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darrylg

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    Cheltenham

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  • Model
    Octavia vRS Blick

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  1. I had the same.Mine went unused for 5 months and it was like treacle. I wipped off the gear stick cover and white greased the mechanism, then I also did the gear linkage adjustment (search on here for how to do this). After both of those things, I finally resorted to changing the gearbox oil. After another 200 miles with the new oil and it's finally back to normal. It needed some use and probably some heat along with the new oil, to grease up the gearbox insides.
  2. Low coolant level seems to stop the heating working. I've had this one.
  3. I seem to remember someone saying that you need to turn the ignition to position 1 (dont start the car), with the radio switched on, leave for 30 seconds, then it should work.
  4. [emoji57] you need three hands. Try hooking it onto the clips with the handle pulled through, then just try and line it up and whack it where the push in plastic bits are, finally whack it home on the metal clips. Good luck.
  5. The wiring that goes through the protective rubber sleeve from the car to the door, has probably got a broken connection. Or, your door lock microswitch is on its way out. Or, you have a broken solder joint on the door lock mechanism which is only contacting when the lock gets pressure applied.
  6. I've got the standard coil packs the car came with (I didn't get any re-call notices to change to green ones...). Car's been converted since Jan 2010. No problems so far.
  7. Well it was another successful weekend for me. Another foray into the electrics of my 2005 Octavia MK1. The problem was that when I opened the boot, the little light didn't come on inside the boot. Plus, the dash light didn't show the boot was open. The central locking would always re-lock the car after 30 seconds with the boot still open, because it didn't think the boot was even open. This was a dangerous situation for me because I always load stuff into the boot after unlocking the central locking, and it meant I could easily accidentally lock the keys in the boot. So after my previous successes with the electronic locking in the drivers door and passenger door, I decided I would tackle this problem. I originally asked my local dealer to look at the issue about 3 years ago, and they said it would take too much effort to trace the electrical fault. So, I started by taking the boot lid plastic off (I hate this because it's fiddly to get back on). I checked the wire connector that connects onto the lock latch and it looked OK, but I wasn't getting any electrical output from the multimeter. So I traced the wire as it went into the boot on the right had side (passenger side). It runs down into the boot and connects into a connector block just above and behind the cd changer. You need to get behind the material covering to see it. Note that there's one screw type plastic thing that holds the material in place. I could immediately see the famous blue stuff that indicates corrosion. The wire I was tracing was brown/black and when I pulled it, it completely fell out of the connector block, along with more blue stuff. It had corroded from the connector! So, back out came the soldering iron. I cleaned up the wire and soldered it onto the remains of the metal connector inside the block. Connected it back up and the boot light started working along with the dash light. Another success! Total time: 30mins. Amount of £ saved: probably hours in labor for diagnostics.
  8. Me again. Did I see that you got a spare spider? Is it the original colour, or have you had it sprayed? Ta.
  9. So is the red led next to the door pin flashing when the door is locked? This is the only weird thing. Otherwise it sounds like the ccu has an issue if all the wiring is looking good.
  10. Ahh, that's what that is.I took off the front a while back and thought it might have been related to the air bag. So I handled it like it was dynamite. [emoji28]
  11. Cool, free tweezers. Or are they yours already? My ashtray was of the haunted kind, but it's now gone dormant and won't open at all unless I push/pull it open (there's no spring to it).
  12. Is this the same car where you've had the loom replaced? Send it back to the dealer. Are you sure they fitted a new loom, window regulator etc ? Those things are pretty expensive when they could have just tied some wires together in a dodgey way and this is causing the fuse issue.
  13. There's more than one microswitch in the lock mechanism. The one that usually fails is the one that detects if the door is open or not. It's activated by the lock catch rotating when you close the door. You've said that the "door open" dash light comes on and goes off when you open and close the door, so that rules the main microswitch out. You're also able to use the lock electronics with the key itself, so the lock and other microswitches and lock electronics must be good. Which leaves only a few other areas: - The door loom wiring in the door pillar. - The window regulator and connector. - Something else. You would need to get access to the door pillar wiring (see other posts on this) and check it. Only then would I start dismantling the door inner. Or just take it back to the dealer. Darryl
  14. There's one at the back of the haynes manual. How are you getting into the car with no central locking? Are you saying that it is or it isn't beeping? Are you talking about the beep when you leave your lights on?
  15. Well, at the risk of becoming known as "Mr Lock", here is yet another fault that involves the door lock mechanism electronics. I managed to fix this at the weekend, with a little soldering and a lot of patience. Symptoms are: - Dash light does not come on when you open the door. - Central locking re-locks the car after 30secs even though you've opened the driver's door. - Lights on buzzer does not work when you leave the lights on and open the driver's door (if the issue is with the drivers door mechanism). The problem is a broken solder joint on the PCB board within the door lock mechanism electronics. On removal of the mechanism, I could wiggle the black connector block with it still connected to the wiring loom and the "door open" light would come on on the dashboard. So it showed as an intermittent connection. Here's how I fixed it. (Warning, we will disassemble the lock, so you need time, otherwise, no lock for the car door!) Also, see my other posts on the mechanics of the door locking mechanism and some great pictures in case you forget how to put it back together! 1, Get access to the lock mechanism using the usual door inner removal process. 2, Loosen the two screws that secure the window regulator support that obstructs the lock mechanism. Do not remove the screws, just loosen them as much as possible. 3, Remove the lock mechanism and unplug it (wiggle the block connector to verify if you have the same issue). 4, Remove the spring from the lock mech. 5, Remove the single screw from the black lock front. 6, Remove the 8 screws from the top of the lock casing. 7, Prise the clips from either side of the casing/lock unit that holds the electronics casing to the lock mechanics. 8, My solder joint was very slightly cracked. Enough so that I could wiggle it and it would re-connect. So I got the soldering iron out and heated it up. I applied a little more fresh solder also. Obviously I'm no electronics expert, so my soldering is questionable at best, but it was good enough ;-) 9, Reassemble and re-connect to check if the dash light now works. 10, Reassemble door inner. That's it. It took me about 30 mins to strip the door, 30 mins to solder and 30 mins to put the door back together. Total saving £30.
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