VrsMule

I don't think there's much else in the system that would give those symptoms. I'd source a donor unit and plug it in to see if the lights etc operate when the door is open. It's such a common issue I'd bet it's the mechanism that's causing the issue.

is what you need !

It will be the door lock mechanisms. Can be bought from eBay for £15 + a piece. Easy enough diy job. The microswitch will have failed internally. There is a how to to replace the switch but when mine went I replaced the mechanism. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Left-Door-Lock-Mechanism-Passenger-Side-For-VW-Seat-Skoda-Lupo-Passat-UK-/162354232063?fits=Model%3AOctavia|Cars+Year%3A2003|Cars+Type%3ARS+1.8+T&epid=1194304103&hash=item25cd10faff%3Ag%3AY8wAAOSwZVhWSXaf&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae85cb27f-95f3-11e7-87d2-74dbd18026f5%7Cparentrq%3A6a8afa7215e0aca47343aed7fff4ca40%7Ciid%3A1

Has anyone used an RGB adaptor in the back of the standard Nav unit to get a reversing camera ?

So. A few other people came and viewed her and all tried to get her for dirt cheap saying the engine was making a dodgey noise ! I think she's good and as such decided to keep her ! Anyone else have any experience with noises that may be something other than the canister ? i.e. Bottom end or pulleys or bearings ?

The only real adjustment for the mechanism is where the cable comes through to the handle inside with the grooved portion the little toggle clicks in to. Sounds like it may need adjusting by a thread or 2 to give full opening action. Be careful when altering this and test before closing the door. I ended up deadlocked with the door car on and door closed !!

The black plastic box is indeed the control module. That was what my issue was. Get a module with the same number and it should work.

Did you get the exact same number ? I had the same p/n but it had a different letter at the end and it didn't work. Got the exact number and it was fine. Also could be the regulator that's snagging and causing it not to move correctly.

I have a temp sensor you can have for free if you want ?

I may have a spare actuator you can have for free if you want ?

I had both the exact same issues as you ! For the puddle light etc buy a new drivers door lock mechanism off eBay. About £25. Easy DIY job. There is a "how to" to repair the microswitch but much easier to just change the whole thing. As for the boot mine was the same. What I found was if you look at it with the boot trim off, the way it works is, the locking actuator moves a lever either to or away from the handle that opens the boot. So, locked, the lever is away and the handle has nothing to actuate on and unlocked, the lever moves in line with the handle and you can open the boot (this was for estate). I think I replaced the boot lock mechanism as It was all one piece. The central locking actuator is a seperate piece. Hope that helps.

Drove it today. Working as advertised ?

So Nav is showing 8 satellites but when driving either goes off on wrong direction or races off ahead. Is this likely to be antenna ? It's the DX system.

17704/P1296/004758 - Error in Mapped Cooling System Possible Symptoms Cold start issues Possible Causes Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) faulty Coolant Thermostat faulty Possible Solutions Check Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) Check Coolant Thermostat If your gauge is sitting low go for the CTS, easy job to do, relatively cheap.

Sounds like the micro switch has gone on the front passenger door. There it's a sticky on how to replace it but to be honest replacing the door lock mechanism is easier.

Currently have my Octy up for sale, one guy had shook hands and we had a deal but had since pulled out due to engine "issues". He he said the car has a high idle. On first start it idles above 10k revs for 15-30 secs then goes down to 800 rpm where it sits solid. I believe this is normal can anyone confirm ? He also claims the engine is "knocking". There is a ticking noise when idling but not knocking. I also believe this is normal. Shes done 185k but still pulls, doesn't use any oil/water etc.

Hi, yes brand new, replaced a couple of weeks ago.

Cheers nige! I've ordered a blower and climatronic panel. My heater is next to nothing when selected on full , only time it seems to blow is with recirculation selected or at random times it just comes to life and then dies.

Does the mk1 Octavia vRS heater have a resistor like the ones advertised on eBay for the mk2 or is it just the blower for the climatronic system ?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-ISO-Aerial-Booster-Amplified-Antenna-Lead-Adaptor-/371928862725?hash=item5698b01005%3Am%3Am_v1ZBuQ33uTzmXfGN4Tplg&_trkparms=pageci%3A796b7213-29ea-11e7-b713-74dbd1809da7%7Cparentrq%3Aa683391215b0ac8034fdd820fffec85e%7Ciid%3A1

A kenwood unit will not be standard so the amp May assist your reception. Costs £5 and takes minutes to fit. As an aside I also found that a Dashcam I had fitted in the rear of the vehicle was causing considerable interference. If you have any extras powered by the cigarette lighter try disconnecting them to see if this improves the reception.

Fitted the Amp and she's sweet !

For some reason my radio reception has gone pants. Tried another antenna, just the same. Question is can you use an amplifier with an OEM unit ? I have the DX Nav head unit. Cheers

Any body able to advise on the best route for a cable from the engine bay into the cabin ? cheers

Only thing I could see was during the service the brake fluid and power steeeing fluid levels were low. Levels now correct post service and no return of the noise as of yet.