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mark4

Finding my way
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Everything posted by mark4

  1. That is not the engine code. That is merely a serial number. The Gen2 code for 1.8TSI is CDAA. You should try to identify the engine code it is usuall 3-4 characters long. However, I would be amazed if they were able to fit a later model 1.8TSI engine to the older Suberb. The Gen3 engine has a higher power output 180hp vs the 160hp for the Gen2. That being said it might be difficult to determine the engine internals, unless there is a receipt or statement from Skoda Workshop that built the engine.
  2. The design was changed from 2013 onwards. The correction procedure for the Gen2 engine for the oil consumption is actually to switch to the Gen1 pistons & piston rings. If the parts for the new engine was obtained from official dealer and the parts were sourced after 2013 you should be safe. However, if it is an engine produced 2012 and before (or a used engine, that has not ben overhauled) you may have the issue. If it does not consume excessive oil you should be good to go with respect to the oil consumption. Timing chain issues has different symptoms, like misfire, in worst case damage to valves if they get out of timing with respect to the crankshaft/pistons.
  3. My vote is on replacing the oil rings on the pistons. I had excessive oil consumption on my 1.8TSI. The infamous CDAA / 888 Gen2. I got it sorted out by Skoda. They replaced new pistons, new pistonrings, connecting rods, timing chain. 100% of the parts and 70% of labour was covered by Skoda. You should not buy a car with the Gen2 engine (years 2009 - 2012), unless the piston rings has been exchanged for another design. There is a lot of information on the topic available. The limit for the maintenance recall was 2000km/ 1 l of oil.
  4. I would say that in your case there has not been any Camber adjustment done. At least on Octavia mk II and newer there are for sure rear camber adjustment possible. The front camber can also be to a very small extent adjusted by losening the subframe bolts and moving the subframe laterally. Probably the front lower wishbone balljoints have some adjustment too. Good thing that the thrust angle is straight. I would also opt for a neutral toe-in close to 0. In case the car is hard to keep in lane check/replace the rear control rods and wishbone bushes.
  5. It did not seem to have any difference with the breaks. I examined the rear wishbone bushes and the left one seemed more worn than the right one. I got a new wishbone for rear left wheel and i plan to replace it tomorrow. I imagine the left rear wheel takes most of the beating with all the hard corners to right. The car is driven only roughly 70.000 km. I could not imagine it to wear out so soon. The tightening of the control arm outer bolt 90NM + 90 degrees. The inner adjustment bolt nut is 95NM.
  6. Sometimes a worn constant velocity causes wobbling. I take it the tires are balanced. I have also experienced wobbling with non-uniformed tyres. But if the problem remains with your winter tyres, try to check out the CWs.
  7. Hello, I have a similar topic with my octavia 2 FL estate model year 2011. On four wheel adjustment/measurement there was a sudden change in the rear left angle values. more like 30minutes of camber. and 10-20 minutes of toe-in/toe out. I tried kicking separately the left wheel and right wheel. The left wheel moved on impact more compared to the right wheel. My car is LHD one. Any ideas which bush is loose? Granted there is nothing loose in the centimeter range but when you kick the tyre i can see the tyre oscillating in range of multiple millimeters. Or at least more than the other side. Any nice tools available to probe each joint for firmness?
  8. I have to agree, that it is the interior of the new mk3 Octavia that causes concerns. Somehow the MK2 FL (which I happen to own (L&K)) feels much better. The main issues are the steeringwheel and the dashboard. The new Superb would also be good if it wasn't for the new steeringwheel. The seat fabric is not so good either. The interior door handles also feel a bit cheap, while the top of the door panels otherwise are ok. I have to agree with the consensus that Skoda should really take a look at the Volvo interiors. The mk3 is a step backward. All the new tech like, lane assistant, crash-protection, new engines are a step in the right direction. I really hope that we see a facelift in next 2 years that addresses the interiors. As for the driveline. Where are the RS engine setups paired with 4-wheel drive? As for the Superb, when will Skoda replace the 170hp TDI engine with the new 184hp TDI, and the 200HP with the new 220HP TSI? 4WD + start-and-stop option for the petrol variants too, not just the diesel. In urban traffic you get the biggest savings on CO2 with the more powerful petrol engines.
  9. The local dealer had the car badged Elegance. It seems to be the the Finnish Elegance. In Finland we have Active, Ambition and Elegance (and maybe L&K in a few years for the new 2013 model, i hope.) Finland having a relatively high tax rate on new cars, so the local distributor may have chopped off a thing or two. I remember that the 2.0TDI DSG Elegance cost in excess of 34k€ with delivery surchage. The Finnish price list you can find here: http://www.skoda.fi/files/pdf/Uusi_Skoda_Octavia-hinnasto.pdf?timestamp=942013_175619 However, Skoda badges the car I was mildly dissapointed with the upholstery, comparing to Octavia I with elegance spec and Octavia 2 FL in L&K with Alcantara + leather seats.
  10. Hello, I share the consensus on this one. Read my blog: http://newoctavia2013review.blogspot.fi/
  11. Hello, It seems that I am not the only one with exactly the same problem on the rear wiper: The problem occurs more frequently on bumps, cold and wet wheather. http://w3ww.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=39341
  12. Hello, I have the same problem on my 1.8T Octy 2004 hatchback. The rear wiper just goes on intermittently. What could bring down the control signal to earth? A faulty switch behind the steering column? Are there any connetions? I already replaced once the rear wiper motor once as it overheated. In order to check the rear wiper switch I would have to remove the steeringwheel, which is cumbersome. Any ideas? The rear wiper switch seems to operate but there is somewhere a short to ground of the control signal, but where? Could you be more specific what LHR means?
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