Pippylongstocking

Allo HuwPew. in short-no. at length, having scoured the interwebworld for replacement turbos, for that is what is needed here, and having found that they cost an absolute packet, I decided on a slightly more cheapskate option. I modified the way i drive the car. I noted carefully how and when the issue occurred, which was usually when cold and being asked to give a lot of power on lowish revs ( under 2000rpm). I started to drive it like I was Hannu Mikkola, keeping the engine happy and buzzing at over 2000rpm .It doesn't seem to damage fuel economy at all, in fact, I think it is better with the engine lightly-loaded. It can, and does still throw the fault occasionally ( as opposed to every blooming day), usually, if I have been pootling along at a steady speed at about 2000 ish in 5th. Ignoring the gear-change indicator comes easily. I just watch the tach and listen to the buzz of the engine. it is really, really happy between 2000 and 3000. So i try and change-up so the next gear drops in at 2000-ish when i need to get a move on. Otherwise, it pootles around at lower revs if power is not needed. It also does throw the fault on start-up sometimes, when I notice the initial idle is at about 1400rpm for a few moments before dropping down to 800-ish. That tells me that the engine is dumping a load of soot on the actuator mechanism in the turbo, and I should be wary. That only seems to happen when the outside temperature is neither here nor there, not properly cold, or warm, but somewhere in the 8-15 degrees range. To be Fair, this really isn't a great deal different to the way i drove my air-cooled VWs all those years ago. Those marks on the speedo for gear changes were there for a reason. So fixed it -no. Made it less of a problem- yes. BTW, I only run it on Tesco Millenium 99 octane, or similar. None of that E10 nonsense here.

the headscratching goes on. I took it over to my mechie on Monday morning ( it behaved impeccably on the way there), they lined it up on the vcds, calibtrated it, and 2 mins and a few quid lighter, off I drove. it behaved impeccably on the way back. Went to the shops at lunchtime and ...gotcha. It has gotcha'd me a few more times since. This is turning into the quest for the Holy Grail, is it not.

Thanks Thomas. There is no adjustment on the rod, it's a fixed length. Unfortunately, the old one was so badly siezed in the mounting bracket that there was no comparing lengths, as I had to butcher it to remove it. All the searches I have done on the part number of the old one, throw up a result with the new one as being correct. It only engages the actuator lever at the extreme short end of the rod's travel ( at the actuator end of things, when the rod is retracted) i went out for a drive early this afternoon, absolutely no issues. Went for another as you were posting this, and it threw up the epc 3 times. 1st two cleared on ignition key, 3rd one threw an exhaust system light as well. cleared those on the OBDI II. All fairly out of the blue, but during acceleration, but nothing outrageous, just normal picking up speed. Nothing after that, but came home and did the 20 on and off ignition reset with a hot engine, as opposed to the cold one yesterday. Fingers crossed, but I'll sound my mechie about about a reset on the VCDS thing. I know I can get the shim out in about 5 minutes flat if I have to.

Thanks for that Xman. I did the reset 20 times, fired her up, and the Exhaust system warning light was on. Cleared that with the OBDI II , and went for a long drive. At about 2 miles out, I was accelerating briskly from about 35mph in 4th, and EPC light came on and power-chop. Stopped, cleared with ignition on and off. Drove on, trying to provoke it again with "plenty of beans in the low revs" behaviour. Nothing. Nowt. Behaved impeccably. But of course, it has done that before for a few days at a time over the last fortnight since I changed the actuator. There is still a 'gertcha' in there, I know there is. Thanks for all the assistamce so far, please keep it coming.

ok. I have slept on all the advice and info so far. 1) just the bonnet open, I cannot move the rod at all. I'm assuming this is how it is meant to be. I put a post it note on it to observe what happens next ( video will follow if I can work out how to uplaod it) 2) Ignition on. the rod jiggles about left and right a bit and then rests. 3) engine fired up. The rod moves according to the need for boost. rev the engine, it moves left ( as seen looking at the engine from in front, that's away from the actuator), moves right at idle. 4) engine off, the rod goes all the way over to the left and stays there. That's away from the actuator and where it started from. There is also a fairly quiet, but noticeable high-pitched hum from the actuator, which continued for about a minute, even with the key out of the ignition. Curiouser and curiouser. No faults thrown while this was done. Turbo actuator fault 2 2021-03-20 at 11.21.20_Trim.mp4

Thanks Xman. I'll give them the once over and see what I can work out. watch this space...

Thanks Xman, yes the old actuator had the shim fitted, I had to prise it off and clean it up with a wire brush before fitting to the new unit, which is really new, made by a bunch I've never heard of called MaXpeeding rods. The length seemed spot on, as the pin on the shaft/blade only engaged with the actuator lever at its nearest -to-the actuator travel. everything fits square on, but i see the lower mounting nut has a few threads of the bolt showing, but the upper one doesn't. I had my mechie clear the errors with VCDS, but a few miles after that, the fault threw again. it clears with ignition off/on sometimes, or throws the exhaust system light as well as the epc. At the moment it is like playing golf against someone whose handicap is two " gertchas", if you remember the joke.

