Structures

Fantastic, thanks Mike! I'll have a look in the week and see if I can get it sorted.

I had my DPF gutted and remapped by TVS in Tamworth...I would highly recommend them, and I'd also highly recommend getting it done...As people have said, it's a night and day difference.

These were my reasons, I also like the clean whiteness of the light compared to the beige/yellow of an incandescent. I know a guy who has VCDS, whereabouts should we be looking to disable the cold bulb test for the number plate lights? (It is that that I need to disable isn't it?)

Mine's a 59 plate...:-(

Handy to know. Is it easy to find the option to turn it off?

So, I fitted some allegedly CANbus compatible LED number plate lights only to be greeted by a bulb warning light...Is there a way to prevent this? Strap some resistors around the bulb holder to fake a standard bulb maybe?

How easy would that be to achieve? I am not particularly mechanically minded...Will the system drop coolant all over my drive when I disconnect them from the matrix?

This is something that a friend checked for me, they aren't heating up.

Keen to see how these turn out, sound quality wise and useability wise also. Is there an Android version so I can use Waze with it?

The engine gets to standard running temperature and stays there. The heater spits out air that can best be described as 'tepid'.

Anyone else got any recommendations? Or any advice about the issue for that matter?

Hullo, I've just taken my car to Lion Garage in Hinckley as the heater isn't working. I'm informed that it's potentially the head gasket pressurising the heating system, but AFAIK they haven't done any tests to check for exhaust gas in the coolant and the coolant itself is relatively clear. There's no way in hell I'm willing to pay them for 12+ hours exploratory work to strip the engine down and check if the head is cracked etc without a little more reassurance that that is the correct course of action. I've been running torque to monitor coolant temperature and it sits happily between 80-90 degrees. Does anyone around the area have a tame and knowledgeable mechanic who could give me a second opinion? Engine is a CR170

Take them out, pull out the bulbs and covers etc and leave them somewhere warm and dry?

Nice location, this shot in particular is great... :-) If my car was ever clean enough for long enough this is the kind of place I'd take pictures of it...

The discovery that our grumpy old drawing checking clerk does burlesque dancing as a hobby. Although I'm obviously quite glad I found this out via conversation at work as opposed to by attending a burlesque night and seeing it first hand...

The blower is blowing like anything...But the air coming out of it can best be described as tepid. The car heats up, but I can't work out where the heat is coming from...Maybe the footwell vents? Although I can't feel it coming from them.

My heating is currently not working, which is giving me the fear that I might have a head gasket issue...I've recently had to replace the tyres, have it serviced etc etc. In short, I was also becoming a little less fond of my VRS...The solution that worked for me was this, a bit difficult to replicate in its entirety but I reckon you could easily achieve the second half of the solution without much trouble. 1) Have a drunk driver reverse into your car (twice) which will cause you to scream expletives at him, call the police and claim from his insurance to have the repairs paid for. 2) Make sure you get a Toyata Avensis for a courtesy car, this is the most necessary part of the procedure, it can be accomplished by telling the insurance company that you require a 'like for like' replacement. 3) Drive the Avensis for any distance. 4) Attempt to overtake someone, or corner enthusiastically. If you follow steps 3 and 4 you should be willing to part with a decent amount of cash to continue driving a car that doesn't make you die a little bit every time you turn the ignition.

I'm in Tamworth, working in Hinckley.

I am so in if this happens!

The Octavia is based on the Golf chassis platform, which is what the Mk refers to...:-)

These are what i got : http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/tt-uprated-wishbone-console-bushes-for-golf-mk5-platform.html For that you'll need to push the old bushes out of the mount and push these in, which is an absolute b**** (I ended up finding a friendly garage with a pneumatic press) but apart from that it's a pretty quick job and cheap. The other option is this: http://www.awesomegti.com/whiteline-anti-lift-kit-golf-mk5-mk6-kca316-walk Should bolt straight on, but the cost difference is pretty hefty. You'll need your alignment checked after doing that though remember...Plus, make sure you torque all the bolts up otherwise you'll get the most hilarious/unsettling torque steer.

Replacing the console bushes on the front wishbones with the solid bushes from a TTrs or RS4, makes the steering less vague...It's a cheap mod that has reasonable returns, especially if you do it when you need your console bushes replaced anyway.

I think most people will say: 1) Whiteline Rear Anti-roll bar 2) Re-map 3) Some form of lowering springs/coilovers. I've done none of these myself so far, but they're all on my list.

No worries :-)

Well, the offer is there...Leicester isn't too much of a trek for me and I doubt it's a huge job to swap them over? :-)