jibberwobble

OK Thanks for that, I have something to work with now which is a good start. Have run out of time this afternoon to pull it apart so it's a tomorrow job now. Will update with progress asap. Thank again

Brilliant thats actually very helpful thanks. I did wonder if that was a number for the reservoir, that code from the side of the reservoir is the only thing thats readable on my pump. I had a trawl through ebay and found pumps advertised with the 371 number so thought maybe is was a pump number after all but now I assume those sellers have all done the same thing as me and read the side of the reservoir. So my pump is most likely a 6Q0 423 156 (letter?) at an edumacated guesstimation! It doesnt help on the confusion front when you come across ads like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELECTRIC-POWER-STEERING-PUMP-TRW-AUDI-A2-LUPO-IBIZA-CORDOBA-SKODA-FABIA-/321234031122?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4acb0a5212#ht_13789wt_1162 Without knowing the number of my pump and not knowing for sure if other variants will work it's quite hard to know what to do. Given how many people struggle with this situation I was hoping that some may have some experience/knowledge of what all these variants are and indeed lots of second hand pumps only have the reservoir number available to see so who knows what you are actually buying. On top of this I've been and had it scanned twice, first time...... err I think you need to start by changing the column! Second time......."the pump ecu is getting power but no response from it what so ever". His vcds would not read the angle sensor bit either which he thought may be because the car is too old. I have a little basic VAG scanner myself and it wont read the steering assist in any way shape or form but then my car (diesel ADT engine) is 2001/2 so may not be fully compliant anyway being pre 2006 so who knows????? It's a 6Y5 if that helps at all but to be honest I havent got my head around what all this 6Y bla bla stuff means anyway. If I have enough time today I'll take the pump off and pop the top off just in case its a simple circuit board repair job. Dont know what else to try other than start buying random pumps in the hope they can be persuaded to talk to my car.

Anyone?????

Hi all, just dragging this thread up again to help keep PAS issues on fabias findable. I am 99% sure I need to replace the pump. Mine is a TRW 6Q0 423 371 but have come across variations on this theme as follows........... 6R0 423 371 6Q0 423 156 6R0 423 156 Can anyone tell me if I need to find the exact same number or will any of those do the job?

Mine tries to work sometimes and when it seems partial and intermtent I would say that it is perfectly possible to describe the feedback it gives as being very similar to what you've described there. Thats just a random punt though so dont take it as gospel.

Not been down there yet to have a look where it is on the rack but from what has been said above unplugging the sensor will..... A. tell you if the pump works B. give you assisted steering until you arrive at a proper solution.

Help topic HERE Eliminating the pump ecu sounds like a good plan, how do you go about disconnecting the sensor for some experiments? Edit..... Err I dont mean how do you unplug a plug, even a thickit like me can work that out! Do you have to set/adjust something else for the pump to run without sensor?

When you get itchy feet I can swap you a foot scratcher for your old mota if you like?

Looked at it in grey, not my cup of tea 'battleship'. Then looked at the blue one, lovely colour indeed....... but For some reason although I love that blue and dislike the grey I'm finding this grey/black look rather pleasing and aggressive especially on those rims. Given the choice I'd be jumping in the grey one, maybe the blue is just too pretty after seeing it in sinister mode.

Sorry this is a bit late now but yes you can get the micro switch out in seconds

Take it you havent got access to rivets/pliers then? Rivnuts would work a treat to convert over to a bolted system but then if you could put them in you'd most likely be set up to just rivet the thing in the first place. Very quick job if you have rivet pliers though.

Yes had to remove the carrier, mine is bolted I found a guide when looking for info on the broken window regulator, let me know if you cant find it and I'll go look. To remove the carrier I think you'll need to detach the window and all that guff to get decent access to the lock unit. In a breakers yard not having to worry about being able to put it back together it was only taking about 4 - 5 mins to get the mechanism out. My lock mechanism definitely had water in it but oddly the one I used from the breakers was dry.

