CrazyL

Thanks blokes. The internet continues to show me things. I suspect the rear speed sensor is the key to to of the lights at least. I will try AJ77s method of resetting the steering light, and risk looking like a right fool as I do so Yes Ken, I would have thought they would have pulled her up on the wipers by now, perhaps my version of crap is different to their version of crap.

Right, wife has an '07 1.9tdi. Dash looks like a bloody xmas tree. I have been unable to clear any of the errors with my cheap handheld scanner, so they must need looking at, (ie: money spent) again trouble is, she spends nothing on her car, aside from the legal requirements and putting diesel in it, so when the MoT comes up, muggins here has to cough up. Been telling her for the last 2 years to buy a new pair of wipers. She doesn't. Anyway, rant over , back to the problems. First up, airbag light, I assume it goes with my code of 01217. I read about a yellow plug under the drivers seat. Just had a mirror under there, I couldn't see a yellow plug. So help there is appreciated, as well as with the following. Secondly, tyre pressure light. it was on, so with tyre pumped up, I press the button and it goes out. Then, after stopping and starting the car, it comes back on. So I don't understand what's going on there. Thirdly, Traction control light is on, the one with the skiddy car symbol. I did read a code of 00287, which I can only find as rear right wheel speed sensor. Would this affect the traction control amongst other things?.....because of course.... .....Fourth, the ABS light is on. Fifth. Steering wheel light is on, in orange, or yellow if you like. I had recently disconnected the battery to charge it as it went flat. I also drove it round the block but it's still on. I've checked fluid level, and it's fine. That's pretty much it. Kin modern cars , always something to fix these days with all these sensors and codes.

The service check intervals are listed on the invoice, giving a mileage that I should have them done at. There are 2 other checks further on, 6k and 12k. The checks are free.

Hi guys I have to ask the above question as I can't find anything on the subject on the actual internet. There is a story behind it too. I had a new sachs clutch kit (dmf, slave, plate) fitted at a Mr Clutch in late '19. Due to lockdown and having a vulnerable wife, I reached and missed the 1st service check at 500 miles, and I have missed the the 2nd check at 3000. The clutch has done 4000 miles and is now slipping. I spoke to the branch and the rude bloke told me there was a 1 year warranty on the clutch as I had missed the service intervals, and that was it, good bye. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hi all Been on this forum for a number of years now, but only just found this part of the forum. I have been riding since 1994, and have ahd a full license since 1995, a full year before I got a car license. So I am well versed in bikes. I have never taken a break due to "family commitments" and "getting married", or any of that other stuff. I don't anything new, but I look after what I do have, and they are. A 2001 Yamaha Thunderace, an 11 plate Triumph Tiger 800 XC, and an 06 Yamaha WR250F, which is road legal for green laning. Hope to visit here a bit more often

Micmac, Do you know who makes them? I only ask as in my experience, The Valeo ones I've had don't hold a torch to the Bosch ones for longevity. My experience only of course. Thanks Skomaz, I'll check them out too. ECP are having one of their mid month discounts, where everything is the price it should be.

Hi Folks The wife has an 07 Mk2 Octy and she needs new wipers for the windshield and for the first time in my driving life, I find myself a bit confused with what I need to buy . I know that sounds weird to you guys until I say that my Octy is a Mk1 and has the same old wiper attachment method that I am used to from my old 6n2 Polo, and the 3 Mk2 Golfs, teh 2 A3s, and even the Mk3 Escort and Mk1 Astra. So looking at the wifes cars wipers, the clips are completely different, and looking on the euro car parts website I see it gives a couple of types. Can you guys help me out please?

Cheers guys for all your replies. Yes, it's done now, but the headache didn't end there oh no, it carried on. To cut a long story short, I went to a local tyre place, Called "Denmead Tyre Services", I asked for 2 new tyres and my wheel alignment to be done. The tyres were done but was told they can't/won't do the alignment as strut mounts have movement, hence the above caper. So I went back, sat waiting. Bloke comes in, "Can you come round here please sir!" We get to ground level and he points my gaze to the wishbone. "See that movement?" No, I can't. "You've got play in your wishbone mounts. so I can't do the alignment" I asked why no one thought to point this out last time when they told me about the strut mounts. Proper pssed me off. I don't doubt that things are 100% but surely ask if I still want' it done rather than tell me it won't be done. I didn't see any movement, and I work in the machining trade where I look at 0.1mm, 0.05mm etc. Anyway, rant over, I shall not grace them with my custom again.

I read the first part of this thread last November, as my passenger door wouldn't open either, the day before my MOT. I used ceramic chain lube to spray on the thing after I had dremmeled it open and unlocked it. I have not had the problem since, so many thanks for a useful article.

Welcome to the gang. I myself have a Diesel estate, and have had it for almost 7 years. I can't comment on your engine, except for that I had one in my A3 Mk1 many years ago. Anyway, Sounds like you've gotten off to a start, and if you keep it or any length of time you will find that: window regulators fail. The washer nozzle on the rear upper brake light will somehow break off. and the badges look crap when they'e old, but as far as reliability goes, they're great. Typical VAG fayre really.

I've booked the damn thing into a local garage now, Quite handy now the weather has changed all of a sudden.

