jaegarmaisteri

With Revo, I got 270hp and 428N when I dynoed. I used 98E5 petrol. And this dyno I used, doesnt give anything free. So I am happy for result.

On my ****ty country, the fine you pay, is depending on your annual salary. For me last march, I got a 360€ ticket, just by running an stop-sign at crawling speed on empty road. One millionaire got couple of years ago 112 000€ for speeding. He was driving on 60kmh road at 82kmh. :clap:

VCDS: 19 and the can gateway ->installation list -> and tap telephone (module 77).

Got it working. Great.

Yep, 19 and the can coding. That's the instruction I got. Tomorrow Ill try that. Thanks for reply.

This one. I got some suggestions from another forum. I will test it tomorrow. http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/bluetooth-kits/oem-vw-skoda-seat-bluetooth-handsfree/

I found this old thread and little comments. I retrofitted BT/HF kit today, and it was a bitch work. Adapter block didn't fit behind the radio. After two hours, I got an idea to take aircon/storagebox out and test if the block fits there. Well, it did perfectly. Here is picture. Only problem is that I couldn't able to get it work (with VCDS) via Maxidot. I just couldn't find the correct code. I used the installation guide I got from the Czech website, I ordered the kit. If anyone has any suggestion to that, I am very happy. It does work, and I am able to answer-end calls on my steeringwheel, mic works too, also able to play music.

"Now after couple of days, it looks like reason for my cold idle stutter was the #4 fuel nozzle." And for you, it was #4 fuel injection nozzle, which they changed.

Yes, sorry for my poor presentation. My native language isn't English. Fuel INJECTION nozzle, what I was referring to. And again you're right, there are only one manifold, not manifoldS. Thank You, for correcting me.

Some update. Car has been working well since. Also all the costs for repairs done, went to the car dealer and to importer. Next step now is to improve the engine, by doing some engine optimizing. They are promising up to 264hp/370N. This should spice up the car. I am bit worried about the DSG, but they should have some new program for that too. Mechanically, DSG can take this new tuning easilly.

My new battery cost 79€ and I changed it myself, with a friend. It took about hour from start to finnish, since I had to clear the codes and check that everything works. Tomorrow I will run VCDS again to check, there is no faultcodes coming back.

Dont want to paint devils on the wall, but I had some stuttering problems and reason was fuel injector and also there were misfires too. Inside the manifold was also really filled with carbon glunks. Biggest failure was on the dealership, when they didnt find the problem, because there werent any fault codes. They insisted, that there should be fault code. They did some serious maintenance while trying to find the problem and at the end, it was the fuel injector which I told the 2 months earlier. I was glad, that I didnt had to pay that bill. It was HUGE.

Thanks for the replys- I got this sorted out atleast for now. I bought new 62Ah battery and changed it. I even got all codes cleared. Funny thou, that the Clear All Codes function didn't clear 01 Engine codes. Only when I went to that section, and cleared them from there, I got ridoff them. Now everything seems to be working. After the battery change, ESP light was on, and tire pressure and traction control. Those went away, when I took a little spin. The old battery was almost dead. The "eye" was all black. But for now, I am happy everything worked out well anyway.

So, I got myself a "little" problem yesterday. First earlier at day, I jumped to car and was starting, at first try, it didnt. The second immediatly Octy started and everything was ok. Later when I went a market and came out, I started and then it hit. Almost all lights on dash started flashing and the cars computer started throwing several different faults. I shut down and started again. Only airbag was on. So when I got back home, I connected VCDS and read the fault codes. This is what I got: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ksg4am50tjm0fiw/Log-SKL-918-TMBEF61Z9B2057387.txt I read the codes and resetted. Then read codes again with car not running and car running. All results are at the same .txt file. I guess this could be battery problem, since there is low voltage (~12.35V). And today I am going to go and buy a new battery. Currently there is still 5 faults, which I couldn't clear. Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer , No Communication with Instrument Cluster, Steering Column Control Module , No Communications with HVAC Control Module (J301) ja No Communication with Diagnostic Gateway. Could it still be something else, then battery? My car has 51Ah battery, and few friends were bit suprice, that it is so small. There is no "low voltage" fault thou. Thanks for advance.

Haha.. Indeed it is.

