VRSPhil

Hi guys My parents have a 2013 Yeti Greenline. It’s a fairly basic model with A/C but it doesn’t have the dual zone climatronic stuff. Recently their A/C has stopped working. They took it to get looked at and the garage identified that it does actually work, but the temperature gauge needs rotating slightly AWAY from the coldest position. As you do this, the A/C cuts in and is ice cold. The garage has run basic settings on the flap motors, without any change. They say that it needs a new control motor. I have VCDS, so I’m thinking of sorting it myself, but wondered if anyone had come across this fault before? I’m guessing it’s the v159 motor? I’m not sure how they’ve ruled out the control dial being the culprit, however, the garage are well regarded in this area so I’ll inclined to trust their diagnosis. Any thoughts would be appreciated Cheers, Phil.

I have the Westfalia detachable on my 2016 vRS hatch, and the tow bar looks just like the one above. The defuser is different, but the cutout is similar and it's equally invisible.

Mine is doing this, too. iOS 10.0.2 with an iPhone 7 plus. Probably 60-70% of the time it's fine. The rest of the time is just refuses to connect!

Well, I've just done mine. I planned to take pictures along the way, but I was quite pushed for time before work so sadly, didn't. It was a little fiddly, but the wiring itself was easy enough. I studied the instruction manual quite a bit before starting. It's not very clear, but once you understand their logic, it's ok. The worst part for me was removing the trim down the side of the car.... taking care not to break clips etc. Once that's off, you need to access the BCM which is quite fiddly. I managed to remove the relevant plugs with it in situ, by pulling the unit to one side with one hand, and removing the plug with the other. Not ideal, but I couldn't see a simple way of removing the unit. The connections here are quite straight forward, as are those into the fuse box. I had two pegs welded to the inside of the N/S/R wheel arch, which fitted the mounting holes on the Westfalia control module, so I'm guessing that's what they're for. Coding was easy enough.... I followed the pinned VCDS thread which has the coding procedure. All appears to work fine, I get a little caravan on the satnav screen when reversing, an extra green flashing light when I indicate, and the rear fogs/parking sensors switch off as expected. On the whole, worth the effort I think. Cheers.

Mine did this and it drove me insane. I finally fixed it after finding a tip on here. Remove the end cover to the dash on the passenger side (visible with the door open). Slacken off the torx bolts holding the end of the dash, and push the dash firmly towards the front of the car. Whilst maintaining this pressure, nip the bolts back up and replace the end cap. I did this and my dash was silent afterwards. Bliss!

Thanks 'waytootall', that's perfect. KennONeill: that button is not obviously present when viewing the site via a mobile, but thank you for that.

Regards*!!

Hello. Can anyone advise on which side the BCM Is in a 2016 vRS? Retards.

Well, I went for the westfalia kit in the end. So far I've mounted the socket (when fitting the bar) and fed the wires through, into the boot. The rest of the kit doesn't look much fun to fit, but I haven't studied the instructions in detail yet (such as they are). Fingers crossed!

Thanks for the reply. Does he westfalia kit operate as per the original Skoda kit (showing trailer on the infotainment screen etc) Also, I don't plan to buy the additional switched charging cable, but was wondering... if it's fitted at a later date, does the bumper need to come off again?

Thanks for the reply. Does he westfalia kit operate as per the original Skoda kit (showing trailer on the infotainment screen etc) Also, I don't plan to buy the additional switched charging cable, but was wondering... if it's fitted at a later date, does the bumper need to come off again?

I haven't managed to get a kit yet. So far, I've tried two dealers and neither have had any idea what 'towing prep' means (I don't have it), and have been unable tell me if the kit differs between cars which do/don't have it. The third dealer I've tried has not called me back yet, like they said they would, so I'll call them again in the morning.

Hello all I'm about to attempt to fit a detachable westfalia towbar to my 2016 vRS hatch. Has anyone fitted the genuine Skoda wiring kit? My car doesn't have towing prep, and I was just looking for any tips on how difficult/time consuming it is? I have VCDS so coding shouldn't be an issue, but any pointers in terms of what needs coding would also be handy. I know the central electrics and front assist need changing, but I'm not sure what else? Any help greatfully received Phil.

