MereKat

My trusty BXE has what I suspect to be an injector loom fault. Is there a certain part I'd be better getting? "official" from Skoda? Anything I can find cheap? Looking around the replacement loom is around £40 from various places but nothing genuine... How much of a pain is it to change?....

Haha I guess the influx of new cars over the past few years does make for some dull reads! And new drivers today seem to struggle pointing out the screen wash cap! Interesting opinions here though, in regards to safety it drives as well as it always has. It’s been very surprising with how well it handles for an estate, always holds the road fine and over the years I don’t recall any time where it’s not held on. I haven’t had any high end cars, but I’d almost put this on par with my old 16v Golf GTi which was very very nice to briskly drive around backroads! Mechanics wise, I’m not afraid to tear it apart and do whats needed myself, I just don’t have the time or space I do it. Plus if something was to go wrong I don’t have any options of transport where I live. If something at a garage happens I can borrow a van from work for a few days. The garage behind my workplace has all sorts going in and out, including a fair few newer Mercs and BMWs so I’m fairly confident in their knowledge of German over-engineering. That “There might be more things needed” is the difficult part. I do indeed know this car just about as well as I know the back of my hand, which is a good thing as well as a bad thing, as I know when something isn’t quite right with it! A new car would be rather nice, for a little while, new cars just seem so bland these days, however this time every year is where money is spent on a 0% Credit card which is payed off in full in June when a work bonus comes in, a set monthly amount for a new car isn’t viable at the moment. I may have a drive of the 147, see what it’s like. General consensus says they’re brilliant cars with very good engines so it’s a strong possible option! I may then put the octavia in the garage and do what I can when I can and maybe get it back to how it was when I bought it! Once cleaned inside and out it’s scrubs up Ok, apart from the fact it’s dark green it’s a fairly nice looking motor!

That’s my thinking, it’ll be around £500-600 for a new flywheel alone, the loom is apparently DIYable but very awkward but only around £50. £200ish for tyres, probably an hour or so labour for the fuel system if the injector comes free ok (who knows what if it breaks!), £200ish to map the egr out properly, no idea what the ABS cause is, apparently it’s likely to be a broken wire in the front loom somewhere?, bushes and top mounts I’d imagine would be around £100-150 with fitting... For what it’ll cost I could take a chance on a nicer version of the car with a decent history, or even have a look at a 147 diesel that’s been offered very cheap (And very well looked after)... But then if I do spend out on it again, what else is there to go wrong and cost more again?... Bloody cars!

Mines a BXE, currently on 183k. First 105K was spent with Cambs Police so may not have had the best start in life. Never had an issue with the engine, although I think my injector loom needs replacing. I’ve seen a couple of BXEs that have had a lot of work and made it to over 200bhp reliably. I think it may have been the earlier versions that had starvation issues. TBH, I’d imagine any BXE that’s on the road today would be ok, the newest ones would be around 11/12 years old now!

Hi guys, Just had a new MOT on the trusty Mk2 today with advisories for a couple of low tyres and a child seat fitted. But, it’s had a few issues and it’s starting to cost a fair bit to put things right. It’s a ‘56 PD105 BXE Elegance. Not in the best of condition, but fairly tidy for its age and miles. The past 18 months has seen a new turbo, both front suspension arms and arb links, new rear disks, pads and callipers on both sides and a new clutch/DMF. It’s on coil overs, but not silly low, and has the original alloys as well as a set of 17” Scirocco alloys. However...it’s done 183k now (I know it’s half way through life!), the DMF is failing again (Lesson learnt, never even think of considering Techniclutch!), it ideally needs 4 new tyres (has different front and rear wheels atm), flywheel needs replacing again soon, front brakes could do with replacing at some point (Not particularly low but feel warped if breaking fairly heavy), EML is on due to EGR system being removed when the new turbo went on, ABS system lights up after 10 mins of driving (Exactly 10 mins from ignition on, every single journey), fuel system needs bleeding and it appears the injector loom is damaged too (Feels like it’s missing at idle, goes away if any pressure is put on the acc pedal). Brakes I can do myself but the others I’d need to take somewhere. I haven’t tackled the bleeding as from what I understand I need to slacken injector 3...if that breaks that’s the car gone! Only seems to affect starting though. The garage that MOTd it also advised a top mount and rear bush looks like it’ll start giving signs of wear soon (Which makes sense as there’s a knock at the front and rear on rough ground). Also the rear tracking is miles out! The EML can be turned off for a day or so, that’s why it’s passed MOTs with it. Do I take a hit and put another £1k into it? Move it on to someone who can do the bits themselves? List it’s issues and stick it on eBay? Scrap it? Overall it’s never let me down, always got to wherever I’m going apart from once when the alternator failed a couple of years ago. Seems a hard decision, I’ve had it for 5 years...I get attached to vehicles which never appears to be healthy!

