dackjaniels

Hi All, I have an Octavia I 1.9tdi (110bhp) estate remapped to approx 140bhp (by Celtic Tuning). It has been excellent since the remap until a few days ago when I first noticed a dip in power during acceleration. This occurred a few times until today when after a ten mile run the acceleration in the top 3 gears was permanently pathetically slow, its like perhaps the turbo isn't kicking in (?). I made it back to my house ok and noticed that as I neared home the car flew up some very steep hills in first and second gear so it appears the problems is only in the higher gears. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Incidentally, I have done a full VAG-COM scan and no faults are detected (performed when car was idling) except for an old fault regarding intermittent single line operation, though as this is an old known fault I don't think it is the cause of the acceleration problems. Cheers! :confused: Update: I have just done a log of measuring blocks 003 and 011 as described on the VAG-COM website. The MAF appears fine at around 960 at 3000 rpm and the Turbo actual/expected boost vs rpm looks almost as described on VAG-COM but without a significant spike at 2.1. This should make sense to those in the know if not please ask and I will clarify. Unfortunately (?), during the above logging the car ran almost perfectly and was accellerating as normal (or damn close) so it may be an intermittent fault.

Thanks for the help guys. Wondered if there may be a screw under the transponder badge but didn't wanna ruin the badge so I drilled a hole through the side of the case which also removed the old transponder. Popped the new one in and hey presto. The drill hole is now out of site when the remote is attached to the transponder. Got my new key blade through, attached it and followed the procedure in the car handbook for re-synching the remote. Simple procedure....press any button on the new remote then unlock the drivers door with the physical key. The remote was immediately matched with no need for VAG-COM or the key in ignition and lock door with another key, press buttons, etc procedure mentioned everywhere else. I have two new glass transponders (as pictured above) so if anyone has purchased a dud key off ebay give me a shout, they may just be what you need!

Just received this CD in the post and am quite impressed. It is Autodata CD-2 and covers many areas: Technical Data Repair Times Timing Belts Key Programming Wiring Diagrams Service Intervals Component position diagrams DTC Trouble Codes (huge list of VAG and generic P0 codes) NOTE: Content may vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle. Skoda cars covered: Fabia - 1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.4 16V, 1.9D SDI, 2.0 Favorit - 1.1, 1.3 Felicia - 1.3, 1.6, 1.9D Octavia - 1.4, 1.4 16V, 1.6, 1.8, 1.8 Turbo, 1.8 Turbo 20V RS, 1.9 SDI, 1.9 TDI, 1.9 TDI PD, 2.0 Superb - 1.8 Turbo, 1.9D TDI PD, 2.0, 2.5D TDI, 2.8 Plus a few other skoda models (S100, S110, Forman Pick-up, etc.) Weel worth the cost in my opinion. Hope this helps anyone interested.

Unfortunately all of the items on ebay seem to go by part no of the remote rather than transponder part no. I bought a unit with a matching remote part no but it appears the transponder had been locked so it could not be coded to another vehicle. I bought a transponder from here... http://www.hickleyvaltone.com/diagnostics/keys_list.php Part No. AKTP2. This is what it looks like (about 12mm long) Tried to code it to my IMMO and it didn't work the first time but did the second time. It is now correctly recognised every time I use it. Another problem though, I have tried to code the remote part of the key by following the Ross-tech instructions by entering the number of keys into measuring block 01 of the cent. conv. control module. The measuring block appears to be the correct one as it shows Keys Count 1 (only one remote matched at the moment). However, when I try to update the value to 2 it doesnt let me. Procedure used: Enter channel and press read (fields show one remote is currently matched) Enter new value of 2 and press test. Test value shows 1. No matter how many times I repeat it the value remains at 1 and the save button is never enabled. Can anyone shed any light on this behaviour? :( I haven't yet tried the manual programming method (key in ignition, lock driver's door with other key, etc.) as I only have 1 key cut at the moment. For anyone wondering how I coded the IMMO transponders with only one working key I simply detatched my original key shaft and used that! Finally, does anyone know how to open the transponder case so I can replace the original with my working one? I have tried and tried but all i've managed to do is chew the plastic up around the edges. Are these things glued together?? Steve

That's right, I need a new transponder. I bought a complete key but as the transponder part of it is no good I need a new one. :eek: Steve

So what/who is mixed-up? I agree with what you have said but it's just slightly different wording to what we have been saying all along isn't it? Remote unit with battery attaches to transponder/key unit with no battery. Together they make what we often just refer to ask car keys....as in.... honey, where the F**K did you put my car keys!*@!?? Steve

Thanks for the info VRStu Regarding the transponder, I know little about them in the car keys but we do have them in work in door access tags. The tags are simply a small graphite-looking disc. They are programmed using no connectors similar to matching car keys to the IMMO. As such I believe the transonders are self-contained (as they also need no external power supply) so they may just drop into the transponder case with no further work required. Not sure though, I may open my duff one up to find out!!! Cheers again

Sorry about the mix-up, so many people in the discussion I got a bit lost with who was who! The link below is for a UK site that seems to supply a wide range of transponders, keys and remotes. There are two transponder (chips) listed for the VAG group and there are a number of 'key fronts' with the blank blade and transponder. Very little info on each though, it's a bit unclear exactly which supports which. http://shop.advanced-keys.co.uk/ Will make enquiries as to which is suitable for mine, not sure if they may need programming/coding using their software first or if they are simply ready to pair with an IMMO.

