FB011964

Have you done this yourself Silver?? If so I would be interested on method, location (I believe it is housed behind one of the wheel arch liners but not 100% sure), type/make of replacement battery and source for same. Mine still works from new but I'm sure its running on borrowed time.

Having had a semi functional switch for some time now (locks ok but will not unlock, no matter how many times the switch is pressed), I followed your guide with ease, accessing the switch through the gear lever gator. On dismantling the switch I expected to find the circuit board and contacts "gummed up", but was surprised to find this was not the case with minimal, if any, signs of anything to interfere with switch contact. After cleaning both the circuit board contacts and the small rubber contact pads using some isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud, there was some visible "dirt" on the cotton bud. Having reassembled the switch I am pleased to report the switch is now working as it should. Thanks again for your guide.

I was referring to Main dealers who in my experience mostly operate with you booking the car and then leaving it with them for however long during the day. (and yes I realise you can request to wait while it is serviced/MOT'd etc, but most people do not wish to, or are unable to). My main point for Stuart was to SEPARATE the MOT station from the SERVICE & REPAIR facility if he was not confident with the advisories given and this would maybe limit his feeling of revenue generating advisories. (and yes I realise not all garages or main dealers use MOT's or services to record unnecessary advisories which generate revenue. Some MAY do though).

Stuart, I have been in a similar boat with regard to advisories during services and health checks at main dealer, and especially from the MOT at the same main dealer. I have to admit, I rarely had 100% confidence in some of the advisories which seemed to appear at this time but not during my regular weekly vehicle checks. I would recommend (as I have done) you separate your service and MOT provider and source a local independent MOT test station. I found and used the following site (which I have no affiliation to) to source an independent MOT test station local to me with no service and repair facility incorporated or with any motivation to "generate income": http://www.ukmot.com/ATF-MOT-Test-Centers/UK (It also contains other useful information on the MOT test etc) You will possibly find a council test station or as I did, local police or fire authority test station. you could also search other sources. One point to note, having recently used an independent MOT test station (my local police authority), It was the first time in a long while I have been able to sit (in the authorised customer viewing area) and watched the full MOT from start to finish and been fully satisfied with the outcome (even if it was a full pass). Needles to say I will be using the same station again in future. How many of us have actually done this at a main dealer, even though the rules for ALL MOT test stations state they must have a customer viewing area. More than likely it's a case of drop it off and then wait for the phone call to either authorise works or to go and collect it when complete, all without having the opportunity to talk to the tester about any "advisories".

This may be a late response as I have only just read your post. When removing my battery to recharge it off the car the first time I used the remote fob to unlock. This resulted in the alarm activating as soon as I disconnected the first battery terminal. The correct sequence I subsequently have used without any issues are as follows: 1. Unlock the drivers door using the key, not the remote. 2. Cycle the ignition (key in ignition, turn on - no need to start - turn off) 3. Disconnect and remove the battery 4. Relock the drivers door using the key When refitting the battery open the drivers door using the key again and once reconnected ensure you reset the electric windows and central locking (this is detailed in the Skoda manual (Page 221, page 47)

Have you tried a "Reset", as in ensuring all windows closed, unlock using key only (not remote), disconnecting then reconnecting the battery and then performing the reset for the windows in accordance with the manual after removing/replacing battery? I had a similar issue with one of my rear windows opening on its own when I remotely locked the doors, after recharging battery off the car, but not following the correct Reset for electric windows and central locking (plus the additional short drive to clear the ABS lights etc).

You could maybe try some strong adhesive tape or something similar and a swift pull (may need some cleaning afterwards to remove any adhesive residue). Unless they are clogged with muck they should pop out easily.

I have been using one of these too for a few weeks having also experienced totally fogged windscreen. Last year it was actually frozen on the inside a few times!! The ice fresh smells ok too. Got to say though, as well as having the bag located on the stowage box on top of the dash, I also close all the vents before leaving the car overnight, as leaving them open may only draw in more moisture quicker. Oh yeah, Merry Christmas!!!