It’s starting to get silly now....extended warranty required to cover 11 months?

that’s an option, although I can’t get the clutch out to send back for a refund as I need the car so it would be very easy to be denied. I’m not one to demand a refund without returning the product though. I have now been told twice that they’ve resent the original invoice by email and it hasn’t been received. Checked inbox and junk and nothing. its a Rock and Hard place situation really, I can’t afford the full cost of replacement in hope of a refund which probably wouldn’t come but then I can’t have the car off the road to remove the clutch so they send a replacement (Which I don’t want anyway!)

They'll have it, just saying they can't find it using the ebay/paypal details. In other words, just being awkward like they have been for the 100s of peoples accounts I've been reading. I'd like to just go straight to ebay/paypal, but have a feeling it'll be very simple for them to get out of it. I'm in no way malicious nor trying to just get money back, i have a genuine issue the same as 99% of their customers that i need sorting.

It appears this game has been played 1000s of times! I've given them screenshots of the ebay and paypal transaction (I keep all purchases in a folder just incase!) The last response i had yesterday is: Thank you for the information. We all require the actual invoice number to correctly advise; a copy of the invoice was sent with the item )hard copy) and also emailed to you too. The Paypal transaction is too old to show any results on our systems to produce a copy invoice. Kind regards, Jason http://stores.ebay.co.uk/TECHNICLUTCH My response was: New message to: techniclutch I don’t have a copy of the invoice. I don’t recall there being any paperwork in the box and I did not receive a copy via email. Every emailed invoice from every online purchase I have made has been kept from 2013 onwards but I haven’t received one from yourselves. They don't keep records from 11 months ago, which seems quite strange. The company i work for has every invoice we've generated for every single sale made from when we opened 10 years ago, takes a couple of minutes to find! I know this is going to be a bit of a fight, but i've never actually had to make a warranty claim before on anything!

Hence wishing i'd read the reviews first, never seen such negativity towards a company! Especially one that seems to have been going for so long!!

Afternoon all, I bought a clutch/DMF kit from Techniclutch in Feb last year and it’s failing after 9-10k and 11 months driving. Contacted them and they’ve just said that without their invoice they won’t do anything about it. I bought via EBay and paid with PayPal. They say they sent a hard copy with the clutch and also sent an email copy. The hard copy I don’t recall getting and I never deleted anything invoice wise on my emails and I don’t have one there. What should my next step be?? If it was £50 I’d leave it but £300 I really can’t afford to pay out right now but need my car on the road! Any advice gratefully accepted! Wish I’d have read all the reviews before buying it but you live and learn!

Not the greatest of photos but these are the donningtons on mine. The handling is a lot nicer with these over the 16s and they're actually lighter!

I bought a complete panel on ebay, swapped the motor over and it's been good so far. I couldn't get the oversized rivets to break, they just pulled through the metal so my panel is now screwed on with some 16mm self tappers for now, been on a couple of months and no issues so far...

