Schodoodles

I used this as well; along with the rest of their products for paint and glass and don't recommend anything else. If you register with Detailing World you also get 10% discount; just post in the forum to get it added to your account.

The name is a bit misleading. It's not the bluetooth connection to the car it affects but the phone's connection to the GSM network that this assists with. When I have my phone in my pocket the GSM can be ay 2-3 bars, but when using my bluetooth+ box it jumps up at least 1 bar. So leaving it in your phone in your pocket doensn't take advantage of this feature. It's similar to those phone holders with coild in to do the same function; this just then leads upto the antanna on the roof. But as Wiggos said the symbol indicates you've got this extra featue, and if you don't have satnav but the aerial on theroof is there then you definately have it as this is where the GSM and GPS antennas are located.

This might help.... http://bit.ly/1oiOc5L

If you use the diagram and fuse numbers in the manual/handbook it should give you a good idea but previous models have had a reversed fusebox but think it looked relatively accurate when I did mine. The dashcam thread I found on Briskoda suggested the rear-wiper for a switched live and this is what I used. Can't remember the number though sorry. It was low down on the fuse box though on the left hand side of a pair next to each other.

Stick to ebay. The blade holders are quick to fit and saves haven't to dismantle any fuse box bits. Then it allows easy and quick removal when/if needed. This is the one I got for mine; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-Circuit-Fuse-Tap-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Fuse-Holder-ATO-ATC-12v-24v-/400757936254?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Terminals_Cabling_ET&hash=item5d4f08d07e Get some spare fuses at the same time. I put the things in wrong first go and managed to blow one and gave me a few head scratching moments as to why the damn thing wasn't powering up.

No you've got the wrong end of the stick. Once the side panel is off just put a screw driver under the plastic bar the 'screw'/I slot shape is connected to and push up. This then detaches the slow release mechanism of sorts from the car. You then need to give the thing a firm tug to then release the clamps on the hinge. Do one side at a time. Mine didn't need too much force. The fun is getting it back in and then putting that damn bar back on without the thing spinning and popping out of the hole!

Have a look at the 'TechMoan' videos; he has quite a few reviews and may have one on there for this. I certainly know there are some that film in front and the cabin behind though as I saw one when perusing for mine on YouTube. I believe they're very popular with cabbies for obvious reasons. May have even been from a link on the Briskoda forums.

I use mediamonkey and that works fine as long as I attach the photo to the file; its free and grabs the album artwork from the web. Give that a go. Believe it has to be of the correct size to be shown on the screen though but it normally sorts that itself.

No, simply put. They will give you the best price minus any of the offers. I managed to get them to agree to the discount and then they also offered to give me a price for the 0%, free servicing and breakdown included. As it was in line with what I expected for 3 years of servicing plus the cost of the loan I'd need to obtain as I wasn't buying outright (might have been £100 more I think) but the less hassle seemed worth it.

I used both CarFile and DriveThe Deal to bargain with my dealer to match the price and give me the best price I could get thought CarWow did give some interesting prices. I printed out quotes for the spec I wanted and showed them the price to which they then matched quite easily. Interestingly also a Nottingham dealer as well.

Thanks Andy. Glad I checked. May take the plunge and order while cheap and then mull buying VCDS or ask a forum member or two if they've do a trade of their time to encode the for beer or something. I assume the VCDS is still a £265 kit for a legit working copy? Or would a copy of VCDS lite and a compatible cable suffice as 99$ would be something I'd happily fork out given the functionality? Thanks!

Hi, Had a quick look and doesn't look as if anyone has asked this yet. Can you replace the rear standard light clusters with LED ones without any issues in voltages, warnings or having to do any programming in VCDS? Given the Supaskoda discount weekend I'm tempted to fork out as it's one of the few things I wish I had ordered from new. I'm assuming it's a standard job of peeling back trim, un-doing the nuts and taking the electrical plug off before sliding out the existing cluster and then putting the new LED version in its place and then reversing the installation steps? (Based on previous experience of replacing rear bulbs on another car before). Thanks! John

I checked car file, car wow and drive the deal but then just took any quotes with me to my local dealer. My local dealer then matched the price and gave me another price including the 0% finance and free servicing. I then got to do some number crunching and decide on the deal I wanted. In the end the exta for the 'free' servicing and doing the finance through Skoda at 0% was about the same as me financing it elsewhere and a rough servicing price I had already scoped plus a little more convenient in terms of servicing as I'd been ripped off locally a few times when trying to find a reputable garage.

