milespd

Hi, on my Mk 1 Superb Elegance I've had a lights failure message come up on the maxidot display every time I start the car for a while. While the car was with the mechanic yesterday he ran the diagnostics which gave a 55 Level Control Xenon Lights error number 65535 - checksum error - ECU defective. After he discovered this I checked that the headlight adjusting motors did their little dance when the engine is started and - surprise - they didn't move. I am getting a second-hand controller off eBay but does anyone know exactly where the controller is located? The manual says left side of boot but it isn't obvious. Do I need to remove all the boot trim to find it?

Thanks for these replies and the link to the other thread, useful information. I shall be changing the water pump but the workshop manual says nothing about using a sealant in addition to the gasket, to seal the pump housing. Should I bolt this up dry, after thoroughly cleaning the gasket mating surfaces? I got a price for this whole job (including the auxilliary belts for the alternator and the air-con) of £1500 from Skoda franchised dealer and over £1000 from a VAG independant, hence the desire to do this myself (being retired I have plenty of time!).

Hi, I shall shortly be starting the cambelt etc. change on my BDG engine, for my first time, as the dealer wanted £1550 to do all belts (including auxilliary belts) and tensioners, water pump and thermostat. The last cambelt and water pump change were 50k miles and 5 years ago, so probably time. To be honest I'm not particularly looking forward to it but what could possibly go wrong??? First question in reading through ELSA manual and various forums is - where is the hole for the crankshaft locking tool? ELSA shows a view but not big enough to show overall context. Also any short list of potential problems that I shall have to anticipate will be very welcome. Much obliged.

Hi Jack, didn't see exactly where it was fitted but from the parts diagram it looks as if it fits somewhere close to the oil filter which sits in the "V" of the engine, behind the fuel pump I think. Hope this helps, it solved my problem for sure. Regards Paul

Hi all, new fan fitted by independant and all good. Thanks for all comments.

Hi, final post about this problem. Recently had car serviced by an independant with VCDS equivalent which flagged that the oil temperature sensor was intermitent (G8). This was replaced and no further problems with the high tickover, glowplug light goes out more quickly and it doesn't take so much churning on the starter before it fires. Job done. thanks to all for comments.

Hi Gaz, I have a suspicion that my V6 wants one or 2 of these, have you still got them? Paul

Hi, finally got round to investigating this. I disconnected the fan connector which sits in front of the power steering reservoir and measured the voltage. Came on when the aircon was switched on so assumed that everything was okay, except the fan itself. Bought new fan (VEMO) from Lott in Germany for about £85 including postage (how do they do it, nearest in UK from GSF was about £170?). Plugged the fan in, without fitting it, and it came on as soon as the aircom was turned on, off when aircon turned off so now I need to fit the fan. Anyone know if the old fan will come out without moving the lock-carrier? How about the wire routing, looks like it goes along the bottom of the aircon radiator. Advice much appreciated.

Thanks Wino and tdi1.9, your posts have been very helpful. I'll take a close look at the link, it looks useful. I'll post again when I have investigated more fully. thanks again, Paul

Hi, I've got a 2005 Superb with the BDG 2.5 TDI V6 engine and I have just had the air con re-pressurised and checked. All was okay except the guy mentioned that he thought that the electric radiator fan should be running at low speed all the time the air con is switched on, and it wasn't on my car. I have seen some posts which relate to this but can't definitively decide whether this low speed should always be on, when the air con is on. I have looked at the circuit diagram from the service manual (page No. 67/7) and it seems that there are 3 relays which turn the fan on. The first is relay J279 (fan low speed, goes through a load resistor N39), switched on by the temperature switch F18 in the coolant bottom hose. The second is J280 (direct 12V to the fan for high speed), switched on by the second set of contacts in F18. The third is J397 which is a fan run-on relay which seems to be present only for the diesel engines, which feeds the fan through another load resistor N39. Apart from the switch F18 the relays J279 and J280 have secondary actuation wires on the coil side which go somewhere off the circuit diagram to other areas on the car. One such connection goes to a point L9, which is listed as a connection -1- in the radiator fan wiring harness and I believe that this goes to the air con pressure switch F129, but the other goes to a point 55 (in a square box), which I can't find anywhere else in the circuit diagrams. Does anyone know where this designation 55 can be found elsewhere in the circuit diagrams, which drives the fan at low speed? The run-on relay J397 seems to be driven by A193 (in a circle) and J... (one of the engine control units). Does anyone know what triggers the run-on relay? Thanks for your help, as soon as I understand the circuit and its' operation I shall start delving with the multimeter.

Replaced CTS but unfortunately didn't make any difference, still the high tickover speed when warm. Will try and find someone with VCDS to see if that flags up a fault.

Thankyou so much for your swift reply, I shall take a look at what you suggest in the next day or two. One further thought, I think there is also an oil temperature sensor (G8?), might this also cause a problem? Regards, Paul

Just recently my V6 diesel has developed a fault when starting from warm. It takes a long time (10-15 seconds) for the glowplug light to go out and then it starts only after a bit of churning (maybe 3 seconds or so). It immediately starts with a very high tickover speed (1200-1300 rpm). This reduces down to below 1000rpm after about 15-20 seconds so can then drive away. Cold starts are fine, starts after glowplug light goes out (2-5 seconds), 1 second on the starter and starts immediately ticking over at about 1000 rpm. Hot starts usually okay but don't usually wait for glowplug light to go out, ticks over at about 750 rpm. Feels like a temperature sensor maybe faulty but I've no idea where this might be found. Had a new injection pump (ouch!) a couple of years ago but has been running perfectly until now. Any ideas? Paul

Thanks for the reply. All back together now, didn't need to take the seat out but thanks for the advice. The only reason I can think of that the ignition should be on when re-connecting the battery is to make sure that you are not inside the car turning the key when the power is restored, just in case the seat airbag goes off. My water problem was only on the drivers side, thankfully not too bad, and the auto box controller is under the carpet there (where the convenience controller is on the passenger side) but checked inside the plastic box and all was clean and dry. Now only time will tell whether I have any problems with the electrics, fingers crossed.

I have the radio code so this is no problem. Took the rear seat out and the trims and managed to lift the carpet enough to dry it out. However, in the front the carpet has been quite difficult to lift, the bit behind the pedals has been impossible to pull down far enough, hence need to remove the seat. Carpet is wet only where the felt backing is thickest so I think I have had a lucky escape. Did you take your seat out, what did you do about the battery when you reconnected it?