Rob_OctaviavRS

Sensors checked, all as they should be, they will only fit one way due to the way the electrical plug connects. Driven again and it feels as if the abs is kicking in all the time every time you brake. I haven't got VCDS so I can't check the signals etc and to be honest I wouldn't know what I was looking for anyway. I can't see the reluctor rings being damaged as both front hubs have been changed and the exact same fault is still there. No abs warning light or codes still. If I disconnect either sensor it throws the light and drives fine (obviously without the abs working) but as soon as the circuit is connected up the problem starts.

Thats a point! I'm sure I put them in right, but its worth a look I guess! I'll have a look at that this morning and post back later today. Cheers

The hubs I've used were guaranteed salvage units complete with bearings already fitted. The ABS sensors are brand new items, and all previous codes have been erased. What about the sensors themselves? Is it possible if I used the wrong ones this could be a symptom of an incorrect sensor?

Hi, tyres are all the same size premium brands matched pairs front and back, All was well until the bearings were fitted. Wondering if it could have damaged the ABS pump on the drive back from the garage due to the bad feedback it was putting out through the pedal?

Just an idea, I had this on my dads Fabia, turned out to be the drivers CV joint, replaced and all was quiet! Just a thought if you've tried all other avenues and you're still having noise! :clap:

Hi everyone, My dad has a mk1 fabia 02 plate 1.4 MPi. He has had a garage change the wheel bearings due to a droning/vibrating noise from the front end. During doing this, the garage has made a bit of a mess and to cut a long story short, hes now left with a bit of a problem on the car. They have hammered the wheel bearing in rather than press fit it and seem to have caused a fault with the brakes which I cannot find. When I picked it up from the garage for him, the ABS light came on, and I got the red warning light also and the beeping sound, and feedback through the pedal as if the ABS was kicking in. Since then, I've personally replaced both front hubs complete with bearings and ABS kit (I'm sure they've used the wrong bearings, and to be honest I don't want the car ever going back there again) and replaced both ABS sensors with brand new ones. I've also replaced the driveshafts and CV's as this turned out to be the droning problem in the end, the drivers CV was completely shot. Now, there are no fault codes stored, and otherwise the car feels fine. But as soon as you brake, it feels as if the ABS is kicking in and pushing the pedal back at you, which obviously isn't right. The car braked fine before it went to the garage and I've replaced both hubs and ABS sensors, so I'm a bit baffled, the scanner shows no ABS codes at all. (I've got a decent scanner). He hasn't used the car for around 8 weeks now due to this issue, I've lent him mine when he needs it, but surely this can't be affected by how much its used surely? I know it can cause rusty discs, but not brake feedback. I've driven the car tonight and its quite horrible really, but no codes appear, so I'm pretty stumped really and I don't want to spend a fortune, just hoping its not the ABS pump or anything like that. Has anyone got any ideas or advice, as I've ran out myself now, and I wanna get the car sorted for him ASAP!!! Cheers! :clap: :p

Ah cack. If it turns out the dash is fubared then, how would I get it out? Tried search but nothing comes up. The surround won't come out so I can't get to the screws. I'm starting to hate this car now lol.

Hi there, Right, I've got a fault with the cruise control and instrument panel, not gonna go into loads of details but I've got an auto electrician coming round later and he's asked if I can get the instrument panel out as he has a spare to try (god knows why he's got a spare one for an octy) to try and diagnose the problem, The problem is I can't get the facia panel out (the plastic panel thats held on by two screws into the top of the dash that goes round the outside of the speedo unit) I just can't get it out, seems to be stuck or attached to something at the bottom somewhere. Also is there anything I need to be careful of when removing the instrument panel itself? I'm really desperate for help here and I'd really appreciate any advice!!!!! Thanks

No probs, could be bushes or CV joint if its a banging on lock. More likely to be a bush, the droplinks can be weak as well, had to do them on the wifes Golf Mk4. Just have a poke about with a pry bar and check for excessive play in the bushes, or if you're not comfortable with that, take it to a decent garage if you know of one and get them to have a look for you.

Really like both of those including yours Rob actually thought they were ultraleggeras until I studied the pic and thats not a bad thing at all! Really do like the twin 5 spokes I think I'd go for them myself, they would look spot on in anthracite or black on a black vRS. I like the OE look, or as close as!

