haventaclue

Replacement gearbox in and everything working,Jesus,what a job,I haven't pulled spanners like that in years.............

Yippee,now when I select first,I get reverse :swear:

No can do.I had planned on servicing her tomorrow evening and was going to change the gear oil as well to see if it will help with the grinding when changing into 3rd,didn't do it everytime.But since I lost 2nd,it shifts no bother at all

Here we go again with this auld 02 19TDI Elegance. As the title says no 2nd gear.Driving to Galway yesterday,just out of Sligo,87 miles down the road,tried to shift into 2nd,no go.As my ever patient wife had hospital appointment,we continued on,hoping it might just be a glitch. Anyway,250 miles later,still no 2nd. What I have done,reset the cables and rattled the shift arm around the place while she who must be obeyed,applied pressure with gear stick. I have looked around the forum and google,no one seems to have the exact problem,though I did find plenty where the shift was sticky,I had that as well with 3rd. So I'm guessing,as all other gears select,not the clutch.So am I right in thinking replacement gear box,250K+ on the clock. Apart from the gallon of petrol and a match,all advice and suggestions appreciated.

I had a bit of bother trying to get a copy and paste job done.Finally worked something out,no idea what :S But it's up,so hopefully someone will be able to give 's an idea what to do.All advice appreciated. Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl Part No: 6N0 909 901 Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001 Coding: 00006 Shop #: WSC 31480 VCID: 70E5BB353046C7A19FB-513C 10 Faults Found: 01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent 01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 00462 - Control Module for Seat Memory; Rear (J522) 49-00 - No Communications 01304 - Radio 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) 49-00 - No Communications 01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 00463 - Control Module for Digital Sound Package (J525) 49-00 - No Communications Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1U0-920-xxx-17.lbl Part No: 1U0 920 911 F Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V04 Coding: 23412 Shop #: WSC 31480 VCID: 3261713DFECAB5B1A9F-515A TMBBP21U022572663 SKZ7Z0A1081204 Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl Part No: 1C0 959 799 B Component: 3Y Komfortgerát HLO 0003 Coding: 00259 Shop #: WSC 31480 VCID: 36694D2D12A2A991857-4B18 Subsystem 1 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t Fahr. antwortet nicht Subsystem 2 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t Beif. antwortet nicht Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1U0959811D Component: HL antwortet nicht Subsystem 4 - Part No: Steuerger Component: t HR antwortet nicht 6 Faults Found: 01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 37-00 - Faulty 01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386) 49-00 - No Communications 01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533) 49-00 - No Communications 01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) 49-00 - No Communications 01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) 49-00 - No Communications 01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389) 49-00 - No Communications 5 Faults Found: 01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent 01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent 00462 - Control Module for Seat Memory; Rear (J522) 49-00 - No Communications 01304 - Radio 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.lbl Part No: 1U0 035 161 D Component: Radio GRO 0001 Coding: 00407 Shop #: WSC 31480 VCID: 2A51695DD61AFD7111F-4B18 2 Faults Found: 01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285) 49-00 - No Communications 01336 - Company Data Bus for Comfort System 37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

Evening folks, I have been scouring the forum trying to get these niggling problems sorted,changed switch panel,CCM,window regulate control and locks. Anyway to cut a long story short,I contacted lwalker whose name appears on the VCDS owners and being the gentleman that he is,he agreed to run the program on my auld 02 Mk1.Thank you lwalker,you are a scholar and a gentleman. :thumbup: It was late and I had a bit to go so we couldn't work through it. So I'm uploading hoping someone will explain it to me and tell me what I have to change,replace,apart from "The Green Lady" herself. Log-NOEL-TMBBP21U022572663-401330km-249374mi.txt

Well sneaked passed the NCT,thanks to a strategically placed switch and some fast foot work.And the CCM didn't swap,need to get her coded. So anyone near good auld Donegal got one of those thingymajigs that does the recoding without going to the local highway man

Well here we go,I bought,not going to be here for the test,but hey,it's only a turn up and show fail.Here's hoping.

I have reached the conclusion that it is the CCM. There is one on fleece bay with exact part number,plus all of the smaller letters and numbers are the same,but it is for a MK4 Golf. I know Octavia and Golf are cousins,but will this work? All advice gratefully received.Up for NCT tomorrow night and I know she's going to fail,again.

Thanks for the reply.That's out the window then. Talking of windows,I gave up and took the auld jaloppy to a garage.The guy ran a diagnostics,and tells me there is only 5v+ on the red/yellow wire,where there should be 12v+. But as he was trying to sort the brakes he didn't have the time to work on it as I need the car at 4am tomorrow morning.Next week,or I may go for a bypass via a couple of relays. Non operative drivers door window is an NCT fail.Unless I leg it out of the test center just before the inspector gets in,disconnect,reconnect the earth cable,then I have a ten minute window in which the window works

Starting new topic.Out of curiosity. I have a sneaking suspicion that it is the CCM that has given up the ghost.Going on the computer hook up Wednesday. If I buy a two socket VW/Seat/Skoda CCM with a different part number,can't find one with the exact number,can it be coded to my Octavia?Even if the plugs are not exactly in the same position as on the existing one?

