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Hi guys, I am looking into buying a new fabia, which would be my first new car. I have the option between 1.2TSI 90PS (5 gear manual) vs 110PS (6 gear manual). I do mostly country roads, 90km round trip daily. What do you suppose would be the main difference between the two apart from one being quicker. They are priced almost the same and I am thinking about the 6 gear manual. However, I am concerned whether this will impact fuel economy. By the way, what do you reckon is the actual fuel economy on country roads?

Sounds like a timing chain problem. Had mine changed recently. Cost 30€ (part) + 80€ (labor in a backalley garage). Basically, if your engine kind of sounds like it's a diesel, it's time to change the timing chain. Once I changed mine I noticed: -Quiterer all around -Quicker and smoother acceleration -Lower fuel consumption Bumpy idle persisted though, but became less bumpy.

Phantom, yes you should obtain the exact part number. I've read somone here bought three motors or so before they got the right one. I think it's safe to say the other ones didn't work. The difference is really in the last letter. Oh, and do check ebay for it...might be more convenient Best of luck, mate.

I suspect it's the driver's side window motor / PCB that's toast. The PCB controls power windows on both sides and (windowside) button operated central locking. I haven't got electric power mirors on my car, but I would imagine it would be operated from it as well. I could be wrong though. However, once the driver's side motor/PCB fails, the entire system that's routed through it collapses.

Good evening! I was wondering if anyone knew how to repair door "retainers" (the thing that keeps an open door solidly open)? Could someone point me in the correct directions (for starters, educating me with correct terminology ) Is this a difficult job to DIY? What part am I after? Cheers.

Updating on my progress: Lead on by my suspicion that the window motor was broken, I found one from a breaker's yard for 20€. I screwed the motor on in the breaker's parking lot and voila, the drivers side started to work instantly! Central locking came to life as well! However, I then discovered that the passenger side was not working. Just now I disassembled the passenger door and found that the connectors to the motor were both disconnected. I suspect that the previous owner tried to find the fault, but gave up and left them unconnected. Can't complain, as I was mentally ready to drive 50 miles to the breaker's and obtain a new one. Both windows now work, but the passenger side switch is not working. The rocker on top does not seem to press down the buttons inside properly, as I can operate the window pressing on the little grey buttons inside with a screwdriver. I'll see if I can fix this myself, as their prices are a bit silly for what you are getting.

Cleaned off the PCB with some fairy liquid and a toothbrush (as read online), but still nothing. Someone on Briskoda said that you can test the motor by checking its resistance between - and + points and I got an "infinite" reading. Is anyone able to advise if this is a correct way to know if the motor is actually blown? All cables going into the PCB seem to be responsive (12v in the main power cables, other cables have voltage changes when fiddling with switches). Also, just got quoted 210€ for a new unit from my dealer. Hardly happening. Two options now, really - either go hunting for a fairly rare spare part or attempt to engineer something completely new in the windows' plac.e For anyone else fixing their electric windows, please note that there are many variations of the same part, although they look exactly the same. The difference, however, is crucial and it is highly likely they are not interchangable. For instance, I have a part number 6Q1 959 802 (without a suffix). Other part numbers i've encountered are 6Q1 959 802 A, 6Q1 959 802 D, 6Q1 959 802 F.

Had a look at the wire connectors with a multimeter and looks like despite damage, they are still working. Took the door apart and somewhat unwittingly took out the PCB. Then found that it was very badly corroded.

Just checked the drivers' side wires leading to the driver's door and found two incompletely snapped cables attached to the brown connector. It's one of the two vertical connectors, the one further away. Anyone know what it's in charge of? My efforts looking online tell me it's either: 2 - Mirror, CAN-Bus 3 - Door contact, warning lamps

Brilliant. Many thanks. (y)

Hello fellow Briskodians, I was wondering if you could assist me with finding out the part number for the parcel shelf left bracket (?). Looks like the pic below. Mine unfortunately snapped off :( Can't seem to find the part number or know what its technical name is.

Hello, I am a noob when it comes to cars, but undertaking the little project of making the power windows work before the possibly boiling hot summer on my Fabia 1.4 MPI is something I decided to undertake as unavoidable. I was wondering if someone could point me in the correct direction. Symptoms: -Power windows totally dead, although the switches look and feel crisp, fresh and little used. -Passenger side power window is not working at all. -No electric sound or any response at all from pushing the buttons. -Central locking button on driver's side is also totally dead. -Central locking works totally fine from the remote and so does the alarm. My first guess was that this could be a problem with the central control module, but it would make sense that central locking would not work from the remote either if it was toast? Where should I be looking for the problem? EDIT: the fuses look fine. Big thanks!

152k here.

Greetings! I recently bought a Skoda Fabia 1.4 MPI for a bargain. I then started to notice that something is not quite right with the engine - it sounded like a diesel, almost like an old ford transit, when idling. Extremely shaky. There was also a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust. When on idle, the on board computer was showing fuel consumption of 2.5 liters per hour. I was figuring it must be a worn timing chain. However, I then changed the oil and the filter and soon started noticing that the engine was distinctively quiter. There was a lot less smoke coming out of the rear - almost none visible at all, in fact. Finally, fuel consumption on idle fell to 0.8 liters per hour. What exactly just happened? I was really not expecting the oil change to make any difference whatsoever. Is it a case of the old oil being ancient? Cheers!