Sheeeeiiit 50 a day!! they must have been nose to tail all the way. One of the cleaners at work used to sit and light one off another all day long saying "cancer come and get me" with a chuckle as he went. You just know he'll be one of the ones that get away with it. Good luck Big Jase be :strong:

This is Octavia but may be of some help to you for reference - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/

Size of the switch is 20 x 12.7 x 6.4mm Or approx 3/4 x 1/2 x 1/4"

Apologies for the delay life is busy! Firstly I'm no expert in any of this so you're likely to get better advice from others on here! I dont think the door electrics have any direct influence on the PAS. My PAS has continued to do similar random things sinse the door was fixed and even with the door completely unplugged. I'll have a go at replicating what you are talking about with the door not completely shut Pulse but at a guess wonder if that coulod be just the switch in limbo at the on/off point? steering just causing a slight movement of the car or somethiing, god knows. I am pretty sure my switch was ok and it was the dry solder joint that 60greyhound mentioned above. Pics of the switch, it's just clipped in with that metal tab that coveres it

Back this avo with some pictures and guff, sorry gotta run just now :(

OK got some bits done yesterday. At the breakers I found the lock mechanism in a much newer car laying on the seat with bent arms so rescued the micro switch but then found another car straight away with only 66k on it and retrieved the whole lock mechanism. They let me test it in the car park. Paid a tenner for it with a small pile of other little bits n bobs. Lock in, door carrier sealed with silicon, window reattached to the fixed regulator, door card on. Then fixed the broken fuel flap/release. All works perfect so well happy with that. Got the other doors to seal up yet. PAS has popped back into life briefly on start up a few times recently. The guy I bought it off said it came up with fault codes for the pump and sensor which seems to be fairly common even when the pump is ok so with a bit of luck It'll just be wiring or sensor. Didn't get an more info than that though so if I cant see anything obvious I'll get the codes read again myself. Don't plan on buying anything for it without being reasonably sure I need it though. My plan of attack is to start by following some wires about and checking connections plus finding the sensor and asking it kindly to behave it's self. Yes rack full of water has got to be a favourite it would seem. I'm not finding it that bad driving without PAS tbh, it's only parking and tight junctions that take a little longer, I have strong elastic bands in my skinny arms! Pump attack next w/e......

OK leaving the steering til I can have a day of not pulling it to bits in the rain knowing it's all got to be back together in time for work. Next w/e reserved for that one. Gonna pop in to a couple of breakers today and pull a couple of door lock mech's out. The breakers local to work will only charge a couple of quid for items llike that so even if it doesnt work it'll give me a chance to repair the switch in one whilst leaving another in the car (only get a short window each day). I dont know if it's the switch or not but not having anything else to go on I may as well change it or at least look at the old one before hunting for bad connections. So does anyone know if other VAG cars use the same unit? this would give me quite a wide range of potential donors.

Obviously if you had any form of recording device in your car and you happened to get involved in somethiong where people were hurt or property lost or damaged in a big way you'd be some sort of ****hole to not provide the police with the evidense they need, to some degree the same scenario as calling the cops if you see someones house neing broken into. Yep thats great, no brainer, help where you can. The trouble is when you go out of your way to think of others and make efforts to help build a nicer world for everyone it often ends up coming back on you in an unexpected way. There are many ways this happens and the posts above certainly make a point. You could be in your car the very same week you gave the rozzers a nice tasty vid of Mr thug forcing someone off the road and then be in a possition where you make an error yourself be it inadvertantly or not, could be late for work and going a touch fast, could of just made an error of judment, hasty decision, not caused an accident but have however been a bit silly, naughty or stupid. You get pulled, Mr copper see's your device and decides he's going to take it as evedence to use against you. Fair enough if you get a sensible one he will just tick you off and realise you're not actually trying to kill every one on the roads without a care in the world but.......... what if you get a jobsworth retard with a chip on his shoulder and a point to make against say people with spikey hair, folk that drive green cars, have tinted windows, or obviously more money than him. Then you have a problem and if this bell end wants make something of nothing your stuffed. This is the real world, we are all people and we all mess up, anyone that claims they dont ever make mistakes is either a liar or very deluded. You dont always need some big head to come along and treat you like a fool for being a **** on the odd accasion. Anyone with any morals and self respect will beat themselves up without outside intervention if they know they have genuinely done wrong by someone. I do agree that there are a huge amount of people around these days that are just blatently horrible nasty selfish scumbags and will do whatever it takes to make out that it's not them thats in the wrong, including paerents of out of control kids and will back there yobbo's up even if they know their child has just set fire to all the bikes in the rack at school. However, there is a need to protect yourself against the do gooders that arent able to tell the difference between Mary Poppins and Cruella Deville. And yes I have had direct experience of what I'm talking about.

