping the haldex? Ideally I wanted to swap for a performance controller like the blue but they are rare and go for money out of my budget. If they ever ship I might try a standard controller with the new hpa Motorsport haldex control module that lets you change a standard controller to blue performance etc via a touch screen although still pretty expensive.

I'm cursed with steering racks my refurb rack had a massive failure and the whole system drained out in about 30 secs killing the pump in the process. Anyway moved to another supplier found the Bristol one and they supplied a gold mk4 4 motion rack which seems to be correct its a bit noisier than my previous rack even with a new pump but hopefully it will last. So for an Octavia 4x4 it is the golf mk4 4 motion rack.

Just to add got the correct springs from a Skoda dealer and the back end is back at the correct height and finally I can tow again what a pain but it turned out the springs that were on when unsought it were not the correct set either and that confused the garage as the correct springs didn't match the ones on it so they sent them back and out the wrong springs on it.

I had to have my rack replaced on my 4x4 and on the 1st attempt the wrong one was put on. It worked fine and was much much lighter than the original but with any left lock (think it was left) there was rattle on hard acceleration turns out it was the exhaust heat shields catching the rack. Anyway I had it swapped for the right one tried the wrong one on eBay no takers if you want it you can have it as I have no real idea what it's actually off but it was a new refurb I used it for approx 5000 miles it's near whitchurch Shropshire. Only other thing was it was quite close to the propshaft but it did clear

Thanks does anyone have a link they could put up for the right springs for the estate 4x4 not worried about being cheapest would rather pay more and them be right Just so I can tie down the garage there isn't a heavy duty option? Would they have been able to fix the hatchback springs? This forum is great it's helped me with so many things on my 4x4 Octy anti roll bar upgrade, brake upgrade, door locks hid upgrade (oem with projectors - I know its a prickly subject[emoji1]), electric leather reccaro audi s3 seat upgrade all made easy.

Thanks old springs are long gone as this was done in July before a holiday and then works been a bit crazy. Garage just asked me to do some research and they were going to speak to their supplier but no ideas what type if springs were fitted. Maybe I'll just get some from my local dealer and compare. Good point about having the hatchback springs

Local garage changed the rear springs on my 51 plate octavia 1 estate 4x4 1.8t as one spring had broken. Rear is now lower than front and if I add any weight or trailer the rear drops even lower to the point of being unusable. Didn't do this on the other springs in short it was better with one broken spring. Can anyone recommend a supplier for these springs? Is it possible to fit the wrong springs e.g non 4wd? Is it possible the car had heavier duty springs on? Thanks

Found this on a quick The fan test in Andymacs first post in this thread is sufficient to identify the low speed problem, I have had several requests for further fault finding details to establish if any other fan related faults are present. First the fans themselves. Disconnect the fan connector and measure, with a multimeter, the resistance between the red/white wire and the brown wire, it should be a value less than 10ohms, a much higher value indicates a burnt out internal resistor. Next measure the resistance between the red/black wire and the brown wire it should also be a value less than 10 ohms, a much higher value indicates a burnt out fan. Next the fan controller, fuses etc. The test detailed is taken from the VW repair manual for the V5. Caution keep hands etc away from the fans during this test as they are expected to run: Reconnect both fan connectors, if still disconnected, and disconnect the 3 pin connector from the radiator fan thermo switch. Bridge contact 1 and contact 2 with a short piece of wire, the fans should run at low speed. Switch on ignition, bridge contact 2 and contact 3 with a short piece of wire, the fans should run at high speed. Switch off ignition, reconnect thermo switch connector. To identify the connector pin numbers, hold the connector facing you with connector latching mechanism at 2 o'clock, pin1 is then at 12 o'clock, pin 2 at 4 o'clock and pin 3 at 8 o'clock.

What I did for both fans is disconnect the plug there are 3 pins and somewhere on the mkiv forum there is a how to connect the negative to one pin and then positive to another and you can prove whether both speeds are working. Most likely you will need a new fan or the resistor mod. I found I could replace the fans just by undoing the 3 bolts that hold it into the radiator and lift them out took 10 mins per fan going slow. If air con still doesn't work but you've got the fans working I.e both running at slow speed then swap the fan control module anyway. If not working could be compressor clutch or pressure switch in air con system - good luck

Thanks snow_muncher. I don't have the green plug maybe the black is for one heater element I'll do some more searching

Seats are in and working big improvement on originals. I'm still stuck on the black plug with the brown and born/blur wire. Is it a heating elment what else do I need to connect?

Check breather hoses I had a split in one from the inlet manifold sent the fuel trims out enough to out on the engine warning light.

Hi when it's set for air con both fans should be running at low speed do you have the climtronic control? When I was researching mine people had wired 12v direct onto the aircon clutch to prove that was working. As for the fans each has 2 circuits high and low speed hence the 3 wires to each fan you can test both fans and both speed settings with a bit of wire I'll try and find a link to the guide. I just changed the fan control module on all my cars anyway it's under the battery as they are cheap 2nd hand on ebay

That would be cool but reading round heater element on these seats is a green plug with 4 connectors?

On both of mine aircon didn't work until fans and fan controller module worked.

Got some s3 seats fitted the rear today and front passenger seat wired up the airbag all ok. To get the seat to move I think I connect a Live and earth to the red plug. What is the black plug with a brown and brown blue wire for?

2nd the rivet issue happened on my golf would occasionally put it into limp home mode drilled out rivets replaced with bolts didn't get the fault code again on 80,000 miles of driving

Check your radiator fans when on aircon both should come on low speed if they don't that's your problem very common fault you can either do the resistor mod or fit new fans you may also want to change the fan control module under the battery v cheap in eBay. Search mkiv forum there is an excellent write up on how to test both fan speeds to see where the fault lies. Was what stopped my aircon workings on 2 Octavias and golf mkiv

Hi did find your project on the forum with the seat and plug pics great write up. Will be trying it for myself in a few days.

Many thanks for that have ordered some s3 seats so will give it a go. Was surprised the cigarette lighter has enough waft to power the seats did you just t it off the power lead?

Thanks I'm south in Crewe so might be a bit if a trek. Has anyone managed to connect recaro front airbags didn't show as a fault?