dutyhog

Thanks Inspectorman and Nigel. I hadn't previously read all of these VW self-studies, so it was helpful to go through them all. I did charge the new battery overnight before installing to make sure it was full, and again on the car a few days later after spending time at home running it down a bit looking at the system. Our usual journey is the 20 mile drive to the town, It's mostly on a winding, hilly single track road and not above 4th gear and 30mph until we get to a main road for the last 2 miles. There are frequent stop/starts to let cars pass the other way, and to avoid sheep, deer etc. Maybe the charging schedule is similar to driving in a busy town? (The particle filter stays clear. So the engine must run suitably fast/hot for long enough.) My multimeter is fairly upmarket, and DC voltage is specified as within 0.5%. But I suppose it could have drifted - I haven't calibrated it for several years. I used to work in a university electronics department , with good access to useful kit. (I once needed accurate voltage to challenge our home electricity supplier.) It does still agree well with another good meter that I keep on my boat. I know how instrument that display voltage aren't necessarily particularly accurate - one on my boat reads 0.2V lower than the meter across it and another 0.25V higher. I may seem like looking for too much in this, but it's my nature to wonder if something a bit unexpected is a clue to a problem. The MOT is on 6th December, and I don't want tot risk being without a car. There is a bus twice a week from a bus stop 9 miles from home - not much use to us. So I'll wait until the sensor is replaced before doing anything else.

I should add that I hope all the warning lights are related to only the left hand front wheel rotation sensor. The sensor and hub magnet are being replaced next Thursday by my local garage.

I've been diagnosing with the Carista app and Carista OBD2 on my 2014 Yeti Greenline 1.6TDI. I may ask another question on that, but right now is it normal for the OBD to read the battery voltage as lower than a multimeter across the battery teminals? It's typically about 0.3V lower, sometimes even more. I replaced the original battery this week, thinking it wasn't holding charge well enough to be confident of starting over the winter, and suspecting that a low voltage may contribute to the half dozen yellow warning lights I get. With the old battery the ODB had read 11.8V (before starting the engine) after leaving the car overnight - with the new battery that's now about 12.2V in the morning. With the engine running it reads from about 13V to 14.5V when driving along, which seems good for charging. The "096 Enduroline AGM Stop Start Car Battery 12V 70Ah" from Tanya came at 12.85V by my multimeter. Yesterday evening I drove 20 miles to a meeting then 20 miles back home, so it should be well charged still. The multimeter read 12.85V this morning. When I connected the ODB2 and turned on the ignition the ODB read 12.3V and the multimeter 12.53V. After turning the ignition off the ODB read 12.2V and the battery terminals read 12.8V. Is it just getting reasonable voltage drops, or is there a fault? I did get ABS/EBrake light. Error 00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 for a while after changing the battery and recoding it, but it disappered after a few miles.

Any comments on how to deter mice from biting cables and fuel hoses on my Yeti? First time was on the night before a Christmas Eve when they ruined the cable to an injector. That cost me many £hundreds, the car being transported 200 miles, and several weeks wait. The other two included this week - they mainly bit through fuel hoses. I didn't notice until after driving several miles and back home, then finding there was a trail of diesel and a big smelly puddle. I've tried the stinking spray approach (E-Tech RatStop Rodent Repellant), and maybe that has deterred them - but not enough. I guess that they go into the engine bay when it gets dark and the engine is still warm after a journey, and maybe aren't interested when it's cold. I don't go out much nowadays, so will try respraying the stinking stuff after a journey that gets me back home in the dark. I haven't finished replacing fuel hoses - still waiting for more from ebay. One thing I'll try is hose sheathed in woven stainless steel and wonder if others use it. And what about putting lengths of wider hose or pipe over cables and fuel hoses to slow down the destruction? Or I could easily cut HEP20 hot water pipe into short lengths and slit them to squeeze over where wanted. Gordon

I wonder if my air conditioning really needs servicing every 2 years. It's not been touched yet after 4 year, and I've still only covered 22000 miles. The air conditioning hasn't been used often, it's very cold when wanted, and it doesn't smell. Will a a normal Škoda agent service show whether or not it needs any attention at all? Gordon