Nothing special. Just some instruments to get some more accurate telemetrics data.

OK. I got my electronics fitted yesterday. The front roof lightning didnt work. We measured voltage about 12.5V, but when i got my electronics connected, it dropped to 3.5V. It needs minimum 10.5V to work. So, next solution was to open the left fusebox and take empty slot and set some wiring from there via A-pillar to rear mirror. We took the cover for airbag away and were able to hide wiring behind there. Now the electronics we fitted, also turnes off, when I turn power off with key. So overall, all worked perfectly. It took almost 3.5h total to get everything fitted and one trip to local car electric shop (lucky enough we had normal saturday, even it is easter). Thanks for all (specially FriendlyFire) the help I got here.

OK. Thanks mate. I will check it later. I am going to use some direct wiring, so this is nice to know that the wiring goes to left A-pillar.

Hi Does anybody have wiring diagram for interior lightning? I am about to install some electronics, and thinking of using the front interior lightnings wires. Picture would be nice. Somehow I wasnt able to find those from the web. J

My car has worked perfectly these past two days after the latest reparations. Now after couple of days, it looks like reason for my cold idle stutter was the #4 fuel nozzle. The intake manifolds were open, so it is also cleaned inside the engine. The engine sounds great now. Thanks for all the suggestions thou.

Thanks for all the replys. I had my car at the local shop this friday, and they finally checked/measured the fuel nozzle. So, they found some missfire from nr.4. Already at the first time 1.5 month ago they changed coils and sparkplug for that nr.4 sylinder, when there were faultcode. Now they will open the manifold and change it. At same time they will also wash the engine. I hope this will fix the problem. I told them at the day one, to checke the nozzles, but nothing happend. Only answer I got was, "we will start eliminating possible causes from obvious places". I am pretty ****ed, if this is the reason. For grand total, this experience propably will cost totally 4k€, Let see how it goes. EDIT: Kilometers are now over 90k. EDIT2: So they were able to get some missfires from nr.4 sylinder. They said it wasnt easy, since the engine is hot quite quiqkly, and that basically fixes the problem. I seriously hope, this will fix the problem.

Hi again I have problem and my dealer doesn't no nothing. So, to symptoms. When I cold start the engine, revs goes normally to over 1000rpm:s and I hear this sound as it doesn't run with all sylinders and idle is irratic. Ok, the revs go down to ~800, it is normal. When driving, there is slight twitch now and then. This twiching appears always when I use "surface gas". Easiest to get it twitching, is to drive with cruise control and with speed of max ~60 kmh. Then the revs are under 1600. All this goes away when engine warms. There is no fault codes. This takes about 5-10 minutes and then everything works fine. I've runned with System Fuel Cleaner (Forte) for 3 full tanks. I've tested also other petrols too. (95E10, 98E5 and Shell Vpower). Dealer suggested that I would only run with 98E5. My VAG dealer has now done so far (what I know): - Changed coilpacks and plugs - Changed Control Unit for Fuel Transfer Pump (I guess this is nere the fuel tank) - Changed Timing Chain and others relevance to it - Changed Throttle Body - Runned several diagnostics and nothing appears (no faults or misfires). - They have done some other stuff too, but I havent got any bills, so I dont know exactly what. Propably cleaned something. Ok, like I said, they dont have a clue where to find this problem, and so far the repair cost are atleast 1000€ for parts and same amount for the work (total 2k€). I've read that some cases the MAF, Coolant Temp etc. could be also a problem. Please give me some suggestions. Here is link to Youtube for a video about the sounds today after cold start today http://youtu.be/8Nt7vZHChw0 Car is inside a carage night time, and temp usually at winter time is +15'c. So it should not be related to outside fenomenoms.

Question about dashboard lights. Is it possible to code them turn ON, when I use my daylights (LED's)? Or when I turn ignition ON with key, would be the same I guess. If possible, how do I do it? I have original Ross Tech cable and VCDS. It is annoying that these rainy weathers, the dashboard is too dark to really see the RPM and Speed with a fast glance.

I bought my first Skoda couple of weeks ago and I guess I needed to sign here too. I've been reading this portal for few times and founded useful. I have 2011 Octavia vRS TSI DGS.