jas328sport

no worries bud,you would need to be very very careful not to get it on the mesh anyhow but seriously it works a treat on the leather:thumbup:

so long as you buff it off properly it is absolutely fine,been using it for years.in fact the leather in my new car was looking a bit worse for wear and is quite worn especially on the sides but after an hour and a few coats of boot polish nobody that saw it before can believe that it is the same interior. just rub it in with a clean cloth and buff it back off with one of your missus's polishing cloths:thumbup: dont knock it until you have tried it:rolleyes:

both the cheapest and so far the best way i have found of really softening and making the leather feel great is just plain boot polish.go careful not to get it on the mesh though:eek:

good luck with that,you will need it;)

yes mate the connectors are inside the drivers door.not sure if mine actually got fixed or not because it was sold straight after i picked it up and if i am perfectly honest i have not missed it for a minute:O it was a lovely easy car to drive but far too many problems for my liking and i will never step inside that particular dealers door again.

any idea on the part number and price for this control unit.thanks.

but is the convenience unit not behind the dash because i was told that my fault is to do with corrosion inside the drivers door.

yes it is an octavia not the window at fault though,just the central locking and open door light on dash.been told i need the control unit not window motor.

still need to know part number and price just in case it cant be repaired,anybody know. the car is actually sold subject to me getting this fixed asap.

yep that sounds like the one although the only problem with mine is that the remote sometimes doesnt lock or unlock the drivers door and it tells you when you are driving that the door is open when it isnt. just spoken to skoda uk about the bad dealer service that i have had and asking how an internal part of the door electrics can be made so that it allows water ingress and that i cant see why i should be made to pay for something that is a common fault that should have been rectified by skoda.there answer was that they know of no issues with this and that i dont qualify for any skoda financial assistance on this matter because i dont meet the criteria(didnt buy it new:rolleyes:)and that any problems that i have regarding a main dealer refusing to do work under warranty is between me and them.now although i have no problem with things not being covered by warranty that have corroded and by wear and tear externally,how do they not cover something that has corroded internally as surely it shouldnt be able to do this anyway

drivers door ecu is what they called it:confused: if there is another name for it then fire away.

where abouts is this located as this is the part that i was told by skoda is faulty. since they messed with it it hasnt worked too badly but my local auto sparky is having it in tomorrow to try and clean it all up and hopefully get it working properly.only trouble is that he hasnt ever worked on one of these before and wasnt sure whether it was like the comfort unit on vw's as this is located under the seat.i told him that i think it is actually located in the drivers door,is this correct. if this cant be repaired does anyone know the part number and the trade price for one as a mate has offered to get it through his work at trade price for me but i would obviously need the part number and it would be nice to know the price beforehand. thanks.

i think i will keep my mouth shut here;)perhaps i have just been unlucky:rolleyes:

well the funny thing now is that it has just started working again:rolleyes:so perhaps the dealers can sod off and i will get my local electrician to try and clean up the connections a bit better and see if it is actually ok after all.i feel like someone is trying to rip me off again:finger:they obviously couldnt have checked it very well could they,i expect they just looked at it and saw it was corroded and thought best change that:rolleyes:

not expecting them to be a charity:rolleyes: and i am not even expecting them to offer me a high price but i have had very bad service from them and seeing as they are a main dealer and that they would still put it back on the forecourt for over

just a bit bored with the car and with annoyed about the hassle i have had with it and really really fed up with the awkward dealership that i bought it from.

well doesnt this just take the biscuit,just got back from the stealers who claim that water has got into the drivers door ecu and that i need a new ecu and connections and guess what,yep the warranty wont cover it as they will not pay for anything that is damaged due to corrosion or water damage:mad: after yet another row with the fool,he is going to have a word with the service manager and see what they can sort out.i cant believe that in 9 months of ownership and 6k miles this thing has been back to the stealers 5 times for work. oh yes i almost forgot the price of a new ecu is

yep that was kinda what i was intending:) not expecting anywhere near what i paid but a fair offer would be nice after all the hassle they have given me:rolleyes:

my motor is going back to the stealers on thursday to have the central locking looked at seeing as it is still under warranty and i was going to ask if they would be willing to buy the car back from me.would this be a waste of time or would they offer a sensible price.it was bought from them approx 9 months ago for

cheers bud.

bugger,does that mean it has to go to the stealers or can it be diagnosed by my local auto electrician.any idea on price if it does turn out to be the motor.

typical that something goes wrong when you are trying to sell your car:rolleyes: the drivers door motor appears to be dead,it has been playing up for the last couple of days,only working occasionally off the remote but has now stopped altogether.using either the keyfob or the interior button only locks the other 3 doors and the only way to lock the drivers door is with the key. any idea how much a new motor is as although it is still under warranty i would rather not have the hassle of taking it back to the dealer as relationships are pretty strained between us and it is a hassle getting in there to them especially seeing as knowing them they will want to keep it for a couple of days:rolleyes:. come on then,hit me with it,whats the cost:eek:

the little things to check for are not usually apparant at first.when i first got mine i thought it was faultless and it was only after a week or so that little faults started to rear their heads.my dump valve and maf were changed in the first month under warranty.also check the condition of the wiring in the fuse box on top of the battery as mine had corroded wiring which burnt out the fuse box and could have caused a fire yet could have easily been avoided if the corroded wiring had been spotted and replaced earlier.i was lucky that all of mine was replaced under warranty otherwise it would have all cost a fair bit.also check smoothness on low revs as plenty of people seem to suffer from stuttering at low revs and it seems to be difficult to find the fault and cure. dont forget that with 56k on the clock it is due it's cambelt changed which along with the water pump will not be cheap either.

it is very strange that mine used to suffer from this but since having the battery,fuse box and loom replaced it has never done it since and now drives perfectly from cold.