BlackOutPaul

Hey, thanks for the link. However, it says that is for "manual window cars" - mine has electric front windows - will that be an issue? ANTI HIJACK The anti hijack is a superb feature.... [select] [46 - Cent. Conv.] (35 - Cent. Locking for manual window cars) [Adaptation - 10] Channel (03..08) Adaptation Value (1 = on, 0 = off) [save] Channel 03 Auto Lock Channel 04 Auto Unlock Channel 05 Unlock, horn sounds Channel 06 Lock, horn sounds Channel 07 Unlock, turn signals flash Channel 08 Lock, turn signals flash Remember to do a scan of the module on each one to find out what each channel is, prior to making any changes as some cars beep is channel 7, not channel 6.

Hey guys, Can anyone please tell me how / if it's possible to activate the auto lock / unlock doors after speeding up?

Alex is actually right. In countries such as Romania, some Skoda models have been sold with an optional "bad roads" kit. I don't know however exactly what was contained. Alex, you could maybe ask your local Skoda dealer about it?

Finally did it at a body shop. Turned they were finished - had new after market ones fitted and painted. Pleased with the results after 2 months.

Another picture from a recent meeting with friends. @Alex: I'm having as much fun with mine as you are - although mine suffered from a "common" oil pan leakage which has been fixed yesterday by a mechanic (cleaned up and resealed with 2+2 black gasket). Other than that, loving the ~55 bhp (I think after 13 years that's what it's left with) P.S. My dashbard doesn't squeak - it rumbles just a little bit.

Hello from Romania! Sorry, but didn't have one just with the car

Transfagarasan Bravo, Alex!

Salut! Bine ai venit!

Thanks! But not really helpful I was wondering if someone else did it / has pictures of the removal of the fender.

Hello to all of you, I am sorry but I haven't found a topic on this. I have a little rust problem on my front fenders both right and left right at the bottom near the doors. Does anyone have an example of how to remove / repair rust / refit a Fabia fender? I'd like to take a look before in order to understand if / how it can be done. Thanks!

Sounds pretty much like mine does - no problems here.

It's a conspiracy! --- Been wondering the same thing about mine Maybe it's more aerodynamic :P

Fine then... use tractor oil I'm kidding, of course. Oil is indeed oil - if it's the right specification for the car and changed when it should be changed, it's all good. Also, on an off-topic note, I was using Elf 15W-40 in my old car (an Oltcit Club 11 - AKA Citroen Axel) and it was doing a good job as well.

Been using Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 since I got her one year ago. Results: very good - did not pinch the oil, did not have to top up at all. Conclusion: Saturday we're changing the oil again, Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 is my choice (also the recommendation from my local Skoda dealer).

I usually give my Furbie a good revving when the temps are up, especially in third gear, cause I just love the engine sound so much (I don't know why but my 1,4 OHV sounds good for me) when it's keeping around 3200 rpm. Also, I've found that by keeping the revs a bit more raised the car performs better and actually the consumption is a bit better than in the lower rpms.

Thanks for the fast responses from all. Hey KenONeill, Thank you for the opinion! Yeah, you're right - I have absolutely no idea when the coolant was changed by the previous owner. Indeed, taking into account the costs and that they offer a warranty for their work (although I don't think that our laws are the same as in UK, but that doesn't matter). I now have an official Skoda dealer appraisal for the work that needs to be done. I will just wait to have my next paycheck and register an appointment with them for the operations. I will let you know the results.

Hah, ok - I get it. Seems as though I didn't search enough through the forum. Well anyway - my dad and I switched cars for a day so he could get to the Skoda dealership which is right across the road from where he works. The people were really ok and electronically diagnosed my vehicle for free (cause my father's car is new from them) - they only charged for the half hour spent checking the car (they looked over the sensors, wires and levels and also they did not see leaks) - they charged like 5 GBP for the check. So their recommendation is this: - change coolant expansion tank (which also contains the sensor); - complete drain and cleanup of the cooling system (they can do it with a solution); - change the antigel (that's what we call it - you know it as coolant) which is about 5 litres; They said that the cost of the tank with sensor, plus coolant, plus the cleanup and work costs is around 42 GPB. Take into consideration that a new coolant tank with sensor here is about 12.5 GBP. Also, the cost of coolant / litre is 3.5 GBP. What do you think? Is it too much / too little? Should I do it at the dealership?

Hello guys, Since yesterday (when it got below 1 degree Celsius outside in the morning) when I first start my car up in the morning the cooling light on the instrument panel blinks and gives 3 beeps. At first I just stopped the engine and opened the bonnet. I took a look at the cooling expansion tank and saw that the coolant level was at the minimum level. I added about 300 ml of concentrated G12+ that I bought from a local car parts store. The level went over the minimum. After using the car for a few minutes and stopping then restarting the engine, the blinking doesn't start again and no beeps are given. I checked the coolant level again after the temperature gauge was at half (which should be 90 degrees Celsius and no, it did not go over that temperature) and the coolant level was just a tiny bit over maximum level. This means that the circuit is working correctly, and the temperature valve is working, letting the coolant flow. But this morning, the same thing happened - when starting the car the first time in the morning, the blinking cooling light started again with the initial 3 beeps. After going for 2-3 minutes towards work, I noticed the temperature gauge was nearing the quarter point, and I stopped the engine at a red light. When starting the engine again after the red light went to green, the blinking did not start again. I've thought about what can be wrong and I don't get it exactly - the engine is completely cold (so it can't be an overheating problem) and also the coolant level this morning was over the minimum point. Can you help with some suggestions?

Guys... are you sure about this (don't want to offend anyone)? On mine - the aerial unscrews, but then it's like it's fixed to the car, like it only unscrews so you can flip it down (I read that you need to unscrew something from inside the car to get it off) - but mine is a 2002 6Y2 AZF 1.4 8V - could be totally different from the vRS. Can you tell me how mine comes off?

Some picture I took a bit back.

Will you take my night photos? (you have full permission to use the photos and I have higher resolution available)