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napperd

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  1. Thanks for the replies, sorry for the late response. I had to get the bearings done in the back wheel so asked the mechanic to check out the warning light. Of course the morning I brought it down to him the light never came on. They checked it out and said they could find no fault. I drove it the following day and after about 150 miles the warning light came on. It's been on and off intermittently since but has been off more than on so I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on it. Thanks again for the replies and suggestions. Much appreciated
  2. Thanks bigjohn, I'm 99% sure I've no leaks. (No obvious ones at least.) The coolant level has been constant, The plastic cover/guard on the underside of the engine is bone dry as are the carpets in the footwell. I'll check the carpets again tomorrow though just to make sure. The heater matrix actually went on my last car (Golf). I'll also take a look at the rad. I forgot to mention that the warning light came on about two months ago but disappeared after about 10 mins again. Yesterday for a warning light came on indicating that a bulb was blown. It went again after a few minutes and I can see no bulb that is not working.
  3. so as the topic states I have an issue with the Engine Coolant Warning Light. It is flashing RED!. I searched through some posts here already for solutions. As suggested I emptied the coolant tank and cleaned the contacts. This didn't work as once refilled and the engine restarted the light was flashing again. I then bought a new sensor and replaced that. I left the car running momentarily, took it for a quick spin and the issue seemed to have been resolved. However a number of hours later I drove about half a mile before the warning light began flashing again. The temp gauge is sitting bang in the middle, as it always has so the engine is not overheating. I'm not sure what else to do, any suggestions from anyone? I have had awful bad luck with the car over the last 9 months. DMF replaced, rear wheel bearing, discs & pads replaced due to pistons not releasing and pads wore down in no time. This issue with the Coolant Warning light. I spent €650 trying to get the air con fixed bit still to no avail. Dealer doesn't know what's wrong with it so any help you can offer me on this I would greatly accept. Thanks in advance
  4. I was driving behind a truck carrying stone on a motorway. It didn't have the cover over the load and stones were jumping out every so often. It was too late when I noticed it and was showered with loose stone. A few hit the bonnet and one hit the windscreen and cracked it. I only had bought the car new a few months prior to this. Got the windscreen guy to come out and fit a new one. A while later I noticed a spec of rust appear above the window. This got a little bigger and I realised that it had to have happened when the windscreen guy fitted the new windscreen. I know this because there is another patch right in the top corner of the window. I phone up the repair guy & he said there was no way he did it and no way I can prove he did. Anyways, The patches are getting worse (see pic below) Does anyone have any advice on what I can do other than take it to a garage? I am flat broke and can't afford any expensive bill with the repairs right now. Thanks
  5. Hi VrsStebuzz, Thanks for the reply. Can I ask, did you create new holes with the self tappers or could you use the existing holes after you drilled out the rivets? Cheers
  6. Thanks Softscoop, I was afraid of that. I had hoped it would be like the Golf Mk4 before I had popped off the outer panel. What's the best option for refitting the panel after I have sorted out the regulator?
  7. Thanks softscoop, I was afraid of that. Before I popped the outer panel I had hoped it was going to be like the Golf Mk2. What's the best option for when I have the window regulator sorted out? (as in refitting the panel)
  8. I'm trying to fix the rear window of my Octavia. The regulator is jammed in the "closed" position. The window had slipped down but i've managed to pull it back up out of the door frame. I am trying to get the inner panel off so that I can get at the regulator. Does anyone have any advice on how to successfully take off the panel without destroying it? I have tried to pop it off but it is not budging. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  9. Finally got the pads & discs replaced. Feels so strange not to be experiencing the vibrations when braking. Got them done much cheaper than the main dealer wanted to charge me but this along with the back ones last month are bills that I would have preferred to avoid. I've put some pics up on the following link (hope it works) to show their condition. As can be seen, there was still plenty of kms left in them which is frustrating! http://www.briskoda.net/forums/gallery/album/1675-damaged-octavia-discs-pads/
  10. Thank you Owl, I appreciate the feedback. I'm definitely getting the discs & pads replaced. I'm just really annoyed with the main dealer as the issue never went away from the time I had the work done originally. I'm refusing to allow the main dealer to do it. Charging me through the nose for it. Thanks also for confirming the pad size. That's a big help!
  11. oh, crap! I clicked on it again just there & it brought me to the album with the pics. What's the usual way of attaching/uploading pics? (Sorry, I'm new to the forum & how it works!) I'll repost the link, just in case. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/gallery/album/1669-octavia-front-brake-pads-discs/ I posted them in the Gallery under the album "Octavia front brake pads & discs"
  12. Ok, so I took off the two front wheels today. Upon driving my car a neighbour suggested that the discs may be buckled/warped. While I had both wheels jacked up I rotated the wheels. The right wheel rotates but not without making regular contact regularly. The left is similar but not as severe. I took some photos, please see the following link. Any thoughts? http://www.briskoda.net/forums/gallery/album/1669-octavia-front-brake-pads-discs/
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