This is exactly where it is binding. The shaft comes to rest on bracketry which prevents any further droop. I've put it all back together now. gonna take it in somewhere, I've spent about 7 hours on it trying different things and struggling and have got nowhere. For a job that should be so simple, it's been a right pain in the jacksie,

Yes sir, drivers side. It is the side closest to my workshop door, so started there. Seems though it's a thing, or just plain coincidence.

The ali bits on my roof rails are a bit tatty, what with flaky paint and a white furry finish, so I wanted to refurb them After much searching on here and the internet in general, It seemed everyone had only half the story, some would say bolts were on inside, others said they were on the outside, but only on the Mk 2 onwards, so I had to find out for sure. I apologise if someone has in fact said all this already, but I couldn't blooming find it. Are the rails fastened externally? YES, BUT, the fasteners appear to go into some kind of top hat nut that isn't captive. If you push on the fastener, you push out the top hat arrangement on the underside of the roof meaning headlining removal to re seat. IF you are lucky though, you can pull on fastener while doing back up and nut thing on the back will grip to something, enabling you to nip up and forget about the whole thing. How do I reach the bolts on the rail? If you must, The curved ends are plastic covers, as well as the one in the middle, they lever off from the inner side with a small flat bladed screwdriver, just be careful, if you have the touch of Rose West you'll dent them. So can I refurbish my rails? Yes, just mask off large areas around the rail mounts and choose a windless day. So there, that's that. I hope it is of some use to someone somewhere.

Thanks dude, so I'm not missing anything then. I even got my spring compressors in there but I struggled for room a bit. I had a small pry bar wedged in the split hub. The shock turned in the hole but the hub would simply not go down any further, even with whacking the top of the hub with a lump hammer over a chock of wood. I shall try again another day.

Yeah, I'm not a moron, and know my way round a socket set, also replaced front shocks on Mk 2 Golfs before, but this thing, oh my life.... Right, so: I need to replace front strut top bushings and bearings, excessive movement I've been told. So after a fashion, I've undone the clamp bolt in the hub, and removed the bolt holding the anti-roll bar drop link to the front of the wishbone, so wishbone drops a bit further. However, there is still not enough room for the shock bottom to pull out of the hub, it's still in the hub by about 20mm, ish. Am I missing something, because 4 hours of swearing and wiggling about dirty bits of car to separate them has me not in the best of moods right now. I'm pretty certain it shouldn't be this awkward. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

Just found this thread via search engine, as opposed to the search feature in Briskodas forum. I'm after refurbing my roof bars on my Mk 1 Octy, as they are flaking now. I've not pulled the front and rear covers off but I just want to clarify with you guys that the headlining doesn't need to come down, is this correct? Cheers for your help.

I know it says you're in Sweden, but while browsing for a boot spoiler in the UK, I found these guys here. I don't know if that is of any help to you.

As mentioned before, you'll need your engine and gearbox code to ascertain which clutch kit you need. From my experience of websites like that, they are all suitable for your car, it's just a question of which manufacturer you choose. LUK or Sachs are the two main ones for OE quality I'm lead to believe.

Perhaps I'm being a thicko, but nothing on the internet looks like mine. I see a plain pulley, held on with 3 capheads. I will try and post a picture in the week. If I'm a knob and have missed something, so be it, but I'm sure there is nothing else there.

Thanks for replying, but how does it attach if there is nothing to attach it to? I looked again today from the top, with a small mirror on a stick. There is no extra shaft outside of the pulley, this is what I'm saying. The pulley is held on with 3 capheads, and there is a rusty bit on the centre, that is all.

I have an Estate, the tail light clusters don't set my world alight. Years ago, I had a set of M3 style cluster on my Mk2 GTi 8v, they looked great with the graphite paint. Just wondered if there was anything around for old hat Octys. Ta

I have the same car. Had a new LUK clutch back in November, as well as a new dual mass and slave cylinder. Had it done at Mr clutch as I don't have the means to do it myself. Not had a problem. Cost a few £££ though

"so it's just Jojo don't know nothin'"?

Hi guys I have a Mk 1 Octy L&K. I last used the aircon 2 or 3 years ago when it then stopped working. Any, I put it down to lack of gas. I should point out at this point that this is only the 2nd car I've ever had that has had aircon, the other was a W reg A3 1.8 about 10 years ago, so I know next to nowt about AC. So I had it re gassed last week. The guy did a leak test and also told me there was gas still left, so must be leak free. Drove home the long way but it never came out super cold. My wife had hers done the previous day and hers blows arctic winds out. She drive a Mk 2 Octy Elegance. So a little bit of reading and I read that there's a clutch mechanism on the front of the pump pulley, and this is known to fail or fall off. I observe a photo that has said clutch missing and note there is a spline on the shaft and a thread, obviously where clutch mech keys on to shaft and is done up. So I look under my car at lunch today (I lost my undertray some time ago), and with a mirror, I look at front of pump pulley, only to see that there is no additional shaft protrusion and that it's a simple, pulley bolted on to end of shaft arrangement. So no clutch, is that right? I'm thinking it's the pump again now, but to be honest, I've not a bloomin' clue. Any ideas chaps?