Mine is grounded by the driver's rear light with the cable run inside the side panels to the rear seat, I didn't realise there were other good grounding points! Just make sure you're grounding to bare metal then enjoy the bass!

No, I didn't remove them to check pins (The seals looked to be properly in place). I'll do that tomorrow if I get a chance though. Are they a simple twist in plug/socket like my old Golf? Or do they need some form of tool??

All the wires in the flexi look fine, moving them all individually makes no difference and all look to be in the sockets correctly. I figured that's where the problem would be as they're the only wires that actually move! Although, i know a broken wire isn't necessarily visible, if the insulation isn't broken it look's as good as new...

I have a set of 17" VW Donningtons from a Scirocco on my Mk2. Looks a little better than the stock 16" but i think 18" would probably look better. A possible change for me later in the year... Haven't got a pic of my car but it's these ones. Taken straight off the Rocco and put on mine, fit's quite nicely.

Afternoon guys, I have an issue where everything in the drivers door apart from the window has stopped working, central locking doesn't lock the door and the alarm doesn't set until i manually lock the door. Looking around it seems this would be due to a broken wire in the door somewhere, or in the flexi bit between the door and body. Has anyone else had this, and can advise which wire/s would be the most likely culprit? Seems a fairly common problem but no one seems to tell you where the fault actually is apart from "A broken wire"! Luckily my door card is now screwed to the door rather than riveted so not a problem to take it off again! It's happen shortly after the window regulator was replaced so assume it's due to something I've done somewhere along the way??

Found it, definitely an external slave! Saves me a few pennies for now which is good!

That looks to be a pretty good job! It's a job that i am going to have to do at some point too, the "Elbow Hole" in mine is a lot worse!

That would be handy if it is, I'll have a look at some point. Is it under the airbox if it is external?

2006 PD105 BXE 5sp Octavia I've got a clutch kit on the way, but I have been advised it is also worth changing the slave cylinder as it's built into the bell housing. Looking around however I can't find much info on this, only lots of parts and threads about the slave being outside the housing. I've been told I need a concentric version, but everywhere I put my reg in says it's not built in...where is it if it is outside the housing? That info seems to be unavailable too! I'm guessing it would be the same across all models using this engine hence putting the post here...

Apparently mine was serviced every 10k and had a new alternator and clutch at 90k, which would make sense that it needs replacing now. To be fair it's been fairly trouble free the the time I've owned it so no reason to doubt it. Cambs Police were the previous owners of it. DJ, I'll be servicing it myself and a friend of mine that's an Audi mechanic is down the clutch for me, if I notice any change in the engines sound then I'll get it looked at. I'm fairly clued up on the BXE troubles and the causes, general saying seems to be that if it's lasted over 100k chances are it'll go on for 500k, most fails seem to be between 20-100k. Hopefully being on 170k that's the case!

DJS unfortunately now the EGR has to "Be fitted and functioning correctly" for our MOT test, I'm just keeping it in place and connected to the vac system but have blocked the pipe so it looks stock, but doesn't actually do anything. The restriction created by the valve itself shouldn't make any diffrrence for what I want from it. "Stage 1" is all I'll be going for. The Turbo will also have a blank plate fitted so nothing will be entering it to clog it up again, just need to look standard. And although it has the miles to suggest this was one of the stronger BXEs made, I still don't want to risk throwing a rod! Widdershins, the "After Marked" suspension is mine, the car appeared totally stock when I got it apart from a couple of cut cables in the engine bay and some screw holes in the center console which I assume had some form of radio equipment or controls for lights and the sensors behind the rear view mirror were missing. My guess is it was a commuter or beat car rather than response (Like the Fiestas we have around my way), but either way I doubt it had the easiest of times! Andy, for the price I'm going to stick with the DMF. Full DMF kit and SMF Conversion kit seem to be similar prices so opting for the slightly smoother option!

I'm guessing it isn't the same as mine? I have run a cable in behind the battery where there's others going through