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Interesting. UK drivers side is my passanger side. My right front door rattles with some tracks. When I apply pressure above the armrest then it goes away. I have 2013 end with Canton. VIN decode gives 2014 model. So technically, if it really gets on my nerves I could potentially deal with the problem... But in that case should I go with the soundproofing and swapping out drivers route to something else? That is the question :-)

Interesting that you hear it by the rear. My front creaked like crazy after stoping over night. Well crazy is overstated, but after going on the first ride of the day the creack was there - goes away after bump or two. My fix was at the dealer where they applied some grease to the bushings. Let SA look at the bushings.

The compressor whines with cheese as long as the car requests cold air. It can be heard really well while stationary and reving the engine 1200-1700 rpm. If you turn off the AC (there is OFF button on the center console) the whining stops. After you put it back to Auto, then whining will return. I have gone through the stealer few times, but they do nothing about it - working as intended.

While using my phone, 4G works pretty reliably too.

Made a quick video of the settings menu.

Connected my dongle. It did some update and after that I could connect.

http://forum.obdeleven.com/ This is working. Seems some kind of cert problem for https.

Forum working. Took free credits for today. I can't test dongle at the moment.

I have been experiencing some problems with time as well. My car parks in a garage near a concrete post, so as a last resort I took an old Spring from my storage room and put it right near the post. Just so, that my car could "see it". Long behold in the morning correct time was displayed... Jokes aside you can set your car time manually or from GPS, if you have it. Mine is set to GPS time and there is also a checkbox to set the car into DST. I have to manually fill the checkbox in the spring and uncheck in the autumn.

I got 1.8 TSI DSG going at about 35 UK MPG (check my Fuelly in signature) overall average - this is 80-90% tanked from pretty much 3-4 different station pistols (I tend to tank from 2 different locations, but the pistols may vary).

This. Over 1 year and under 2 years sounds about right.

I have done it (I had a minor accident, so in total I only had to pay for one side change of parts + wireing). Well I have not done it personally myself - I had Dealer done it to the car... But as far as the fogs go there was some wireing changes indeed. For notes my car does not have fog cornering. If RS has fog cornering then outside lamp should turn on while turning. If you turn on fog lights, then both should turn on. But if I turn mine on, then only inner light turns on. I do not know if they changed the wireing harness all together to RS version, I doubt it - I think they reconnected that one light to my old fog and that was it. But, since I have only used back fog light only once or twice during those 4 years and I have not used front fogs not only once, I do not care if only one lights up or both... As far as coding goes - I have OBD Eleven, so if you want me to check something out, I can look it up. On top of that, if some professional does the coding for you and you can provide coding here it would be awesome for me to check it out and for others who want to do all themselves. Why I am asking is because I know they (dealer workshop) had some coding issues and may be, just may be they did something incorrectly and it would be possible to get that outer light to turn on as well (if it is connected of course).

As you have explained everything, only one thing can be concluded - you picked that particular car because it has the best bang for buck. I was in that exact position at 2013 while looking around on different models and manufactureres. Luckily we do not have road taxing here (at least for now...), so I decided to go with the "1.8 Elegance +" and loading it with additional extras - thinking back in time... May be I should have picked the RS :-D As far as MPG goes - I am happy with it (some stats can be found in signature).

@OP - No offense, but this is what you get for driving a car with lawn mower engine :-D My 1.8 TSI 97km/h (Cruise), flat road, 0 to +2C outside gives about 98C oil. I noticed my usual oil temps drop about 1-2 degrees after getting RS front bumper. In the city warm air starts to blow in matter of minutes / 1 km or so. On the other hand, you are good! Although it would be interesting to see what the 1.4 TSI does up in the north with -30C and below. One of my colleagues told a cool story about Citrus (Citroen) or was it a Raccoon (Peugeot) with a small engine up in Finland trip where car decided to show outside temp as "--" and turn off air heater :-D

I had a little crash and one was destroyed, so everything was fitted as new on that corner. After I received my car I noticed the new one did not want to go all the way in... As my engine was running, I popped the washer stick to initiate headlamp washing process, went quickly to the headlamp and waited for the second spray and as it started to go in, I helped it go all the way. It has been working correctly ever since.