Yeah try the N75 and 007p recirc first, they are a must if its been remapped, N75's are notoriously crap and often fail, I've had it happen on two vRS's now. As for the noise, it is a whine or a bang/clunk when you lock the wheels over?

Forge 007p recirc dump valve and a new N75 (F) valve, make sure you get the OEM version on the valve which has the F code in the part number, some people have had spiking issues and other things with the J and H valves, mines been remapped and I was advised to use the N75 F as mine was knackered, my god what a difference with the new one!

Usually works for about 6 months if you are very lucky, done it three times on my lasses golf and it wants doing again. Makes a cheap fix tho till the money is there to fix it, I can do it in half hour now start to finish. Practice makes perfect lol.

Brakelights work fine, didn't break the switch, not tried the clutch switch, fault codes were brake switch and speed sensor.

Just fitted a new VSS and brakelight switch, lights and speedo working correctly, but cruise control still won't set, do all the previous fault codes need to be reset before it will allow the cruise to be set? Also fitted a new N75f valve and my god what a difference, no surging and picks up tons quicker, peaks at around 20-21psi and holds 14-16psi ( not sure how accurate the gauge is but its transformed the car.)

Bit far then for you lol It's a massive difference, as said, make sure you got the money to get it done, you'll hate it being back to standard!

Agreed, sounds like oil pressure, I blew the oil pump on my last vRS at high speed, very high, got the flashing red oil light and a beep every few seconds, and somehow god only knows I was lucky enough to get away with it, even after limping the car another 5 miles to work and 18 miles home after work. Get it looked at asap, and try not to drive it, if it is the pump and it fails altogether then its gonna be hello Mr Barclaycard lol. Good luck with it, hope its not too expensive, don't take it to the stealers, it cost me £700+ for a new pump, strainer etc and labour. Won't be doing that again! lol

Hi mate, my new vRS has got a Stage 1 REVO remap, and even tho the N75 valve is knackered it feels much quicker than my old ex police vRS, you will definately notice a massive difference, they do tend to be quite aggressive from what I've heard tho, especially if someone has access to the REVO tool and ****es about with the settings (like someone had done on mine before I bought it) My car made 210 bhp and 236lb/ft with a knackered N75 valve and loss of some boost at high rpm (car has a cat back blueflame and jabba intake, and piper cams) 210bhp is the usual quoted figure with 230lb/ft of torque from a good stage 1 map. Another alternative is R-Tech in leicester, I've never read a bad report about them and I can say from my visit there last week, they really know what they're doing and talking about, and their own maps are more linear than the REVO from what I understand making it a lot more drivable and less laggy. If I was spending my own money I'd take mine to R-Tech, they even do REVO maps themselves now if you're decided on having one, their customer service and knowledge is excellent, can't recommend them highly enough mate. HTH a bit!

Just picked up the new N75 Valve which I ordered from Skoda last week, it looks nothing like the one thats fitted, it has a steel bracket with mounting holes on it and all the pipe connectors are in awkward places, The part number is 026906 283 J which is obviously the J version, according to Skoda, the correct standard valve for my car, to be honest, looking at it I'm not sure, can anyone confirm if this valve is the right one?

Correct, these are reps, nothing wrong with that at all, we have mk1 TT QS rep rims on the wifes golf and they are really smart. I actually really like these TT RS wheels and I'd be interested to see how they look on a mk1 vrs as I would like some!

Completely off topic, but how much has your car been lowered? Sits real nice, that's how I want mine to look when I drop it.

Mmmmmmmmm R32 seats! Looks spot on mate, can't imagine much trouble selling that.

Just tell her its 'special fuel' lol The only problem is when someone gives it large and you have a compelling urge to blast them into next week with the missus in the car!

You could try R Tech in leicester, top bunch and really know their stuff too. I'd highly recommend them. Had my car in last week and it was well worth the drive down, accurate rolling road too.

The rear wiped on my car is utter cack. I've tried three new blades and it still misses loads in the middle when it wipes. It looks different to the one I had on my 02 plate which worked fine, this one has a smooth arm with the blade inside it. Anyone know of a proper blade that works, or is it better to change the whole arm, don't care if it looks a bit poo just want a clear window now!