Yes, I realise that. Bad phrasing again I think. I meant to say that the part number is HLO 1J0 959753 AG (the remote) and the transponder unit (with the key attached) looks like No 38 in the pic. I wasn't referring to the remote as the transponder. Did you want the part mumber off the transponder unit itself? I guess I would have to open the transponder up as there are no numbers on the outside. I do have the original tag that came with the original keys (barcode tag) and it has the remote part no printed on it. Do you think it may also tell me what transponder is attached to the remote? Ta, Steve

VRStu, wWhen you say 'they' do you mean the main dealer or another company? Part No is: HLO 1J0 959 753 AG (Looks like transponder No. 38 in your pic) and it's 434MHz

I have seen transponders with blank keys for sale elsewhere on the web that look compatible, will have to find out if they are IMMO 3 compatible. Cheers Guys:cool:

FABIA??? I drive an Octavia, or were you using Fabia as an example of a very similar car? Anyway, thanks for your replies and the friendly debate, quite entertaining! Just to re-affirm I have both VIN and IMMO number so I must have IMMO 3, besides the IMMO 3 key-matching procedure worked, just not on the new key (re-matched my old one after the C**K-UP with no problems. The four digit code worked (proven by the above procedure working). The only letters I can see on the key shaft are FAB. Definately no W :( . Can the W be joined by other letters or will it be on its own? Does anyone know of a reliable source for this type of flip key (and not the stealers!), specifically keys with the variable code. I have been reading up and there is some reasonably priced equipment available to code keys for just about any car you can think of, I can feel a possible business idea brewing... Do general posts in this forum show much of a demand for keys at reasonable prices? As you're the guys that answer all the questions I guess you would be the best to ask. Thanks again By the way where did the name BRISKODA come from (the BRI bit not the SKODA bit!) Does it simply stand for Britain?

Sorry Lummox, Just read my post and realised how misleading it was using the word fob. I am actually referring to the key and transponder part, I have not tried programming the "fob" for the central locking yet. I believe I have immo 3 as the notes on Ross-tech point toward having it, namely, my instrument panel in VAG-COM has both VIN No and IMMO Number displayed. I tried to match the keys to the immo exactly as you have suggested but upon inserting the 2nd key (the 'new' one) the immo light on the dashboard just kept on flashing, indicating an error and the 2nd key didn't work. I suspect the above differences in the measuring block values (after referring to Ross-tech's pfd on immo3 Measuring Blocks) are the reason that the new key doen't work. Perhaps as you said, it has been previously matched to another vehicle and there is no way of changing that, so effectively the transponder code is write once. I really just wanted to understand for sure, as it was advertised as brand new and if it has previously been matched to another car then it is not brand new and I have good reason to complain to the seller. By the way, matching my original key after the above failed attempt was easy so I am following the procedure correctly. If all else fails I'll just transplant my tatty old key into a shiny new case, not so much of a waste then! :P

Hi all, Recently got a key fob off ebay for my Octavia (flick-out style). I have followed the instructions on Ross-tech for key matching for IMMO3 and also checked out the Measuring blocks for IMMO3 document. My problem is this... ...with the new [un-matched] key in the ignition I get this... Block 22 0 1 1 2 (all OK, legitimate transponder) Block 23 0 1 0 6 (variable code not matched (expected) / Transponder in key is locked / Fixed transponder code of key is not authorised / immobiliser operating normally) With original [working key] key I get... Block 22 1 1 1 2 block 23 1 1 1 6 (Transponder is locked and Fixed transponder code of key is authorised) I am guessing I have been fobbed-off ('scuse the pun) with a duff key fob, perhaps cos it's been programmed to another car. Is this the case? Can someone please explain this in some detail regarding the fixed codes and transponder locking? I realise the key fob may be useless but even so I need to understand what to look for if I find another on the cheap. Does anyone have a source for cheapish key fobs? Good news is that recoding my old key back went great so I can still drive my car!!

When I accessed block 17 manually all fields were completely blank so I guess readiness is not suuported as you have said. Thanks for the label file link, guess I will have to brush up on my German. Thank you all for your help and advice. Steve