I am not justify fog light using in normal conditions, but here is what I think of the fogs in general. 99.9% of times or even 99.999% of times you do not need to use them in any possible way - fogs are only for visual effects ONLY (even if not litten, they are there for visuals - cars in general look better with them fitted). You only need to use them in REALLY heavy fog and even then they light up so little that most of the time even under usual fog you are better off driving with half light Xenons... (full Xenon is too much - it will not cut into the fog) I bet most of the people have not encountered those kinds of fogs to justify turning off your half lights and drive with fogs only... Oh you are saying corering is better with them? Please... But as far as the back extra light goes - this is there for a reason, but you can't turn that light on, unless your front ones are on. You probably want to use that extra back light more compared to fronts. So, there's that.

If you do have a boost leak, how does it make the RPM rise ahead of "normal" curve? I have OBDEleven as well - how do you look at the misfire counter? Only thing I can do is monitor "LIVE data". I have played around with that dongle and have only seen one misfire when cold and taping gas just a little. And do you happen to know if it is possible to check errors what have already happened? The only thing I can do is scan and see if there are problems or not. Why I ask is because I saw some central locking temp sensor problem which went away after I scaned the car 2 weeks later (I did not clear codes)? If you scan the second time it will clear them anyway? For notes I can't seem to find clutch pressure, real value on my DQ200. This should be real clamping force.

For notes on my 1.8 TSI they used Castrol before, but started using Mobil 5W30 at some point. I can't remember exactly what it was, but I can look it up - I kept the receipt.

May be this will help? Or this one?

If you want to go for 15k oil change interval, then just go there and request oil change service and remember to request non long life oil. So they will fix you into 15k interval for next oil change. For notes non long life is cheaper so no need to fill up with long life and then go change it in 15k. This is what I have done. /Edit Forgot to mention - first drive the 15k, then go to oil service :-D

3rd gen 1.8 TSI has oil problems? Yes, you might say, if you drive on LongLife, then you might need to give it a zip between 20-30k km, but as I am running on normal (non LongLife) at 15k km interval, then I have never toped anything in there - at around 70k km at the moment. After 15k km my indicator (stick) is at around 1/3 to the low line. For notes I give the car plenty of occasional accelerations (after oil is up to temp of course).

Exactly that. There is a minor difference I have encountered though. If you break on decending slope, engine turns off, you unplug your seatbelt and then let off the break, it will tell you to Start Engine Manually. But since the car starts to go down hill, it will restart it self regardless - probably safety stuff to gain power steering and breaks. Otherwise you have to do manual restart.

Has happened to my Amundsen too for few times over 3 years or something. Just wait it out - it will come back eventually.

All those cars could potentially be compared to Fabia, so in the end, if you bring in Octavia compared to those cars, then Octava will win hands down. If you want to compare Octavia to anything, you should be looking at: * Avensis. You really should compare Avensis in this class. As far as people say: Toyotas are pretty bulletproof cars. They tend to be more reliable "over all". * Mazda 6. This car feels small compared to Octavia. * Passat. Same size, higher price. Yes you will get less plastic, but is that plastic worth another 8k? You could get a Superb in that price range. * Accord. They stopped producing Accords, so now it is replaced with Civic Tourer. Even if it is spacious enough, the engine feels really weak. Once you go with turboes, there is no turning back - you will fall in love with that low RPM torque. You could compare 3 series BMW, but that one feels small inside compared to Octavia. Same goes with Audi A4. In this case I would like to compare Octavia with 5 series and A6, but if you go there, then why should you pick those if you could get Superb? Octavia is very practical car on every corner. Very spacious - if you start packing then you can't really compare sedan type cars like 3 series or A4 or any sedan type of car. Those cars need to be Estate type of cars compared to Octavia HB. +HB looks better, since it has a looks of a sedan... If you do not belive me, then try to take different cars side by side, pop the trunk, back doors and look if you could fit semi large things in there or not.

If the car is still under warranty then try to get information if the xenon bulbs have warranty in your country or not. For me, I get full cover on the xenon bulbs until the end of warranty period. And on top of that, you mentioned having a message, so you might want to check for error codes as well (go to the dealer if you do not have a reader).