I'm with Snow_muncher. It's funny how stuff like this is quietly sneaked into our lives and slowly nurchered until one day you turn around and see all the sheep believing the latest intrusion as 'normal', bleat on and dont even realise whats happening. Sounds like a do-gooders paradise to me

Just had a quick look between other things, the battery is a Bosch silver 75ah and looks quite new. Puts out 12.6v, Alternator looks quite fresh also, getting 14.6v with the motor running. Earth looks fine and no corrosion to be seen anywhere but will give the fixings all a clean up when I go back out. Unfortunately I'm not a sparky and need to work out how to understand resistance?? My meter has quite a few ranges and I dont know what setting I should be using? Really wanting to get the door back together so if anyone has any comments on my first question in post #1 regarding the micro switch that would be rather smashing Power steering is still US with nothing on the door connected at all.

In the week my drivers window done the crunching and getting stuck thing, came on here, bought some parts and have the window regulator all fixed but....... since I have owned the car (only a few weeks) the drivers door doesnt normally fire up the interior light, kerb light or headlight buzzer. So whilst it is in bits I may as well get this sorted too. OK when the plug is connected the various lights arent triggered by opening the door most of the time nut occasionally they do work, when the plug is connected, if I wiggle it the interior and kerb lights come on and go off. If I wiggle the plug a little bit I can get the interior light to stay on but can also hear relay(s) clicking on and off but dont see anything physical hapening? So My question is: Is this a normal situation for a faulty micro switch or could this be a bad connection of some sort? (bearing in mind the plug looks fine and have given it a good squirt of WD. Also whilst I'm on the subject of the door and some odd side affects. My power steering is also US, I have not investigated this yet but have always felt it just to be a wiring or sensor issue after having grilled the previous owner and done some reading. The car has had two sensors in the past at fairly even mileage intervals and is now at a theoretical sensor change interval once more. I am reluctant to just buy a sensor before fully investigating though, On the day my window fubarred it's self and was busy chewing everything up inside the door it came to a point where it sounded like the motor was being overloaded and at that point all the switches in the door inc their lights shut down, flicking the door lock button brought it all back to life. I had now arrived at work so dragged the window up to the top, jammed it there with a plastic spreader and left it to sulk. When I left work I got in and started up, in auto pilot mode I hit the window switches to lower and raise them (clears the dew away nicely) and was reminded of the failure by more crunching and then the switches cutting out again. at this point I noticed out the corner of my eye something changing on the dash which I think was the normal PAS light coming on but usually it comes on with ignition and stays on, there was nothing else to see so concluded the light wasnt on until I messed with the window. Then I moved the steering wheel and bugger me if the PAS hadnt popped into life! Dash light was still on and the door was brought back to life by flicking the lock button again, power steering still working :wonder: PAS worked all the way home and all the way back to work that night, next morning was buggered again and hasnt worked since. So given that the PAS fault is quite often a wiring/connection related thing I cant help but think all this door trouble has caused a temporary re-connecting (maybe through arching etc) of a poor joint somewhere? At least I now know that there cant be anything that terrible wrong with the PAS! Just thought I'd throw that one out there as someone may have some similar experience. Sorry for the long story but being thorough will save many questions I'm sure

Thanks for the welcomes

How about One of the Mira test circuits? Very big loops with bends that require no steering (from straight ahead) the Spanish one is biggest I think http://goo.gl/maps/CuVQS next one tomorrow