Thanks for the suggestion.Not ten minutes ago.Was away for a couple of days. I also checked for power at the lock connection,no power.No continuity when the button is pressed,so I have to assume it's relays or the convenience control unit. I do have power on four points in the plug for the window/central locking control multi switch. Anyway,I have given up,taking to a guy on Wednesday morning.

Will give that a go,if I can read the number.Cheers.

So I pulled the loom from the door.Found two more corroded wires,a brown/red and a brown/yellow.Did a make do job for testing purposes.Checked the continuity on the rest of them,so I have come to the conclusion that I need to get the replacement module coded. d

Just been checking wires in the plug to the window module/motor.I have found a black wire with a corroded end,so that's one problem.Next up is the 5v+ in this black wire.Now,and I'm open to correction here,black is earth/ground/negative,and shouldn't have any voltage in it,should it?

Thanks for the reply. I have just replaced the motor for the drivers door window as there were three pins rotted in the original one.But this was happening with the original one insittu. What did you do? Replace or get it coded to your car?Do I need to get the replacement coded to my Octavia? Secondhand motor/module used as replacement.

02 Elegance electric windows,center locking switch does not work. I have read the threads on the forum and most state faulty switch.I checked the plug and power to all holes on one side of plug,so assumed new switch needed,ordered and fitted.Worked.Switched off car,twenty minutes later,no work. The switches on all doors operate the windows on their respective sides.Central locks don't operate off the fob except rear near side and boot,but I suspect micro switches in the locks.Also the fuel cap will not open when the button is pressed inside. Any thoughts please and as always very much appreciated.

"240,000 miles on this,new tensioner on the way.Had a friend weld it 'till it gets here.Might have a look at crank pulley.Thanks for the input.

It's not the tensioner that is broken,I wish.The belt functions perfectly,so I try and avoid heavy loads,like Air Con.Thank you for the response,I have uploaded two pics of where it broke.

Ok it's been awhile since I took my auld Elegance swimming,she's still going ,had great help from here. I have searched the forum but nothing comes up for my problem. My first question, What is the purpose of the damper/shock absorber on the alternator/v ribbed belt? Second question, What would cause the bracket/bolt hole on the engine to break? It is the bolt that the damper bolts to at the top of the block. Third question, What would/will happen if I continue to to drive without the damper attached? It broke a couple of days ago,as far as I know.The pulley on the alternator is not seized,I checked.But I will say this is not the first time I have replaced the tensioner.Last year the damper wore the center out of the damper,unless that weakened the bolt hole? I am considering taking the car to an aluminum welder at the weekend as I don't fancy stripping out everything to replace the big bracket.By the look of it timing belt,alternator,fuel pump and everything to access them would need to come off. Any and all advice appreciated.

I finally bit the bullet and changed the regulator motor from breakers,as mentioned above,only driver window opens,and then only intermittently,others will open with their own switches and central locking does not work,looks like I will need a recoding,part number is the same,well those numbers that I can read are. I was considering attempting to repair pins on one I removed,time I have plenty of,but looking at the circuit board there doesn't seem to be a way of removing board and pins from the cover without butchering it,or has anyone tried and succeeded at this? I should have taken advice of friends after I took her swimming last year and offloaded her on someone when I got all the lights on the dash out ,but I wouldn't like it done to me,so she gets driven until the rust eats her heart out. :S

This was a great help when mine dead locked,hammer ect. failed.Though I didn't use a hacksaw,I observed where the cogwheel was from your pics and drilled there with a 13mm bit and used two screwdrivers to turn the cog,took a little time,but I got there.Thanks

Yes you can.IF you are VERY careful with a 4" grinder,but it is a real SOB job without the right tools. The only real tools you need is the bearing splitter, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-PCS-BEARING-SPLITTER-GEAR-PULLER-FLY-WHEEL-SEPARATOR-SET-WITH-BOX-TOOL-KIT-/271558705091 ,the small round one,and I use the vice to press it in,slowly,and the old bearing to finish it. I do not know the seller,the link is for illustration purposes only. These cut the work time in half. There are probably a dozen people who will contradict me,but it works for me

I have 100+ miles done,fuel consumption seems as normal,idle is just over the 900RPMs,no reduction in power that I noticed.But I did forget to mention I did get a 5,5mm drill bit into the fuel pump without loosening the pulley.Maybe that saved me,but I'll still get it checked for peace of mind.

Didn't loosen either pulley so figured neither pump nor cam moved.Have done quite a few miles since,no unusual rattles and fuel consumption seems to be the same. No force was used to put the belt on and all paint marks checked numerous times.Rotated drive the two times to TDC several times and each time the marks lined up.But to to be sure to be sure,I'll get the timing checked just for the fun of it.And at 220K there's not a lot of life left in her.