That's the price of owning a car with lots of electronic sensors and control units, the potentially high prices for replacement electronic components and or techs to fix them when they go wrong. I am not advocating that this be done, but if you wished to save on the £3k bill wouldn't it be a simple case of obtaining either a "Wrench with a monkey attached to it" or a "Monkey wrench" and disconnecting the prop shaft and maybe the Haldex electrics? This would possible affect your ABS and any other associated integrated systems (ESP, ABS, TCS, HHC etc). It would probably light your dash like a Christmas tree and most probably put you, the vehicle, any occupants and any other road users at risk and likely void your insurance if not declared. Probably best to get it fixed and accept the cost, or buy a car that is cheaper to maintain. That's why I wish I still had some of my older vehicles. Cheap for parts, mostly a doddle to fix, and easy to repair for most DIY mechanics. In all honesty though, the Octavia Scout drives like a pig on FWD only, as I can attest, having driven it briefly in this condition.

If it's any help, I have been with Skoda Assistance since July 2007, when I bought my vehicle new. On renewal in 2010/11 I think Skoda Assistance was provided via the AA. On renewal in 2011, Skoda assistance was provided via RAC. On renewal in 2013 (I got 2 years until June 2015) the Skoda Assistance card I received was headed RAC on the LHS and Skoda on the RHS with Skoda assistance across the bottom. Recently I received a letter direct from RAC informing me that from 1st June 2014 Skoda Roadside Assistance would be provided DIRECTLY by RAC and the telephone number was changing to a chargeable 0333 2000 999 number ONLY from a previously free 0800 526 625 land line number or mobile friendly 0333 202 1869 number, and to replace my current membership card with the new "RAC" only referenced card and update my mobile with the new contact number. From 1st June 2014 all documents and correspondence will come directly from RAC and will no longer refer to Skoda Roadside Assistance. Nice to know the RAC don't provide free phone numbers any longer and no doubt have a wide selection of chamber/pop music to listen to while kept on hold for lengthy periods or scrolling through the various menu options, all the while being charged national call rates. Maybe us older Skoda vehicle owners have been "bumped" by Skoda Assistance direct and "sold off" to the highest bidder. It would be interesting for any Skoda owners (with vehicles under 3 years old) with Skoda Assistance to advise on who their Skoda Assistance breakdown service provider is, either still being dealt with by Skoda or directly with a breakdown service provider. I will be reviewing my options and breakdown service providers come renewal time.

I guess that's fortunate you won't be shelling out £3,164 Denis. If it was the case you had to pay, I would be getting the old parts back (Haldex CM etc) as there appears to be some residual value there to flog and recoup some cash. It is somewhat concerning with regards to the increased number of either Quality (fitness for purpose) and or performance issues, of what you would expect to be quite robust and sturdy components, with a reasonable working life expectancy. Sadly, with all the recent well publicised number of product failures resulting in either warranty/good will vehicle recalls of other manufacturers, methinks that some of that quality and robustness has been sacrificed for maintained or better profit margins through the recession. I only hope that after building a well respected brand name over the years, that Skoda hasn't also chosen the path of profit over Quality.

Well it was a little cheaper than I was originally quoted (£1005.24) and no doubt quotes for parts and labour may differ in other parts of the country. It may have been cheaper to drive over to the Czech Republic to have it fixed, seeing as that's where the new control unit was made/shipped from (according to the part label on the box). The cost of the Haldex control unit itself was £742.70 and then add to that labour and where you get your trousers taken down by the UK Government and good old VAT (thieving bar stewards ). Not as expensive as Denis' issue though or the chap who posted earlier on with what appears to be a similar problem in that he had the rear differential pack up on him and £3k to fix etc. I do hope this isn't yet another problem lurking for us Octavia Scout owners to encounter.

FINAL RESULTS/CONCLUSION: Hello all, Apologies for the delay in posting the results/conclusion to this post, as I had been awaiting full wiring/connector check and diagnostic by the Skoda tech at the garage to 100% determine if my problem with TCS/ESP light illuminated and what appeared to be only FWD, with no hill hold control etc. was in fact a failure of the Haldex 4x4 Control Module (J492). I informed the Skoda tech of the resulting fault codes obtained by having a VCDS scan run independently by an other helpful Briskoda member (results in previous posts). I requested and It was agreed that it would be best and most effective step to rebook the vehicle for a full diagnostic and wiring check to and from the Haldex Control Module (J492) to rule out any possibility of either wiring, connector or sensor faults elsewhere in the "system", and only then, if all proved to be clear, would the Haldex CM be replaced. I can now report that all wiring, connectors and sensors proved clear and the Haldex CM (J492) (Old part : 1K0 907 554 L) proved to be at fault and was replaced with new unit (Pt No: 1K0 525 130 L) including 2 year warranty. I am glad to say once again the Scout is back to her old self and feels great to drive Thanks to all who contributed to this post. Cheers, Martin

