ifbravadoasks

My radiator has failed as well as my emissions light on (diagnostics done) Glow plug fault cylinder 1 Hence my setback in testing air filters. new radiator is ordered.

here is my receipt from when it was done...

Hi my apologies in being late, having some issues. but i'd like to reply to this those figures are low because the intake is collapsing at that point(180)original intake is collapsing at this point, hence the need for more air.( and my desputable custom intake ) :-) the remap and hybrid was done by bedrock veedubs in motherwell who have a good reputation. My radiator has now failed and a glow plug issue hence a slight further setback in getting to the RR for testing

Taken from pistonheads forum " It would be worth posting this in the VAG subforum too, you will probably get some more in depth answers. If it's the 1.8L 20VT engine, I had the same in my Cupra R so I know it a bit. Off the top of my head, a few things that can cause overboosting: A bad remap overstretching the boost ability of the car A faulty wastegate actuator on the turbo causing it to stick shut and not vent boost pressure as the throttle closes Aftermarket dump valves that have too strong a resistance spring for the boost pressure of the engine, the pressure is insufficient to force them open, so boost pressure does not fall quickly enough on a closing throttle and the ECU registers and overboost. Poorly maintained dump valves can stick shut too, they need to be serviced rountinely with cleaning and lubricant Turbo intake pipe collapsing under boost, this causes an intake pressure spike which can be registered as an overboost. The TIP degrades and gets softer over time and becomes more prone to collapse under high pressure. Most Cupra R owners fitted the aftermarket Forge or Badger5 TIPs, which were much stiffer and more robust. While you are at it, look at all the pipework and tubes from the turbo system (there are loads on the 20VT engine) and check for holes, splits, blown-off hoses etc. Source : http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1085762

My apologies if you thought I was having a poke... I don't think I am quite near the 220 barrier, I did see the intake pipe collapsing on the RR, so in hind sight maybe I should have just changed the pipework. The purpose of my original post wasn't to run a filter results test but as I am going back to RR I will try to run both cone and mushroom, I think ill just stick to the cone filter. Ill attach my original RR result when intake was collapsing Thanks again for the input...St

ok, which part is flawed? in fact don't bother .As for preventing over boost.... As I always thought sticky vanes causes over boost on these if I am not mistaken?( and actuator length) And as my intake was collapsing the technician advised me on a better set up for air intake as it was causing the car to over boost when it collapsed under intake(his words) My standard intake box is in the bin as I am happy with my current set-up All I posted up was a simple changeover pics guide that I done, like it or don't I am really not fussed thanks anyway for your comments which ill take on board... St I will try to post results this week to see the difference in filters as It was reaching 180hp when collapsing under load and that was with a jetex panel filter and a mann standard filter too. Hopefully be reaching 200hp now (md345 stage 1 hybrid and remap by bedrock veedubs) I know mushrooms are not favoured And I am not getting into technical disputes either it was a simple solution as my cone was not delivered today At least the car breathes well for now So THANKS for the comments and ill look forward to the rolling road...

I appreciate your comments mushroom is un oiled As foam filters don't need oiled Yes I could have used pipe and couplers to use standard box although running a hybrid I personally don't think standard box and pd130 intake delivers enough air as I had it on diagnostic before changing and it should be drawing 800 micrograms of air and mine was only drawing 350 micrograms approx figures I may change mushroom for a cone filter as I ordered one as well but it's not here yes so mushroom went on first I will dyno it with each filter and see which is better, maybe I should have explained this in my post better but didn't..... And I ran the same dreadfull foam mushroom on my scoob sti for 2 yrs with no power loss or reported issues. And yes I could have used pd160 and upgraded panel filter with new pipes but this was my choice. Ill try to post up my figures after rolling road visit.

Im the same figures...

its common for temp senders to fail causing this starting problem, As for the codes they could be old ones still stored I'd check temp sender first

AS Skug says... I agree

Hi all, after attending Vag vs Ford day and going on the rolling road my standard air intake hose was collapsing under the hybrid turbo at full load So I sourced the proper parts individually to make my own pipes and filter set-up including a new cold air feed If anyone is interested in the parts and prices let me know and ill post them up All in I was probably around 100 quid and 3 hours labour I used 5mm gauge stainless tubing heavy gauge silicone couplers decent hose clips. British made Flexi cold feed with brackets Mushroom filter kept maf incorporated and also added and drilled to fit vacuum pipe from existing into filter. hopefully the pictures explain the process I also cleaned up engine cover with a touch of paint. This may not be every ones taste nor may you like the filter idea but it wasn't done for any performance gains it was purely done to maintain a steady flow of dense air into the intake without collapsing under the turbo pressure. probably small pics shown but clicking them should resize hopefully... Steve...

Hi all Steve here, it turned out a good day despite the weather and my air intake collapsing on rolling road! It was really good to meet the fellow Briskodians today. Anyway just a couple of pics I took of today feel free to add your own too ill get videos up later on

Good, ill be there early doors steve mk1 fabia vrs

You know you want to keep it or you wouldn't be asking on here... I'd say keep it and stay away from south korean cars personally.. happy motoring!!! ( in a skoda) lol

Skoda mechanics IMO are just as capable if not more trained than so called skoda/ Vw specialists who may have served there time with vw/skoda and then moved on and opened their own garage, yes they charge slightly less( specialists) but Imo skoda mechanics have all the latest software and training possible but it all comes down to personal preference and what you are willing to pay as Skoda are quite expensive. Personally I prefer to use a local mechanic(15yrs) only reason is iv'e owned 15 cars now and he has worked on them all without fail and slightly cheaper than main stealers nothing against specialists as I know a few are great at what they do, every one to their own...

Hi all , Steve here I've just recently joined up, big Audi fan( 15yrs on quattros )just recently moved over to Skoda... As we have a small enough community I would like to know where in Scotland are people from and what car they are running It will help others know when we see another furby etc... a lot of you may already know each other but as I'm new and I am sure there are others interested too then list away: I will start off Steve 07 Mk1 fabia vrs black Hillington Glasgow southside glasgow Hybrid turbo and remap Any objections feel free to ad/ contribute ..

Anyone? cheers

Thanks for the reply, iv'e only just joined today so still getting up to speed.

maybe I am not reading the posts right but where was Svag held today? was it falkirk cheers ...Steve nice pictures, Especially like the 07 Se vrs..

im jan 07 on a 56

i'd check bottom ball joints usually that on mine when it clunks or I have also had loose pads before when I changed them over without shims I'd also check the pads for movement as worn calipers can cause this too... if there is movement sometimes a strip, coppa slip and clean does the job. good luck

Hi Dougie, any spaces left? I'd like to come along for the rolling road

As a general rule for me I change my timing belt every 60 thou miles which is around 96 thou kilometres or every 4 years whichever comes first. but thats just me, after all it is the main drive belt. on average I pay £220 to get it done for me and always change waterpump when doing so too.

sounds like sticking vanes or a boost leak to me. is it going into limp mode? take a read of this page, yes it for a golf but good info here http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/50753-sticking-vnt-mechanism/