Fabia00

Hi, It may be a similar issue I've had, not been able to find any resolution yet :(: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/462808-cruise-control-not-working/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/407904-2007-fabia-3-cruise-control-not-working/ Would be interesting to see if you mange to resolve. Thanks David

Hi sorry still not had any luck as yet :(. Will be trying to get it sorted out at some point when funds allow. Cheers David

Not sure if this is any help hutchysrs50 but this was all i could find relating to possible switch issue: https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1677073

Yes please if you could I'm really missing having it and its only been a few weeks. I'm running out of options, I'm still of the opinion its switch or brake switch related even though there are no codes - only logical thing it can be. Have thought I may swap brake light bulbs as well just in case. Really confusing issue, only other thing I could find was on VW T5 forum looks like its the exact same cruise switch as the fabia and on there one member had taken the switch apart and found it slightly loose - trying to find it again now - possible lead of enquiry. Last resort will be dealer or trusty auto electrician not looking forward to the ££££ it will cost though :(.

Thats ok I'm not sure if your may have a Fabia III if its a 2016 model though? Think it may have different control modules etc hence the high costs?

Did this ever work hutchysrs50? cheers David

Hi Sorry to revisit an old thread but this sounds like the exact same issue I'm having (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/462808-cruise-control-not-working/?_fromLogin=1). I just wondered if you ever managed to get the cruise working again. I've been to mechanic again yesterday and we used VDCS again and managed to get into engine 01 and coding 07 long coding helper un-ticked ccs cycled key off went back in and reactivated and still nothing. So far had - new battery not changed anything, changed all fuses related to cruise control, brake lights still work and mechanic says he has tested switch both from ecu and brake lights and it is OK (automatic so no clutch switch) no stored codes at all on VDCS. Been on switch on VDCS and pressing all the buttons shows the codes change as you use switch only thing I could see which didn't alter was that ecu shows 1 all the time (i did wonder if it could still be a fault switch or brake switch and no errors being stored). Not sure what to try next apart from replacing random parts. Mechanic seems to think may be best getting Skoda main dealer diagnostics as their machines are a lot more advanced than VDCS. Before I go to that cost or an auto electrician just checking if this ever got resolved. Thanks David

Last time my passenger window would not work at all in the end I put key in drivers for lock and held in unlock position and the windows all went down and then in lock so they all closed and it worked fine after that. Might be worth a try.

Thanks for the reply, I hoped it would be that but unfortunately not. Had battery replaced and we've gone back in on vdcs still the same let's us in to the 01 engine section but the coding II still greyed out. Have coding 07 but mechanic didn't like altering anything in there as says it may make more problems. Any other thoughts? Cheers David

Hi Not sure if anyone can help. The factory fitted cruise control on my fabia has stopped working out of the blue. Taken it for sevice today to my friend who runs an independent skoda garage and he's connected vdcs and scanned it no faults at all stored, he's shown me switch on Vdcs and it's recognising all positions when switch is used. However he can't get in to recode cruise as the coding II module is greyed out. Not sure what it could be? Only other thing is my battery died as we disconnected it to see if that reset any modules etc and he's ordered a new one, would low voltage affect vdcs or is there anything else that could be an issue? He's ruled out faulty stalk and brake light switch, it's dsg so no clutch switch. Thanks David

I prefer to still have a manual temp gauge even though it is waited to always read 90 in normal conditions to stop people panicking that it has gone to 100 and that the water is boiling. The main reason being is it can help to identify issues such as if a thermostat is stuck etc - my Smart had an issue where the gauge would not go above 60 unless sat in traffic where it would go to above 90 and the fan would kick in and this was down to a lazy thermostat. Had there been no gauge I don't think it would have been picked up. The lights etc at least on the Yaris the cold light goes off at anything above 54 degrees water temp according to scan gauge I have so therefore it could be running cool if the stat were to go. I think it it is a silly thing to cut to save a few pence.

It may look blank but I'm pretty certain there is a sensor there if climate control is fitted. Believe this is what it looks like if removed: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-ROOMSTER-SUN-SENSOR-5J0907539-/282186792605?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Hi, I believe it is the sunlight sensor for models with climate control. Thanks David

Of the two I think the Polo would suit your mum better the A1 has a really small boot and no chance of fitting a spare wheel on it. Plus the new polo gets a lot of upto date technology and safety kit not around on the A1 as yet. Maybe a left field choice and know you said your dad likes German cars but the new i10 is seriously impressive the quality inside seems like golf level never mind up! or polo and the space is not much less. Probably has a better shape boot than the A1 and you can have the 1.2 top trim for about 12k. David

I know this is an issue on the superb, but I have the same problem on my Fabia been experiencing it for the last few months the speedo needle waves but only seems to happen from 50 mph onwards its particularly bad at 70 mph but the speed itself is constant. Will follow this thread with interest if anyone can find a solution. Have already paid garage to look at it as its out of warrant and they said they couldn't find a fault but its definitely not right. David

Do the wipers come on at all if you start driving and then stop completely when stationary apart from the rear wipe as this could still be the bonnet catch at fault. If you google VW wipers and bonnet catch there are quite a few threads that sound similar to the issue I think? Might be worth seeing if you can swap just to rule it out? If not maybe an auto electrician might be able to find an issue? David