Yes based on the content of Denis' link I am frantically looking for wiring diagrams and 2007 Octavia Scout Haldex Gen II earth straps to determine if mine actually has one. I think there are 2 connector slots on the rear of the J492 CM so I am guessing one must be the earth. Only thing is I only managed to see one cable on that side as per my photo in post #31 above. As per the post Denis made there appear to be some VAG vehicles that do have the earth strap and some that don't (maybe they fell off or maybe they are earthed some other way). Before I look stupid tomorrow and request the Skoda tech to check the earth strap and also the connectors and change if corroded then retest the 4x4 operation and TCS/ESP has extinguished, BEFORE changing the J492 Haldex CM, is there anyone who can confirm 100% that the Skoda Octavia Scout 2.0TDi PD140 DPF 2007 (July) has an earth strap ???

Thanks Denis I appreciate your input, But as I explained in my previous entry, on my vehicle there is very little room above and behind the unit (for me) to gain adequate access to 1. See the connectors directly, 2. Get a screwdriver behind there to unlatch without damaging anything, 3. Seeing the condition of the connectors in the back of the J492 CM once connectors are off. I'm sure maybe it would be an easier job if the vehicle was 6' off the ground. In your link it looks like it would not be a case of taking the J492 off and putting it back on again and would need oil top up, possible new seals on the solenoid etc. This is why I was asking for a Skoda/VAG tech to give input on the actual requirements, as in what do they do in the garage to look at/check/clean the Haldex/cable connectors before changing the Haldex CM. I have until Tuesday first thing as that's when I am back at the dealer to discuss with the Skoda tech/book it in.

Hello all, Latest update: Today I finally managed to get the Scout jacked up and blocks under the nearside rear wheel to allow sufficient access/clearance to get a close look at the Haldex Gen II 4x4 Control Module (J492) and associated connector. Here is a pic I took which may assist in what I am talking about: Unfortunately it looks and feels as though the CM needs to be removed before the connector can be unplugged/disconnected from the back, as there appears to be such limited clearance before the connector hits something solid. Feeling around at the back where the connector is, there isn't much room at all. If there are any Skoda/VAG techs on here who could maybe advise if this is the case, i.e. the J492 Haldex 4x4 Control Module does need to be unbolted first before the connector can be removed/inspected it would be a great help. I guess it would make sense to then give a clear view of the condition of the connector on the back of the J492, as well as a view of the connector on the end of the cable.

I'm not sure of the specific part number or colour coding, but you may find the following link useful in searching for the item specific to your Scout Model Year/version. The specific part number may list colour codes. http://www.partsbase.org/skoda/octavia-oct-eu/ I hope it helps.

Hello All, Can anyone shed any light on the specific sizes of Torx bits and sockets required to remove the wheel arch trim and inner liners front and rear along with the plastic sill trim. Also if anyone is aware of any other panels/trims etc on the Scout using the Torx "star" type aperture fixing please comment on what sizes you have used. I think I read somewhere that T25, T27 may be required but would like to confirm before I buy a set of bits and sockets only to find I only need 2. Model is as per my profile. Thanks

That's what my Ex used to use on her face as oil of olay wasn't strong enough .......she looked good from a distance

Just a thought........ If I disconnect, clean, spray Servisol and reconnect any connectors do I need to disconnect the battery and will I need to get another scan to have the fault codes cleared before I know if the connector "jiggle" has worked?? (I posted this in another thread by accident yesterday so no wonder I didn't get a response ) I couldn't get any access to the Haldex control module today even with the Scout 4x4 ground clearance. I needed to get a trolley jack and some axle stands and wheel chocks before getting underneath. As much as I admire the larger female, I wouldn't want this "fat lady" on top of me....no sir!! They will come in handy when I need the wheels off to clean anyways, and any other vehicle DIY I may undertake.