I thought this as soona s I read the OP's first post. Mine is in Slot 1 on the left and works fine.

If you're hooking these upto the car all the time it would be worth ordering the super capacitors for them as it saves the battery getting hammered. It's a 5 minute job to swap things over if that. I used the JooVuu store for speed on these as they don't cost too muh. Also, these do motion detection so can be used with the power boxes as well if you want it on all the time though there are cheaper ones available.

How exactly have you got your boot nets setup? I've got the really big one flat across the floot and then other horizontal across the bay Left to Right as you look in so this shoul dcome no where near them. Can you actually order these from UK Dealers?

I've ordered 4 Dynamat extreme 18" x 32" sheets via a popular auction site so will fit them to the boot area and see if it helps. I've got the rubber floor mat though so would have thought that should be a good start so will try the wheel arches for now given I generally get the issue going over bumps etc at lower speeds. It's not cheap though that's for sure!

I think it's bluetooth in general; I use a HTC Sensation (Rooted, Android 4.3 on CM10 rom) as a work phone and when travelling down to a customer site on Wednesday within the first 20 mins it disconnected for no reason. I restarted BT on the phone and then worked for the next hour or so with no issue for the rest of the drive. For my Nexus 5 it had issues showing photos though no drop outs and used the RSAP apps to sort out the bluetooth phonebook etc and thats always been stable. That might be worth a go but you need root access for it. The standard used by Google is a bit crap by the look of things and seems intermittant on the Samsungs too.

Version of android? Rooted? Stock rom or custom? Is this for all calls or just dialling in or out? Is there a power saving feature or bluetooth setting in the options that needs changing

Thanks; yes that does help a bit. I had in my mind the ones on the side of the tailgate that can also be adjusted. I'll adjust and try some sort of velcro/padded bit there as well and see how that helps. Thanks for the input - fingers crossed this can help.

Any chance you could take a photo ofthis for clarity please? Sounds like an interesting and cheap fix though! Thanks

Hi, I have a UK O3 Elegance and for some reason it didn't come with footwell lighting - this makes no sense to me given it's the top spec (in terms of gizmos etc not engine clearly) and the price paid for it but hey-ho. Is there any way of retrofitting these into at least the front footwells and maybe the rear as well? The easier the better obviously! I already have LED bulbs that came in a pack for the rest of the interior LED conversion but just need the holders and cable I assume? Will these then need to be programmed using VCDS? Thanks, John

It may be that you need to manage your phonebook in the phone software itself; as the phonebook handles all the metadata (names, emails, photos) it will send to the car while SIM storage has and always will be very basic. Using Google contacts on mine (both work and personal) and it works fine. The Nexus 5 is hard at showing what is actually on the SIM though but think all got synced to my gmail account anyway even the dodgy operator ones. Try creating a new entry in the standard phonebook or migrating one user to it, add a photo and re-testing.

Normally it's so that it can do things 'gracefully' - so, for instance, on a windows OS it tells all processes using the drive to write all data pending to the disk before cutting it off to prevent data corruption and files being left incomplete and thus damaged. With the car just reading music it's a muchness; just unplug it when the car and electrics are off and you'll have no issue. I do this when adding bits to my SD card and never had an issue plus it will only ever be reading data anyway so the chance of issues is so remote it's not worth the option.

Elegance hatch certainly has a 12v in the boot. The only way would be to wire in a new 12vsocket and put a lead out from behind the glove box to under the front seats where you could mount a socket. The plastic trim around the lower center console comes off with 1 torx screw fairly easily and could be fed under that.