James19181

Cheers, managed to do it but didnt try that. In the end I found an old 5mm allen key so just chopped the short end down until I could get get it in

Sorry to dig this up, but I'm doing this at the moment. I have removed the old balljoint, but now trying to figure out how to stop the spindle spinnin kn the new one to do it up. Did others just butcher an allen key to make it fit??

Those venom ones look very good. I fancied lifters but when I did a search on the forums before there were some people saying that they could deform the wings, as they're not designed to take the weight,. That put me off so I can't verify it, but might be something to consider

Thanks for the replies, didn't think there would be any issues but wanted to see if anyone could think of anything I hadn't I hadn't thought about moving the rears to the front to use them up quicker - that's something to consider, but to be honest it's less to do with eeking out every mm of tread on the existing tyres and more just wanting to wait a few months to save some more cash before doing the rears. And yeh I've had a search around the forums - it's been discussed at length and there's good info, just couldn't see anything about mismatching sizes

Hi All, I know a lot of people use 225/45 instead of the standard 205/50, and I'd quite like to do the same to either save some cash, or possibly get a better tyre for the same price. I'm currently using standard 205/50 all round on spiders, however I'm only looking to change my fronts at the moment as there is quite a lot of grip left on my rears. I'd then change the rears to match the fronts in the future, but that may not be for a while. Without wanting to get into the discussion of whether the tyres with better grip should be on the front or rear, does anyone think it's likely to cause a problem running two different sizes front-rear? Cheers

Sorry to drag an old thread up, but can anyone confirm which is the 8 and 10mm bush? I need to replce the lower one on mine, but not sure of size Many thanks

Is that the "Varta Silver D15 Heavy Duty Car Battery 63AH SIZE 027" that suits the VRS? I need a new one, shame it's such a boring way to spend £55. Better than being stranded I suppose!

Hi all, My VRS has developed an annoying fault where it creaks when braking in the wet. It doesn't seem to do it at all in dry conditions, no matter what I throw at it, but in the wet it can do it with even with gentle braking, getting worse with harder breaking. It tends to be sort of the last second or two just as the car comes to a halt. In the cabin it sounds quite squeaky, but with the windows down it's much louder and makes more of a creak (if that makes sense??). Also can be felt through the gear stick, but not very strongly. Definitely coming from the front. Any thoughts??

I think most people tee into the vacuum hose between the manifold and FPR. Haven't got one myself, but have a search of the forums as it's been discussed Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That could be it... For now i've drilled a hole in the corner and put a key ring through jt - feels much more secure! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hmmmmmm.... brake servo hose?? perhaps one of these http://www.partsbase.org/skoda/octavia-oct-eu-2001-61171-vacuum-hoses-for-brake-servo/ Not the most enlightening of pictures... PN#1J0612041ES? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5098675-Breather-hose-with-check-valve

Is it 21 in this? http://www.partsbase.org/media/images/vw/0d73ef43b3f5b7ef08af1d915122a55b.png If so PN is 1J0133366Q

When I got my Octavia a couple of months ago the loops on both keys for attaching to a keyring were broken as in this picture: I replaced the case with one off ebay for around a fiver, and now that one has broken too. Has anyone else had much problem with these? Do you think I got unlucky with a low quality replacement and should try another seller, or has anyone got any advice as to where they got a decent replacement from? I don't really fancy paying what Skoda are asking for an OEM key... My mate also has a TT which has a slightly different design, and seems more robust, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A2-A3-A4-A6-A8-2-Button-Remote-Key-Fob-Case-Blank-HAA-Key-CR2032-Battery-/110969846685?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item19d6517b9d Has anyone tried sticking an Skoda blade and internals in one of them? Cheers

Couple of threads about it http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/147124-new-clutch-options/?p=1838424&fromsearch=1#entry1838424 http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/150787-clutchflywheel-review/ And this is the kit ECP do which I think includes everything you need, but don't take my word for it http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_1.8_2002/p/car-parts/car-transmission/clutch-and-associated-parts/solid-flywheel-conversion-kit/?633780010&1&1a5b7dbded43aafb8424162ca328b758d21aafb9&000299 They also do a kit from a company called Transmech, but I've never heard of them and it seems a little too cheap...

