merrett07

Also I got no brake lights, tried changing the brake peddle switch it's still the same

I've cleared the fault codes but come back, I do believe it is wiring related, I have had a quick look at the wiring but seems a lot of play in it and nowhere where it's tight, going to strip it down tomorrow to do a check all the wires, I think it's lost a 12v feed sum where

I started my car last night everythink was fine, I reversed back and when into 1st and stalled the car, on rear start it struggled to start. I drive off the glow plug light was flashing and no boost, I hoped wen I woke up this morning the problems had gone but they are still here, plug in a code reader and it's came bk with P0727 engine speed input circuit no signal P2102 throttle actuator control motor circuit low P0243 turbo wastewater solenoid a P0489 exhaust gas recirculation control circuit a low I'm guess this is an electrical problem I have checked fuses but all seem ok, I've tried a search but came back with nothink, can sum 1 help

Pm me a price aswell on octavia wheels

Still got the problem, on Boxing Day the dash warning lights started to come on randomly first the oil light flashing, restarted the car an went out, wouldn't Rev up, so restarted again now I have abs light on, from that day the pas light goes of when stationary, soon as you move its back on, also I plug diagnostics in and it comes up with no power to terminal 30, only when it's running it says this, the lights on the dash keep goin random on an off, could this be a earthing problem or corrosion on 1 of the fuse boards

Mine did this yesterday, started the car, turned in hids. I then went to drive of a seen the oil light flashing turned the car off then restarted still flashing, repeated this oil light went but would only run for 5 secs keep trying then was ok no oil light flashing and car running but now have the airbag light on

I've cheeked the battary voltage when running it reads 14.8v so guess the alternator is ok. Was turning into my drive today full lock left and it came back light went off aswell, turned the steering to the right then it went off again. I went back to full lock left and it came back on, but soon as I straightened up it went off.

how it started. few months ago was driving down the road and the steering light came on. every think was normal still had power steering. on random occasions it started to die and go off then after around 2 weeks of this it went off then only come back on on random occasions, I had I jacked up on passenger side 1 day and then worked for a few days, I moved the pump by hand and I came on for a few days aswell. randomly driving down the road it will come on, was parked at some lights on a hill pulled of and was working. the power steering light has now started to flicker when hitting bumps in the road. 1.I have changed the battery, steering angle sensor 2.checked the wiring for resistance for the steering angle sensor 3.checked power to the pump 4.done the alternator load wire plug by the g gearbox, the battery light used to random stay on longer, flicker, not work, sum times, I have found this to be the plug on the alternator broke, the light now works properly but not 100% sure both wire are connecting properly on the plug 5. diagnostic check code 01288 terminal 30 steering assist signal to low. ONLY SHOWS THIS WHEN ENGINE IS RUNNING I have tried the fuses, added another earth. code 01290 steering assist short to ground. I have changed the sensor code still shows and resistance checked on wiring I am now thinking that it could be the load signal wire or the ecu in the pump has anyone got any ideas

Mine was doing this I changed the slave cylinder and problem went

I'm from wednesbury

I bent the bracket up a little to give a bit of slack, if u get what I mean

I've 100% used originals, but tight but fit

I couldn't get my hands on a vcds, so I did some runs using a snap on souls pro, it was coming back at around, 2635 actual, with occasional boost spike of 2845. I'm guessing these numbers relate to 1.63 bar and 1.84 bar. I don't now if it's the map sensor, or boost gauge, will have to test a new boost gauge to see

its from about 2700 rpm, I will try get my hands on a vcds to see.

hi I recently fitted a boost gauge to my car, the car was remapped to run 1.6 bar. on acceleration it hit this then backs of to 1.2 bar is this right, could it be faulty map sensor or down to the map its self thanks

I now it's a techni clutch but it's ment to be a Sachs kit so should be ok

I've been looking at this 1 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-POLO-1-9TDI-1-9-TDI-ASZ-BLT-130-96KW-SACHS-DMF-CARBON-KEVLAR-CLUTCH-CSC-/360788972505?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5400b2d3d9 is there anyone running this kit I am hoping for around 250bhp, do you think this kit would cope with it thanks

You might of seen I had a problem with white smoke in a previous topic, I stripped the head of to day and found out, the tip had burnt of no.4 glow plug. On examination it took a chip out the valve and also damaged the piston, was looking to replace with a new engine, but going to consider engine rebuild. How many of you have got forged engines also how much did it cost and who did the work? If I put standard pistons back in .5mm oversize which pistons would I be better off with, (are the all the same throught the different engine codes) Will be using original rods and crank if ok on inspection, what power will the standard rods and crank take? Glenn

This is what mine is like but I've got stupid amount if smoke, at 2500rpm is that where yours comes into boost. As mine drives at around 2000rpm when it comes into boost and missing goes.

hi it smokes all the time up until 2000 rpm under load when driving, no water lose or oil. you can smell the diesel in the smoke had injectors tested and come back ok now and again you will come of the throttle to change gear and the revs will rise to 5k for a few seconds then drop, it has also cut out twice on me while driving. what it is I work in a brakes yard, I brought the car from salvage, it had light passenger front damage still has original head light, it broke the power steering pump. engine swap I would do my self so no labour charges. I would of just changed the engine but don't have any blt engines in the yard at the moment on diagnostic it comes back as missing on cylinder 4

I have a 2006 vrs blt, you may have seen that I had a problem with, white smoke on idle, had the injectors checked and all ok on idle at high revs they are a little under. I put the injectors back in and it's still the same has recently had a new turbo so not that, I am looking to change the engine. what am I best of doing replacing with another blt or a different engine code, am looking to go for a round 250bhp in the future, could I buy a 150 arl or such and just use that with my egr delete and anti shutter valve. An I right in thinking that is possible thanks

Oil and water is ok, the smell of the smoke is the same as when you pull the compression leaver on a diesel generator to cut it out, this is y I think it is a injector staying open

Oil is black, no water in it, smoke smells like diesel, think it's possible an injector stuck open.

On tick over loads of white smoke and juddering, smells like diesel, I have drive the car for around 10 mile back from when it happend, over 2000 rpm it drives as it shud do pulls the same, could it be an injector stuck open

I've used tiger seal, to keep mine in not 1 cum of yet an no leaks so far