Does it not work on all positions or just the first/ intermittent. There was an issue where a fault bonnet catch can stop the wipers working I was once told by a garage doing an MOT on my fabia as they had had a few polos with similar catches where the wipers stopped working. May be worth a check? David

To OP yeah the htp engine does sound a little growly at times but is perfectly normal just part of its character. For a little engine it goes pretty well. To KarenP sounds like the same noise I had a few weeks ago which was getting worse it was the fuel lines vibrating against the chassis like a hammer being knocked very quickly against metal but only when at idle and worse with air con off. I suspected the chain and still think I may have an issue with this but the other noise is now gone. Try and get it done before the warranty runs out as it is a known fault but only got the padding if the customer complained about the noise. I got charged due to have to pay diagnosis for that along with an issue with the speedo and rev counter needles fluctuating which is still not resolved I think may be the HT leads starting to melt due to the design.

Hmmm not overly keen on that looks like they bolted the headlights off the new octavia and the grill off the rapid on to the general shape of fabia II. Maybe that colour is not helping either doesn't suit the shape.

Like the roadster stevie.d. Here is mine:

Hi, Well have owned an MX-5 MK2.5 and currently have a Smart Roadster Coupe 80, have had the smart a year now. So think I can speak on both. Bought the MX-5 as wimped out of buying the smart due to horror stories but after 9 months I got rid mainly due to the level of rust including chassis rails and bought the Smart . Plus as much as the MX-5 drives brilliantly much better than the Smart it is a little dull and souless. The Smart is 80% as good to drive as the MX-5 and has a lot more features and safety if you find the right one such as heated seats, cruise control, air con (which has already been said suffered a broken pipe fortunately despite being 8 years old Mercedes gave goodwill and replaced it completely at a cost of £400), electric mirrors side airbags esp etc. I would avoid the Brbaus due mainly to the wheels which are as solid as melted chocolate and the body kit which at a B service has to be removed and by all accounts makes a difficult job even worse. If I were to buy again I would go for the notch rather than Coupe as the rear windows on the coupe have to be removed to remove the rear body work however the screws snap and they cost £180 a side to replace having just replaced both on mine due to the previous owner I don't wish to have that expense again. The 700 cc engine in the roadster is a lot stronger than in the fortwo there are rebuilds but not as many there are several roadsters with over 100,000 miles with no engine issues one on theroadster.net forum is upto 267,000 miles all original. Mine is currently on 76,000. The 600cc engine in left hand drive models and in the fortwo is the one which needs a rebuild after about 50,000. Leaks - where to begin they all leak to some extent which is why they were pulled as they used to fry the SAM units basically the fuse board which controls all functions of the car. It is located in the drivers footwell beneath the scuttle panel and was never properly sealed (one of the first jobs to check) so water on early ones ran straight on to it and fried the electrics. Other leaks can cause condensation to do the same or worse as the underside of the carpet is like a sponge the top feels dry but underneath it is soaking. If looking at one pull up every conceivable bit of carpet and stick your hand underneath. They leak from the side windows, the rear of the electric roof and so on. Most can be fixed to a certain extent just make sure there is extra sealing on the tridion if you look as most were taken back by Mercedes and Smart applied extra sealing to bond the Tridion to the body. Buying a later one means it may have been sat for a long time as they only did two productions runs between 2003 and 2005 but it is possible to pick some not registered until late 2007. There are a lot of average ones it took me three months searching to find the spec i wanted and one which appears to be well looked after and I had to travel to Scotland for it. Worth it for the drive back though . Be prepared for lots of frustrations and delight in equal measure, also check the earth strap which can cause all sorts of electrical issues due to the cheap exposed one fitted which rusts. When I first got mine it wouldn't start several times in the first week replaced this and has been ok since there have been other issues such as the airbag warning light, horn stopped working, thermostat broken which have needed some attention. Overall they do attract a lot of attention and questions and they should hold their value due to the limited numbers. Best thing is to read as many buyers guides as you can and also check out theroadster.net which has loads of valuable info and help from other owners. Any other questions just ask David

No Problem. Fingers crossed that the items changed and the software update fixes the issues - the media problem may be part of one of the other issues. Seems like the Mk3 Octavia is have a few electrical teething issues hopefully they will get resolved quickly - one downside of having the latest platform I guess. Otherwise hope the car is living upto expectations? Yeah think I will ring customer services and check if has ever been done; never been advised if it has during any of the services etc but don't normally get told it just gets done. David

Seems very quick for a facelift maybe test mule for next superb?

Yeah that's why I'm worried its a 2010 105 tsi original chain and tensioner as far as I know. Sounds like its normal though so must be something else causing the ocassional rough running just can't quite put my finger on whats causing it, hopefully Skoda will have a good poke around when it goes in. What issues you having with the Octavia TP? Know I've had the occasional electric gremlin on the fabia mainly electric windows the passenger rear one not working at all but then take key out and restart and its fine done it since new and is very random maybe once every 8 months. Also pressing and holding unlock button to open the windows may as well have a crystal ball for the amount of times they actually go down yet pressing the lock button they all go up every time. David

Thanks for the replys , maybe I've just noticed it more recently due to the running issues. Wonder if it could be coil pack failing. Will have to see what develops. David