SaffronSkoda

I would suspect they have the important job of preventing engine smells and gases entering the ventilation intake. A leak from the engine exhaust manifold would result in CO2 in the cabin without.

Having just completed another service I discovered the wrinkle in the resetting procedure. If you follow as described above the service indication is reset. However if you do the same with the hazard lights off the oil is reset. So, the hazards are the way of specifying which you wish to reset.

Did you remember to switch on the hazard warning lights prior to switching on? It was this less than obvious move that made the reset procedure work.

If you don't reset the service indicator I don't believe anything happens other than having to put up with the reminder message and ping every time you start the car. When I tried with VCDS approx 2 years ago I found it did not completely resest the warning but following other posts the following worked on my late 2013, model year 2014 Rapid. Resetting service interval display Switch off the ignition. Switch on the hazard warning lights. Press and hold the 0.0 / trip reset button (6 in the user manual). Switch the ignition on again. Release the 0.0 / trip reset button. Confirm the reset by pressing the multifunction steering wheel right hand confirmation wheel (D in the user manual).

Having followed this thread since I purchased my Rapid in 2013, I believe the the effect is subsonic, guess about 8 Hz with higher less intense resonances in the audible range. The reason this does not effect every purchaser will be both themselves and the variation in the car construction. Purchaser: I have a very narrow tube between the ear and the mouth which means changes in air pressure are difficult to accomodate especially when I have a cold and they can block, this can be exceptionally painful when flying during take off and landing. My wife was very uncomfortable in the car when she had sinusitus. The Car: This effect has been extensively reported here with the Octavia but has also been reported in the Rapid forum and a number of years ago on an American Porsche forum. I would suggest the commonality is the very large rear glass screen. Many fixes have been proposed including changing the shock absorbers, changing or adjusting the rear hatch bump stops, adding spare wheels, insulating the boot, changing the tyres. Again I would suggest all these just change the shock energy that excites the rear hatch glass. Why do cars such as the Superb not suffer from this? Well they could have a better hatch frame, mountings or even a heavier gauge glass that does not excite at that frequency. Solutions: I'm not sure there is one, it is a fundamental design fault which will not be fixed until an Octavia IV, this is borne out by the fact in 4 years Skoda has not come up with a fix, I've also seen no complaints with the Rapid Spaceback. A measure of hope: I now find my Rapid bearable. As the car aged the effect became less noticeable and I wonder if play started to appear in the suspension which allowed some of the shock energy to be lost in lossening dampers, rubber mounts etc. Secondly (and this will be probably Rapid only) I added mass and insulation to the parcel shelf. I'm not sure why this worked as I came to it by experimentation, but it could be somehow it broke up the standing waves being generated.

I would hazzard a guess that they are to stop fumes from the engine getting to the ventilation intakes so worth while sourcing.

I purchased this filter removal tool for my Rapid TSI: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-SPECIAL-TOOL-OIL-FILTER-REMOVAL-REMOVER-3417/321973001525?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3Dcd0cd56998be4435a8497f63c471fa2b%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D380941998428 It made removing the filter so easy, but more importantly it allowed me to tighten it with a torque wrench on re-assembly and have confidence it was tight but not overtightened. You may wish to check an engine code compatibility list to make sure it will fit your engine's filter before ordering.

I purchased these nickel plated brass ones 3 years ago: http://www.vanstyle.co.uk/van/nickel-plated-valve-caps-p-4536.html I use no grease, just wipe with WD40, the chrome has slightly dulled but no corrosion. I did look at aluminium caps but the almost certainty of corrosion between the aluminium and the brass valve stem put me off. As to the question, why bother: the plastic ones are just dust caps, the metal ones are actually a second seal if the valve fails or leaks. I also just nip them with a spanner so they cannot be removed by hand by all and sundry. Lastly I think they look good, the ones I received were boxed in Nissan GT parts livery.

Looking at picture 12 the crack has started at the hole which has the pin in it. This I think would not surprise most engineers as the stress concentrates at such features and if you have to have one it is normal to reinforce the material with a boss or such like. I could not guess at the load needed to cause a fracture like that but it is also possible that it could be a fatigue crack cause by flexing. In both cases I think it looks a poor design for a piece of safety equipment.

I don't know about your Bluetooth problems but my 2013 Rapid has a headlight flicker when manouvering at low speeds. I don't think it is a fault, it is just the electric motor that drives the electro-hydraulic power steering pulling a large current to assist you.

67Igor1 any chance you could say how you changed the chrome vent trims for black. Were the parts easily available and I was worried about damaging the dash.

I had a very similar problem when transferring my Windows Media Player ripped files to Android Google Play music app. It turned out when Windows Media Player rips files with artwork it finds it just puts folder.jpg and a couple of other files in the directory, however when you supply your own artwork after the rip it embeds the artwork in all mp3 files and creates the folder files, these albums displayed OK. So I needed to embed the folder.jpg in the individual mp3 and found an article that described how to do it and pointed to free software: http://www.geektonic.com/2008/02/automatically-embed-album-art-to-large.html http://www.mp3tag.de/en/download.html I now do this automatically every time I add a CD to my collection now. Hope this helps.

I would advise against this. My Rapid Elegance is fitted with them and both the window vents produce a large shiny tick reflection in the door glass just where you look into the door mirrors. If you have standard or corrected long sighted vision this may not be a problem, but if like me you have corrected short sight your eye more easily focuses on the tick rather than the mirrors image of the road behind. This is one of only two faults I have found in what is otherwise, in my opinion, an exceptional car.

Shame, I suppose it was to much to expect that they would not have included the wiring and just have left off the sender.

I've had a look at the parts diagram from: http://www.partsbase.org/skoda/rapid-rap-eu-2013-95520-fluid-container-for-water-headlight-washer-system-water-level-switch/ and wonder if on our cars without the level sensor we could just remove the bung 26 and insert the switch 24. You have proved the display has the capability to show the level so it only requires the wiring to be in place at the water bottle for an easy upgrade. Looking at the position of the switch I think it is a simple on/off switch possibly closed when water is above it.