vinuchandran

Made a better thread, @ http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341937-octavia-door-lock-problem-diagnoserepair-guide/

@ Admin-- Please remove this thread.

Hi, My octy's keyless entry remote was defective. Also my door LED was not blinking. So last week I decided to buy a new remote. With the new one, I found out that the driver side lock is not actuating with remote. It was opening by the mechanical key only. So I decided to check the lock. For that you need to remove the door card and remove the lock. Bowders1 already made a great guide for these. So try this link. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/ I removed the electrical coupling from the lock and checked if lock and unlock signals are coming there. Pins 1 and 2 are the lock/ unlock signal pins. Check if 12 v is coming there while locking /unlocking. If there is no 12 v, there may be a wiring harness or control unit problem. Now, time to disassemble the lock. (Watch this ) Remove these screws Use torx bits. I don't recall the sizes. But I think T15, T20, T25 or so. One of those screws (red) won't be accessible first. Don't worry. We can remove it later. But you must remove the ones marked with green and blue. The blue one is the smallest, and it will be on the side of the lock. Now remove this spring, which is on the back side. Now after a bit of wiggling, the electrical and mechanical parts will come apart. Now remove the leftout screw. Open the Electrical/actuator side. Remember the gear alignments, key cam alignment etc.. This will be useful while refitting.. These are the microswitches in the lock assy. Here, 1& 2 are the key position sensing switches. That is when you unlock manually, it will tell the control unit which position the key is. And 3& 4 are the actuator position finding switches. It will tell the control unit the current position of actuator. 5 is the door latch switch. It recognises whether the door is in opened or closed position. It is used while operating the interior lights. Now you have the idea to which component should be checked according to your problem. In my case, when manually opens, central locking works. So 1 & 2 are OK. And Interior light works well. So 5 is OK too.. So either 3 &4 or Motor. So I decided to check the motor first. Remove the motor assy and apply 12 v DC or a bit less to the marked pins for a very short duration. Oops.. My motor is not working.. Since it was not working for a long time, the thing got stuck. So I just pushed it to check if its working and voila.. So months of dirt in the motor is the reason. I applied WD40 to clean the motor A good amount of dirt came off. Then I checked it again.. Works like a charm. Rotates in both directions. Now time to refit. Put back the motor assy and gears together. Apply some hot glue here. ​ Check the position of key cam and put it all together and close. Put the screws (red) and connect it with the control panel to check if its working alright. The mechanical latch should be closed. You can push the latch inside. Remember, it is a two stage latch. So push it two times and check the door warning light on the cluster. It should go off. Now check the lock using the remote. If it not works, remove and recheck. And check if the central locking works while manual locking and unlocking. If its not working, the cam may be wrongly placed. Check if the LED blinks. If everything is alright, it should start blinking. If all works well, fit the remaining screws, spring, cables and fix the lock back in the door. Check every thing again and fix back everything. Hope this helps someone. Thank you.

Hi, My octy's keyless entry remote was defective. Also my door LED was not blinking. So last week I decided to buy a new remote. With the new one, I found out that the driver side lock is not actuating with remote. It was opening by the mechanical key only. So I decided to check the lock. For that you need to remove the door card and remove the lock. Bowders1 already made a great guide for these. So try this link. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/ I removed the electrical coupling from the lock and checked if lock and unlock signals are coming there. Pins 1 and 2 are the lock/ unlock signal pins. Check if 12 v is coming there while locking /unlocking. If there is no 12 v, there may be a wiring harness or control unit problem. Now, time to disassemble the lock. (Watch this ) Remove these screws http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/Screws_zps8ulojwn0_1.jpg Use torx bits. I don't recall the sizes. But I think T15, T20, T25 or so. One of those screws (red) won't be accessible first. Don't worry. We can remove it later. But you must remove the ones marked with green and blue. The blue one is the smallest, and it will be on the side of the lock. Now remove this spring, which is on the back side. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/Spring%201_zpsgpjj0lnp_1.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/Spring%202_zpsznpqutxq_1.jpg Now after a bit of wiggling, the electrical and mechanical parts will come apart. Now remove the leftout screw. Open the Electrical/actuator side. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/electrical_zpsqgxuyaqb_1.jpg Remember the gear alignments, cam alignments etc.. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/gear%20allignment_zpssfxegulr_1.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/IMG_20150128_100442496_HDR_zpsttnvhcrx_1.jpg This will be useful while refitting.. These are the microswitches in the lock assy. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/Micro%20switch1_zpsyhqz8ze7_1.jpg Here, 1& 2 are the key position sensing switches. That is when you unlock manually, it will tell the control unit which position the key is. And 3& 4 are the actuator position finding switches. It will tell the control unit the current position of actuator. 5 is the door latch switch. It recognises whether the door is in opened or closed position. It is used while operating the interior lights. Now you have the idea to which component should be checked according to your problem. In my case, when manually opens, central locking works. So 1 & 2 are OK. And Interior light works well. So 5 is OK too.. So either 3 &4 or Motor. So I decided to check the motor first. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/12%20v%20check_zpsgueqbzpt_1.jpg Remove the motor assy and apply 12 v DC or a bit less to the marked pins for a very short duration. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/12%20v%20check_zpsgueqbzpt_1.jpg Oops.. My motor is not working.. Since it was not working for a long time, the thing got stuck. So I just pushed it to check if its working and voila.. So months of dirt in the motor is the reason. I applied WD40 to clean the motor http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/WD40_zpsiyfy39pf.jpg A good amount of dirt came off. Then I checked it again.. Works like a charm. Rotates in both directions. Now time to refit. Put back the motor assy and gears together. Apply some hot glue here. http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/vinuchandran/Skoda%20Lock%20Repair/Hot%20glue_zpsdizv7ypn.jpg Check the position of key cam and put it all together and close. Put the screws (red) and connect it with the control panel to check if its working alright. The mechanical latch should be closed. You can push the latch inside. Remember, it is a two stage latch. So push it two times and check the door warning light on the cluster. It should go off. Now check the lock using the remote. If it not works, remove and recheck. And check if the central locking works while manual locking and unlocking. If its not working, the cam may be wrongly placed. Check if the LED blinks. If everything is alright, it should start blinking. If all works well, fit the remaining screws, spring, cables and fix the lock back in the door. Check every thing again and fix back everything. Hope this helps someone. Thank you.