Hello, just a quick one... Whilst out and about today, my airbag warning light came on, along with an error message in the maxidot. A quick scan with VCDS indicated the drivers side impact sensor. On inspecting the wiring, I found a broken wire inside the rubber boot between the drivers door and the A-pillar... Once repaired and the fault reset, it has not returned. I'm just posting this as I found another had experienced an identical fault, and thought it might be of use to someone else to know about it.... Especially before forking out on a new sensor. Here is the offending wire: http://tinypic.com/r/2dsnxih/9 I soldered mine with a couple of layers of shrink wrap to add strength.

All sorted, many thanks for all the replies, as always! Slight issue, possibly caused by my incompetence, possible caused by poorly made locking tools! After the belt was fitted, I spun the engine and checked the timing... All was well.... Until I then removed the timing pin from the camshaft pulley. Despite being gently pushed in, it was jammed solid in the hole. Long story short; it snapped, I swore lots and had to start again (after taking the new belt and camshaft pully off, to drill out the broken pin). Other than that, the rebuilding was much quicker than I thought, and it's running perfectly now. Thanks again

Thanks for the replies. I'm confident the crank and cam are in the correct locations. So, I rotate anti clockwise to line the lug and hole up, then insert the pin and refit the belt?

This is how the instructions show it;

This is mine. The little lug doesn't move as I turn the engine (prior to belt removal)

Hello I'm half way through changing the cambelt on my vrs cr170 (CEGA) engine, and am a little confused with the fuel pump. I've got the locking tool set and have locked off the crank and cam shafts in TDC. The pdf instruction guide I'm following shows a locking tool being used on the high pressure fuel pump pulley, but mine is way out, compared to the diagram. Can anyone advise the procedure for correcting, or do I leave it where it is? Pics to follow... Many thanks

Hello all I'm planning to change my cam belt and water pump imminently. I've read the Haynes manual and also found the video below. The Haynes is a generic 'Octavia diesel' manual, and the video is for a VW 2.0 tdi. I'm reasonably confident with the procedure, based on these two guides, but just wanted confirmation from someone who has done the job that the video is accurate? Many thanks Phil https://youtu.be/fAi667H7M2Y

The vehicle isn't for sale. It belongs to a colleague. I said I would scan it/look for anything obvious. It was fine until the gearbox was replaced last week. I'm starting to think the cluster or ECU may have been damaged when the battery was disconnected/reconnected.

Hello. Before I sign up to a VW specific forum, can anyone suggest any reasons why the odometer on a be beetle would reset to zero after a gearbox change? Sensor missed off somewhere? I was under the impression that the mileage was stored in the ECU/cluster so I'm a bit stumped. It's a petrol engine with manual box. Not sure of the engine size as I haven't seen it yet, but it's not a V5/6 or a turbo. Any ideas appreciated!

Hello All Wondered if anyone could advise if steering controller 5K0 953 569 AG will support cruise? It's a 63 plate Yeti Greenline 2 with MFSW. I have checked the Rosstech website but it's not listed as far as I can see. Many thanks

Hello all... My EML came in some time ago and the fault relates to the intake manifold flap. I've searched but can only find reference to this fault on the petrol engines. I ran basic settings with vcds, but this didn't help. Initially the fault appeared to only happen when starting the engine after a short run, but now it seems to be there all the time. I've stripped the manifold flap unit down and it's quite simple inside. I was hoping to find a broken connection or something, but no such luck. It appears that there is a sensor built into the plastic cap which covers the mechanism, presumably to monitor the position of the flap (there looks to be a square magnet which moves close to the sensor as the flap opens). Now... My local dealer wants £460 for a replacement, which is ludicrous in my opinion. Even if the whole thing was broken, it isn't worth anything like that much. I was really wondering if anyone else had experienced this fault and found a cheaper solution? I'm contemplating looking for a used one. I'm guessing (since it's anti tamper) the cap isn't available separately. It's a bit of a frustrated rant really, but thoughts would be appreciated. Phil

Hello Just venturing over from the Octy 2 forum to ask if you guys could advise.... Will a columbus from a mk2 fl octavia for in a rapid, of do they use a different shape unit? Thanks Phil