RichieXR2

Thanks for the replies everyone, just a wee update, I fitted TRW pads today and they have the rubber backing people talk about when they refer to genuine pads. Main thing is, the annoying rattle is gone and Mrs is happy!

Aye that makes sense I suppose, I think it’s a TRW caliper so makes sense to fit TRW pads. Grinding is away so presumably it was a bit of crap between the disc and dust shield.

Which front brake pads are folk using successfully? When I bought the car it had new front and rear discs and pads fitted (eicher front pads) which have always rattled. Took the car back and they basically fanny’d it up with some brake grease which worked for a while. This morning when braking in a car part I got a grinding noise like metal to metal of worn pads, the noise has went away after the initial braking however imo it’s time to sort what the dealer couldn’t. The pads are in decent condition apart from the rattle and have only done about 5k miles. The pad rattle seems to be a fairly common issue across the mk7 platform so I’m looking for opinions on pads that have worked for others. I have the 340mm 1LG brakes if it helps. cheers

Went and spoke to the seller today and the car has to go in next weekend (earliest I could do) and they’ll look it over. I was toying with chucking a set of pads in it but I shouldn’t have to. thanks for the replies.

It sounds heavier than a dust cover in person tbh. I’m heading back up close to where I bought it so I’ll take it back in and let him hear it tomorrow.

Picked up my 3rd Vrs last weekend and overall I’m really happy with it, this is my first mk3 fwiw. When we picked the car up I heard a rattle which I put down to a front drop link and as I will be lowering the car I wasn’t fussed as I’ll change the links at the same time as the springs. I’ve had a lie under the car today and the links seem fine. The rattle happens when going over rough ground or potholes but not softer bumps or speed bumps. There is also a knock when stopping in reverse as if the pads are moving upwards in the carrier. All pads and discs are new, pads are cheap eicher ones from euro by the looks of it. Is this an issue anyone has heard of before? I’ve had the knock in reverse before but not the rattle over bumps. I’ll try and attach a video and pic of the pad in the carrier. IMG_8804.MOV

I have a picture of my mate somewhere with his entire door off the car and upside down trying to retrieve a bolt and remove the broken glass. I’m not saying you should do this but it worked 😂

I'm wondering if anyone knows if the diameters of the tdi and petrol vrs exhausts are the same? im trying to sort a standard cat back to return my car to standard but can't find a petrol exhaust. I'd assume they are same but don't want to buy it and it doesn't fit. Cheers Richie.

That was the plan for now Bradh but the Mrs hid my glue, must have been sniffing it too much . I pushed the plug back on and it got me home but didn't have time to change it so will get glue/ change it tomorrow.

That's what I wasn't thinking too but you just never know. I've managed to push the plug back on to the pins so should be safe to drive back home. I'll fit the other one tonight. thanks for the reply.

Good morning. On my way to work this morning I threw up a code, p1531 which is the cam adjuster valve open circuit, I had a look and the plug is actually snapped off with the male part still in the female side. The question is, is it safe to drive like this? I will try connecting it back together first but if I can't I'll really need the car to get home. I have a second hand sensor off an engine that had top end oil issues (cam bearings) so may try swapping that in if there's no way particles could be blocking the valve.

I've broken cars before (had a big yard) and unless they are something special like vrs, gti, sti etc I wouldn't bother again as you end up with all the crap bits no one wants. Having said that some common cars break really well. Advertise honestly and take what you can get.

Anything is possible however I'd think you'd be FAR easier selling your car and buying something with a dsg already fitted.

I'm going stage 3 fairly soon and have 110k currently however I have fitted a load of new parts and the car is well looked after. I have a brand new k04 and injectors, all pipework will be new also. I'd have no issues at all going for a map with your mileage as long as the car is looked after and you follow any advice given by your chosen mapper.

Looking forward to this, subscribed.

You could get zeniths in 18" as an option, I have them too

Got 4 new rainsport 3's a couple of weeks ago and they are fantastic however I did have vredstein ultrac vorti on the front which aren't suited to a Scottish winter, even as mild as it's been. My last vrs had toyo t1r's and they were terrible considering how good the reviews seem to be.

I'm just s bit concerned as it's never really done it before or at least not as often. Car will be going for stage 2+ map in coming months so would hate to get down to r-tech and have some issue stop it getting mapped.

I'm looking for a bit of advice on the turbo chatter my car has developed. The car is a bwa, tfsi vrs 110k. It has started to flutter/chatter on lift off after I drive at light sustained throttle, started doing it in 1st but it did it in 4th tonight and was pretty loud. It has done it once or twice randomly in the past but it's started to get more frequent in the last few days. There are no codes and the diverter valve is a roughly 6 months old rev G. I've recently fitted a fmic and hpfp internals however it did make the noise before these mods. Has anyone else had this issue? The only thing I can think of is a failing D.V or possibly turbo.

Anyone know how many miles it is for a petrol? Think mine will be due soon.

Everything I've read/done in the past has said to start at the furthest away caliper/cylinder.

My apologies on bleeding order.

I was asking about the stat because you said one of the hose connections wasn't a 90 degree. Yes mate get the temp to max and blower off or on the lowest setting and get someone to hold the revs at 2.5k while you keep an eye on the coolant level and fans. The coolant may back up and come out of the expansion tank just keep it topped up/ on max and keep an eye on the level for 1/2 days after bleeding.

As long as the fluid level in the res didn't drop too much you will be ok just to bleed the 4 wheels and most likely the clutch. Caliper should be fine as long as you didn't nick the seal inside the caliper when putting the piston back in (unlikely). Just make sure the dust cover is seated into the piston properly. You need to bleed the brakes from the furthest away from the master cylinder so RL,RR,FL,FR. I believe the dealers pump through 250ml through each caliper and 150ml the clutch.

No, that means the stat hasn't opened yet. To bleed you need to set the cabin heater to the hottest temp and rev the car at 2.5k until the fans come on, this can take quite a while but once a the fans come on you'll feel the lower hose hot. Obviously you need to keep an eye on the temp and you don't want it going much more than 90 I take it the stat was the correct one?