After some research, i found out that silicone is best but hot glue also can be used.. It can be used for insulation and has heat conductive properties. But we should use neutral cure (shouldn't contain any acid. Normal acetic/acetoxy silicon can't be used) silicone which generally comes in 2 parts. Due to the unavailability of silicon, i used hot glue. Any ways, thank you BrownBarge.

Will it? It works only for a moment, right?

Thank you Freedom... And yeah.. I will tape it.. But will anything happen to the circuit board if i filled the box with silicon?? Thats what I want to know..

Hi guys.. A few weeks back, my octys right rear door got stuck. Octys locks are made in such a way that once we locked it a deadlock will engage. So we started to wiggle the lock pin while pressing the locking and unlocking buttons. After a no of tries the door suddenly unlocked. Then I removed the door pad to find the problem. I found out there is a control module integrated with the power window motor and took that apart. I also found a little rust on its pins, and sprayed a little bit of WD40 and **** happened!!! The pin broke .... Then I took the module out and was unable to take the circuit board out of the box. I was frustrated and started searching and found out there was not many threads about this problem in the web. By that time my father took it out of the plastic box using a hot air and a little bit of muscle. Then I checked it. One of the pin was rusted all the way and when i sprayed WD40 it became a memory. So i thought what the hell. Let me solder a new pin here. So I soldered a new pin (It was a mess ) and put it back. Worked fine!! Every one was happy. :sun: Yesterday the door got stuck again. This time it won't open no matter what. The dead lock had engaged. So after searching the net I understood that there is a possibility to open the door by removing the door card while the door is closed. But removing the door card without causing any damage is a pain in the a**. Upon checking the door card and seat position, i decided to remove the seat. Then I removed the 2 screws at the bottom of the card which was accessible. The the power window switch is removed and the screw behind the inside handle. After a bit of wiggling, the door card got removed without ANY damage. Upon a close inspection I found a no of pins got degraded. There was no hope of repairing that thing again. And in India, there are only a few octys, so parts were scarce. I contacted a person who might have the part and wow, he has one. So I went there and bought the item. Now I got the new part, but I was thinking, as this is a common problem, I should fill the module with either silicon or glue using a glue gun. What do u guys say??

Hi, i would like to know the procedure for removal of intake manifold and exhaust manifold with turbo for cleaning turbo, manifolds and egr. How would i clean PCV? In my PCV pipe, which is connected to the Air intake pipe, there is a lot of oil content. Is that a problem? Odo ticked 72k kms. Can anyone help me? Mine is an Octavia 1.9 Tdi What is the spherical shaped thing shown on the picture?

@trundlenut-- Just out of curiosity.. Can you post yours??

@trundlenut -- My air box's top view.

@trundlenut -- Mine is 1.9 tdi, 90bhp engine..

The pipe is connected in the tap, marked in red, in the above thumbnail. Also check this out... http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.9_l/66_kw_tdi_engine_mechanics/exhaust_system/exhaust_gas_recirculation_system/connection_diagram_for_exhaust_gas_recirculation_control/

Thank you guys... I got it... http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.9_ltr./66_kw_(tdi)_engine_fuel_injection_and_glow_plug_system/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/checking_charge_air_pressure_system/connecting_diagram_for_charge_pressure_control/