moanthebairns

The Vrs has developed a wandering throttle. At tick over when warm it starts to rise to 1500 RPM, it then dips or stays on till you blip the throttle. At first it would only happen once or twice in a 20 mile drive to work. Now its more predominant. Sometimes getting up to 2000 rpm. Never an issue once the car is up to speed. Compressing the clutch doesn't alter this. Anyone had this? I'm thinking plugs, leads, fuel filter to start with. But any areas that I should go to first. (all of the above are due to get changed) could a 9 year old battery do this? I've had this before on bikes, the battery starts to go and similar symptoms. But I am unsure if this would make the blindest bit of difference.

Onto my third one in two years of ownership, its a bit ridiculous, its the Same rear corner. So the question is do I need it. Will the increased dust cause the abs sensor to becone damaged or do I need to just watch out for damaging it when cutting it off. The garage cut one off before and soon after my abs light came resulting in a new hub. Cosmetically I don't care. I did come up with a genius idea of drilling the shield and cable tying it to various components in place, it works for my track bike after I've crashed. Sadly they all snapped or caused it to rub more. That's an hour of my life wasted.

I've owned mines for about 15 months now, I think I've washed it once, maybe twice. Its not particularly quick, but with 255 bhp, its not exactly slow compared with what's on the road, its comfy, decently built, the suspension is comical when at speed but never causes alarm but best of all is the boot and the size of the thing. Its practicality is awesome, it utterly swallows the stuff I take to track days, it manages it with no hassle at all returning 30 mpg at least. its even quite comfortable to sleep in when you pull in late at a track. I can see why a lot like them, its doesn't excel at anything but its does everything well and looking at the market there is nothing in its price range that comes close.

Ever thought about giving up Golf? I mean lets face it, you spend 4 hours knocking a tiny ball about with a stick dressed like a berk and its your cars fault?

Dear God, who cares, in the nicest possibly manner. Yes you are correct, but I cant believe anyone would be so anal about MPG in a vrs. Mines is 2007 petrol remapped, I get 27 around town, sometimes 35 on the motorway and about 29 if I boot it everywhere. I'll get anywhere between 300 - 360 miles on a tank. of course these are rough figures. But we really are splitting hairs aren't we. It doesn't really make that much of a difference does it, you still have to fill it up when it needs it and if you are that concerned about buying a car with decent MPG you wouldn't have bought a vrs.

I have these, I'll be lucky to get 10 k out the front but find that with any tyres on any of my cars I've owned. id say the F1's are better marginally in the wet, but you wont notice the difference in the dry. for £75 a corner its a cracking tyre. lets be honest, if you buy a decent tyre from one of the big tyre companies you cant go wrong.

I would now like to close this as i am a retard and found all the parts on ebay. I'm so sorry

YES

Never thought of it that way, I flippantly assumed you had to increase pressure when towing.

I need to replace my side repeater indicator, the cover is smashed at the bulb. do I just need one part and how do you remove the glass?

quickie, I tried googling but comes back with loads of different answers so I'm asking you towers what psi would you run whilst towing this 200 kg track bike including full tank of fuel 100 kg trailer wets on wheels, tools, spares, 2 jerricans of fuel, helmets, leathers etc roughly 200-250 kg two people - 200kg at most.

I also have this, it was like a mill pond. :sun:

disc and pads in 70,000 miles. I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I cant explain why they were changed so often before as its a used car.

turns out it was the sliders that's 5 sets of discs in its history this car has had. anyone else had this wear rate

a few days ago I'm on the motorway and suddenly there is a vibration at the wheel. Hmm I think have I got a flat. After a mile it goes. Never reappears until last night. Driving along at 60 and a much more pronounced shudder. Pull in when I can to find all tyres inflated but a burning smell. Bugger a sticky caliper I think. Anyway drive off and get back up to 70 and no shudder again. this is a bit weird. My experience with binding brakes is that they do it all the time not once ever 250 miles. obviously the easy answer is to jack it up and spin the wheels and see if it sticks. But anyone had this sporadic binding. Ive rebuilt calipers dozens of times on the bikes but and braking issue has always been there all the time. Not once every 250 miles as I say.

Good news! It finally snowed, quite a bit as well last week, or the week before I cant remember. So I was out driving about, a inch or so at most, and the winter tyres were fine. However as no one else around here puts them on your stuck behind cars, so wtf is the point. nil, yes if you live in the sticks, fling them on, but if you live in a place that has snow once maybe twice a year, I wouldn't bother your arse. anyone who says that its dangerous having summer tyres on is a ****ing tard. I wonder about the calibre of driver on here at sometimes. When people say making progress, id love to see what they mean.

a lot of it was deleted by the moderator. shame....

Falkens so not too end. I spend a good few grand in tyres each year, mainly for the track. Having winters is the bottom of my priorities list I'd sooner have a decent set of track tyres.

I have winters on as I bought it with them. Whilst it is much better on snow and ice at getting out my street I can't say i had much bother on low profile summer tyres before. My biggest problem with winters is they are ******* appalling if you push the car when conditions are fine. Fling in 300 pounds of torque and a heavy foot and I can make them spin on a wet road in 5th. Above 90 and the tread block movement is horrendous. And yes I know they aren't meant for driving like that but let's face it when you haven't had a track day in 3 months and your bikes are off the road you get bored easily poodling about. If you live in the wilderness thend yes get winters. If like me you live central Scotland like me where they grit the roads then don't bother. As if it's that bad you can't get around those who don't have winters.

Reason being, its easier to catch under steer than lift off over steer. However if your getting 17k out of a set of front tyres I doubt you're the kinda guy who does a Scandinavian flick at roundabouts so little to worry about.

It took seconds when I flipped it the right way around

ah so I might have been putting it on the wrong way around

at almost 4 o'clock to the steering wheel is the little compartment. I can get the box out, but its connecting the hinge again that is the problem. I found a spring on the drive, but I only have one. There doesn't seem to be any lugs snapped off. As I say the bottom box section is fine and complete. its only the little flap you push to open this compartment that I cant relocate to make it shut again.

Yes, you know the little storage thingy next to the steering wheel. Well I had it open getting my fags out and I must not have shut it whilst leaving the car, the next thing a bit of trim comes off and I cant get it back on. Anyone done this, I'm quite ashamed I couldn't get it back in, I've taken many bike fairings off and on in minutes, this should be a doddle but in the freezing cold and dark I couldn't get it back o n. Am I missing something, does it have a spring or latch All I have is the black bit of trim. I think I really need photos to illustrate

4,000 after 10 minutes are you serious.....I mean for the love of .... I once whilst fitting a new throttle tube to my track bike had set it up full on so when I started the engine it redlined at 14,000 rpm. A season of track days and its still fine.