Allo again everyone, not long since bought a mid 2011 Fabia II 1.2tsi for the kids. 66k miles and in very good condition. The car came with theintemittent wastegate fault, but the previous owner gave me a brand new actuator to replace it with. OBDB II codes P334a, P334b, and P334c came up in turns. Changed the actuator, had to hacksaw the shaft of the old one, as the collar was so corroded and siezed in the mounting that there was no getting out tidily. Installed the new one in an hour, as opposed to the four taken to tickle the old one out. Everything was fine for a few days, then the faults came back. No rhyme or reason, accelerating or not, sometimes on start-up, mainly during driving. I am now adept at pulling over and clearing the codes with the scanner. Any ideas what is going on? The lever for the wastegate was nice and free moving when I checked it before mounting the new one. It is a shame this unpredictable problem is spoiling the car for driving. all contributions welcome, I have read all the posts i could find here and no0one seems to be having the same trouble after fitting a new actuator.

sadly, no clicking from any sensors, the " ops not available" message comes on straight away when selecting reverse. one of them does appear to be in pretty bad shape, paint chipped off and looking corroded. They look to be a swine to get at as well. Ho-hum,

Thanks for that. I shall have to dig out my hearing aids and have a listen, or dangle one of my sharp-eared kids in front of each sensor in turn. I did run an OBDII scan, no error codes popped up at all. More news later. Happy New Year to all.

Allo Chums, not been on for ages as nothing has ailed the car...until now. This last few weeks the OPS system has gone on holiday. Whenever in manoevering mode, it flashes a message " OPS not available " and beeps continually until I touch the screen or the flashing button on the console. Can't call it up via the console button either, and the park assist doesn't work ( not that I'd noticed, still not used it after five and a half years). Any ideas. I did search, but nothing matching came out.

in which case, would it be possible to come and inspect/possibly buy/collect them this weekend at some time. I'm not far from you, and could pop over to Harrogate, or meet somewhere in the middle. The wheel data all look satisfactory to me, but I'm not a Skoda expert, hence the obsessive question.

Sorry to sound obsessive Martin, will they fit a 2009 Superb Hatch elegance ? We currently have the 18" Luxons with summer rubber

Are these still available?

Excellent set of pix and a good blow-by-blow. I was undecided on vacuuming vs draining, but my bad back made the decision for me. I bought a 12v oil suction pump from the westfalia catalogue, about £20,and have been using it on all our cars ever since. That's well over 200,000 miles in the last eight years or so, and no problems ( apart from dislodging the output pipe accidentally and squirting a bit of oil on the drive, giving myself a mucky badge of honour). I noticed that Lidl sold a very similar looking gizmo a few weeks ago for £12-ish. I always change oil well ahead of schedule. I also suck it out into empty graduated oil canisters or similar. That gives me a rough idea of how much has come out. Don't forget the volume will be greater when the oil is hot, as it does expand, hence all the good advice about checking levels on the dipstick with the engine up to full temperature. If I suck out 4.5 litres, and I know I only put 4 litres in last time, the difference can only be expansion, or expansion and other fluids. If I wanted to be completely mythbuster-y about it, I'd check the old oil next day when it has cooled. I'm not that far gone yet....I think. the pump is a boon if you accidentally overfill the sump.

Knowlsey, thanks very much for this useful thread. Did it in 10 mins on Sunday. That's just about the same time as it took to change the Bluetooth unit. I'm enjoying working on this Superb so far...

Well fellow Skodians, I have to give all of you on this thread a big thanks. the module arrived at 1300 today. By 1320 the glw's I-phone was fully paired up . I can't seem to synch the phonebook from my Samsung Galaxy, but I'm not bothered that much, it is after all, the glw's car. The galaxy does music stream, but only to the right hand channel. I'll bone up and see if I can cure that as well. thanks again everyone.

Thanks Gizmo. I had blundered into that courtesy of the search function. I've ordered the 'better' module from Germany. I'll let you all know how the installation went.

Well, after using the search for iphone troubles , I found this excellent thread. As a direct result, I ditched my plan to fit a parrot kit and have ordered, for about the same cost as a fitted parrot ck3100, a 5KO module from a German retailer on ebay. The car must have successfully paired with the previous owner's phone, as it still flashes his details into the MFD on start-up Am I right in thinking that I won't need to fit microphones etc, just change the 3C8 module under the driving seat for the 5KO one? . :wonder:

Thanks for the welcomes. Also thanks for the parrot recommendation. I have a ck3100 in our other motor, and I think it's going to have to be a similar hard-wired, powered-up from the car electrics version that we go for. but for a cigar-lighter kit, that is very handsome indeed. I love the dsg box in this superb.it's like a games compendium all on its own. Sorry for posting in the wrong zone.

We had an Octavia II some years ago, but have just added a 2009 Superb II 2.0PDI DSG hatch to the family. What a belting car it is. The only problem I can see with it is the iphone and Samsung phones we have won't couple up. Any suggestions coming in cheaper than a top spec parrot will be gratefully received. Lovely site here, congrats to the mods and the users.