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That looks like it would work, try it

The felicia is simply not designed for people of lenght. The seats backrest are too short for me making it a bit awkward of a seating position.

Had the same issue with my calipers, ended up drilling out the slide pins and replacing them.

Compression test: 12.5, 11.9, 12.0, 11.4 Bar Not that bad i guess so the rings are probably quite ok. Did slide a piece of cardboard underneat and after a night there is some oil on it so i do have a leak somewhere. Just might not be that bad after all.

Thanks for all the advice, i will do a compression test and also put some pressurised air down each cylinder to see if i have a leak down past the rings or at the valves. It did run fine today after the quick TB-clean but the idle speed is still a bit unstable, swinging up and down between ~500-800rpm. Oh well.

I just hope it lasts over the winter period cause it's a pain to work on it in the cold. New rings, head gasket, timing belt and tensioner, breathing hose, oil and filter still going to cost me more than the car did so it might not be the right (economic) approach but considering i just put new brakes (everything except the drums) all around i probably do it anyway. Is there anything else parts vise i would need to replace while i'm at it?

It's burning about half a liter of oil for every fifty liters of petrol, i can live with that for now. New rings would be nice but considering the amount of work and not having a proper garage to do it in, i probably just replace the car eventually (or get myself a garage ).

They look ok except no 4 (distributor side) that has some buildup. Did hopefully manage to cure my issue by cleaning up the venturi the lazy way. There was a bit of carbon around the throttle valve which was removed using a little brake cleaner and paper. It now seems to run just fine. Still have the oil burning issue though but its probably the piston rings and i got no time for such major surgery at the moment so it will have to wait. I seem to be lucky considering the tripmeter so i take my chances with it :p

Hello. My -97 felicia is starting to act up a bit. The engine has been burning a bit of oil and recently i was stuck in traffic for longer than usual and a bit later the engine cut out a few times while running at about 80km/h. Not for long though, just a few seconds each time, then it went along as usual again. Now the idle speed has dropped really low (250rpm), but sometimes it's normal at about 7-800rpm. Sitting in idle and hitting the brake hard a few times makes the engine rev up to normal idle speed for a little while. Since the idle is so low it has a tendency to stall at trafficlights etc. Sometimes is does stutter and hesitates a bit when i hit the accelerator but it usually drives just fine. I have checked the condition of the thottle body and it has some oily residue in the valve area and quite a bit of oil sitting on the outside of it. The hose from the crankcase is soft and has sludge in it but its not blocked. Do i need to do a cleaning of the trottle body and a realignment or can it be another cause for this issue? Petrol filter issue maybe?

Did find a VAG dealer that ordered the parts for me. Quite cheap. If anyone need to find partnumbers, check this site: http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat

Ok, so i got to work on the front suspention. Here is the lower part of the leg, oiled up to be removed. There is a screw and nut on the back to remove loosening the clamp. Stabiliser undone At the top, i removed the two retaining nuts on both sides of the car and took the brace off, i then reinstalled the nuts loosely. Back down to the strut, with some help of my faitful persuader aka. hammer it started to move. Success! The strut is off the car and i could quickly locate my problem. The top mounting plate is rubbing on the spring seat. Using a pair of cheap spring compressors i started to disasemble the strut. BE CAREFUL doing this so you dont hurt yourself. To prevent the compressors from slipping on the spring i used some hose clamps for extra safety. Taken apart. The big bushing gets replaced and the bearing (still on the damper here) gets cleaned and packed with fresh grease. No signs of leaks. Then the headache started :p Someone has before i got the car done some work here and broken the pinch bolt, tried to drill it out and failed ending up with a hole partly trough the bolt and partly in the clamp, unable to fit the new original screw and nut i ended up having to use a M8 and a locking nut in 8.8 steel, the same as i removed from there to get the car back together. It seems to do its job though but i will mend this properly when i got the time. It came together quite fast as it started to get windy and cold so sadly i did not take any more pictures. The assembly is quite straight forward though. Just do everything in reverse using new parts where needed. The order for the strut to go together is: damper, spring, upper spring seat, bearing, bearing cup, rubber bushing, mounting plate, dished washer and then finally the nut to hold it all together. Simply stick it up and attach the top nuts loosely, then attach the lower end and tighten everything.

I do need one of those since the current one has a lot of play in it.

I did manage to track down a dealer who could get me the parts. I will try and remember to document as i go. The cas has done about 18000km and the top rubbers surely need replacing, new ones are ordered and should arrive soon. I eill try and get the job done this weekend as it's gettig colder and i only have a month to fix it and redo my MOT.

Did not find a better thread so i am resurrecting this one. Going to replace the strut top bearing on my felly and need a source for the top nut. I also need a new pinchbolt for the lower ball joint which i am unable to find a supplier for localy. Does anyone have a good supplier (online) that can get me these?