Yep, sounds like microswitch. I need to do mine but seems like a pig of a job so have been putting it off guide here http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/126257-octavia-1-replacing-door-latch-microswitch/

I know ECP do a Valeo solid flywheel conversion kit which I guess is an alternative to the G60/VR6 solution - it's probably what I would/will go for when mine needs doing. No experience with it though.

I just replaced mine. Was a tenner on eBay but was the same rubber hose it replaced

Yeh I wouldn't have been surprised if it have been bit cooler, as obviously the front is hit with cool air first, but it was just that the front was pretty much cold, and the rear so hot I could only touch the metal for a couple of seconds. Perhaps I'll leave it to stand for 10 mins after I next drive it and see if it equalises out a bit I've read on here low speed should kick in at 92°C - although I have also read people have owned their cars for months or years and only had the fans kick in once or twice! perhaps I'm worrying over nothing...

My rad fans don't come on when the engine is hot (I've used to torque app and it doesn't come on even when that's showing 96°C+, though I always take that with a pinch of salt) - I've jumpered the terminals that connect to the fan switch on the radiator, and they operate fine then, so I'm fairly certain a new switch is in order. I'm not too worried, as the car's temp gauge has never gone past 90, but as I intend to flush and replace the coolant soon I think I might as well change it. But during my investigations, I've noticed that even after a long drive, the front face of the radiator feels cool, but the back face is scalding. Is this normal? I kind of expected the front to feel at least warm, and if the fan switch is picking up a temperature near this, it could explain why the fans aren't coming on cheers

Funny you should say that, ordered a TB gasket this morning so I can do that

Hi Paul, Cheers for the input - I might just leave it alone then and let it sort itself out. Unfortunately, living in Guernsey, there's nobody near me with VCDS! I have a code reader which came with an OBD-USB cable as well - So I'm guessing I should be able to use that with VCDS lite. TBH I didn't realise registered VCDS lite allowed you to do TBA etc. so I'll go and have an investigate - the code reader has already been well worth the £30 that cost.

I've replaced the following things lately on separate occasions as they had failed: Rocker cover breather hose All coils after 1 failed and last night, the hose from PCV valve to inlet manifold After doing each of these, the car has thrown a bit of a wobbly for a couple of days, e.g. rough(er) idle, on occasion throwing a MAF error, then settled down. I'm guessing this is to do with the was the ECU learns to run for it's given conditions, and when I change those conditions e.g. by replacing a leaky hose, it has to a) realise that and adapt to it? I was wondering if it's worth clearing the ECU learnt values by disconnecting the battery? (I don't have vagcom) Does anyone know if doing that would require a TBA? I haven't been able to find a definitive answer so far... that's the only thing stopping me just having a go at the moment Cheers EDIT: That wasn't supposed to be a guy in sunnies, but whatever, I can dig it

Cheers, will give that a bash

Evening all Looking to replace my lower arm balljoints and having a flick through the Haynes manual suggest I need to remove the hub carriers.... Seems a bit excessive (it wanted me to remove the alternator when I did the thermostat too) and a PITA Is it possible to do with the hub carriers in place, just whipping the wheels off? Or is space just too restictive? Cheers Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

FYI today I just unplugged the connector going to the SAI pump and whacked in a resistor because I was getting fed up with it running like a bag of bolts until the pump shut off - will do a proper delete at some point. I used a 330ohm 10W resistor which is what seemed to be recommended elsewhere... no CEL yet, but obviously early days used this resistor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELWYN-WH5-330R-JI-RESISTOR-10W-5-330R-/271177871615?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160