PerformanceDiesel

ChristophVRS my issue with knocking noise exactly mirrors yours i think. same age and mileage car. i think must be in the strut mounts the noise is coming from. I find it at worst when car has been driven a few miles.

Im getting same issue iv changed droplinks to meyle hd ones but no change. i thought i might change rear console bush to meyle hd or febi ones for an s3 semi voided ones. If not that then maybe top mounts and bearings. Im not wanting to chuck money with changing bits just because it might be. But seems a common issue on these cars with these annoying knocks but would just like to build a better idea of what it might be. Im due for mot on tuesday so might get garage to take a look

iv been having same issue replaced drop links no better. General consenus is either top mounts or rear console bushes on front wishbones. Mine seems to clonk more once the car is warmes up making me think its more of a bush that needs replacement. Its from front n/s but sounds like its coming from middle of the car at the front with windows up.

Yep should be 312mm front and 282mm rear.

Id have said by looking at them they were fitted upside down. The tighter wound bit should be at the bottom as its a duel wound spring so it should get stiffer as the spring is compressed. The wider coils at the top give a slight more pliant ride then stiffen as a corner is taken as the spring coils move closer together. I think pit round the right way you wont have the noise.

You can set just fogs and brightness with carista on pre fl. Takes about 30 seconds. I run north american mode but specify fogs on only no other lights and set to 20%. Works all ok. Any brighter and look too much like fogs rather than drls.

Bosch pure light. Which winners and have been very good for neigh on 2 years.

You can do the north american setting in carista and also do the dimming of fogs. I have mine in north american and set at 20% anymore and i think its too bright as drls especially when its wet you get a kickup from the road surface. There are a few good options on carista that are worth doing. Have a play. The test licence keeps it all abit cheaper as I have found out

A new caliper will do the trick i had the same.

If you have jumped car with a much newer car by chance due to intelligent charging on newer models it could have tried to push in alot higher voltage to try and bring the flat battery as quick as possible. This can sometimes be in region of 18v which if you car is not of the same age or electrical setup it can fry things very quickly. Just a thought

Get some valeo silencio blades and hey presto no more noise. After trying fixes above

If you go for the shark remap on the 105 you wont think its slow after. Suprisingly spritely and also economy is increased when driven normally. Do not go for a £45 map otherwise you will have issues. The shark map has been properly tested and allows the engine to work at its best. If you want shed loads of smoke high egts and possible mot advisorys then take the 45 pound map. But its cheap for a reason

Carista can now be used to activate cornering via fogs and drl adaptions aswell as dimming functions

Probably just did a throttle alignment using vcds after cleaning throttle body. People report car to be more responsive afterwards.

Ventura PB80 Powerbank with Jumpstart. This is the one I have by Snooper.

With the tyre width and the stock geometry setup there will always be abit of tyre roar. Even with low rated db tyres. It doesnt bother me as I know that the car has a sports setup and has the grip there when needed with decent tyres and geo setup

Yes they car from in car and mains. And if charged and put in glovebox they reckon even after 6 months itll be enough to get you going again. Cant really beat that for something thatll fit in the glove box

Get yourself a portable powerbank such as the 12v snooper 12000mah battery pack. Will sit in glove box and can start up to a 3L diesel if needed. Costs cira 100 pound but have various outputs and leads and is very useful to keep in the car provided its charged for said emergencies

is it a diesel? if so no cat needed. petrol then yes

Meaty101 get precat knocked out as not needed for mot and at stage 1 its a step towards stage 2 without the cost of either a better breathing setup or downpipe. It allows better fuelling on the map higher into the rev range without having to keep engine exhaust gas temps down as exhaust can flow better. Main cat further down the downpipe must stay in place for mot. Not alot of people know its there but its used for eu emissions not uk and alot of the mk5 golf gti guys have done this before stage 1 map. Shark can incorperate this into the map for no extra cost too if you mention to them before you have the map put on.

Glow plugs preheat cylinder before starting and also run on after start to bring cylinder temps up as quick as possible to ensure best combustion. They are needed on a cold start otherwise the load on the starter motor increases a fair bit and the engine will really struggle without them to start or if one or two are abit iffy. It will obviously tax the battery in the above situation too than needs be. Clutch in the start lessens load and can help when its cold out

Sts box is great idea. I can vouch for great maps on a tfsi and 1.9 pd 105. Both have been really good and both have improved both cars in their respective ways immensely!

Id back up VRSMule i would say that having the 5w-30 that isnt 507.00 badged is not going to cause the dpf issues. If you are burning oil at a rate that would any low ash oil will eventually saturate the dpf causing damage. Under normal circumstancea any c3 (low ash) rated oil of the 5w-30 fully synth variety will be ok for most if not all diesels with dpfs that want 5w-30 oil to be used.

Have you got a link to that kit. I cant seem to find it?

17mb thats low? what reading was that from?