Sound advice I would agree with that. A pity I gave my axle stands away but I will try and get under the beast tomorrow. I am assuming I have to get underneath as the Skoda Tech left the rear nearside seat base up and tilted forward and the carpet/padding lifted exposing a roundish plastic cover and some cables and a connector over a recessed housing which is yellow in colour, but this is inside the vehicle. Would you be able to point me in the direction of a photo of what I should be looking for under there connector wise. I am assuming they would have some sort of retainer latch or clip affair that will need unlatching to disconnect. Scratch that. DGW just posted this http://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11383/tiguan_haldex_gen4.pdf (credits to DGW) in another thread and it looks like it shows me the J492 module and connectors on a GEN2 Haldex so it will just be a matter of if I can reach them ok. I have some Super Servisol 10 I use for all my music gear electrical connectors I could give the connector(s) a squirt with, if I can reach them. Regarding the point of ensuring the 4X4 Control Module is replaced and not just a "jiggle" of the connectors, I was in fact going to insist on them giving me the old unit, seeing as its not being replaced under warranty or with any form of goodwill payment. I doubt there is any justification for them refusing.

For what it's worth, it wouldn't hurt to send a communication to Skoda UK as I was under the impression the ABS failures on the Teves MK60 and the G201's are acknowledged by SKODA as faulty parts and were being replaced either with 100% goodwill offer or at least some recompense. Correct me if I'm wrong. My Scout is under investigation at the moment for similar ESP light "gremlins"

Many thanks to fellow Briskoda member Aston bodger for running a VCDS scan for me this evening. Here is the scan result and the details of the 2 fault codes: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Monday,16,June,2014,19:17:29:04575 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64) Data version: 20140212 Chassis Type: 1Z (1K0) Scan: 01 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 25 42 44 46 52 56 62 72 76 VIN: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Mileage: 79880km/49635miles 01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000 03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 001004-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 000008-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 000009-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 000015-Airbags -- Status: OK 000016-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 000017-Instruments -- Status: OK 000019-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 001022-AWD -- Status: Cannot be reached 110025-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 000042-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 000044-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 000046-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 000052-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 000056-Radio -- Status: OK 000062-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 000072-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 000076-Park Assist -- Status: OK 0000 here are the 2 fault code details: Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-614-517-MK60-A.lbl Part No SW: 1K0 614 517 AD HW: 1K0 614 517 AD Component: ESP 4MOTION MK60-AT 0102 Revision: 00H14001 Coding: 0023170 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 69D2044F40683D562C9-803C1 Fault Found: 01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492) 004 - No Signal/Communication --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V3.clb Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 L H W: 1K0 907 951 Component: J533 Gateway H07 0052 Revision: H07 01 Serial number: 170507F2001476 Coding: E9827F0E0002022303 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000 VCID: 3064A92BA3328C9E2B7-80651 Fault Found: 01324 - Control Module for All Wheel Drive (J492) 004 - No Signal/Communication Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100100 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Reset counter: 217 Mileage: 79844 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 15:55:43 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am now uncertain as to the actual problem part as the fault code 03 ABS list the infamous ABS Teves MK60 part which I originally thought may be the problem, having read the substantial history on Briskoda but may or may not be at fault. Haldex 4X4 Control Module or ABS Teves MK60........or worse case both!!! If anyone would like to comment on their conclusions regarding these codes, bearing in mind the diagnosis of the Skoda Tech at the garage is they are 99.9% certain its the 4X4 Control Module that is faulty and is to be replaced all in at £1005.24, please add to this post. I am just awaiting the dreaded phone call now to book it in to be sorted :no:

You are right and I'm becoming less and less confident with the diagnosis. Its a bit like going to hospital with a bad leg and them saying we think its broken and we need to stick you in plaster for 6 weeks, without taking x-rays. I am waiting for 2 Briskoda members to get back to me regarding one of them carrying out a VCDS scan for fault codes, and hopefully I can get this done before I get a call from the Skoda dealer to book it in. If not I guess I will ask the Skoda dealer if they can carry out the scan and not charge me as a good will thing, seeing as I bought the car from them and had all my servicing/MOT's done there.

I recently brought my grill back to life along with all the other external body trim, bumpers and roof rails with Autoglym Bumper and Trim Gel. You will need to use a small paintbrush and apply sparingly as the gel goes a long way, but it looks like new after I finished.