echase

Don’t forget that leaking doors aren’t the only cause of soggy carpets. Leaking rear washer pipes and leaf clogged drains in the fresh air inlet (at back of bonnet) can cause this too, as reported in other posts.

I have had wet carpets many times. I have never had mould though as long as I used a wet and dry vac to suck out as much water as possible. Indeed the carpets are nice and clean now having been 'washed' so many times in this way.

Thanks for explanation. I used to live in SE Asia and cars there have similar systems but the compressor is bigger and you sure notice the engine slow down when the compressor engages.

Dear Maherto. I also tried the add voltage trick and it all worked but I was advised by someone on this site (search for 5 volt, 12 volt and echase) that it’s meant to run at 5V max and that 12V may damage it. It does not light a bulb because it’s just signal level current. And/or it will not be switched on if you have a sensor fault. Note that you are bypassing some of the safety sensors like overpressure switch by doing this so beware and only run it for short periods. I used cigarette lighter mobile phone charger to get the 5V. I changed the temp sensor later and all is well, see my post above. I never quite got to the bottom of whether it’s 5V for on and 0V for off, or a graded 0-5V signal giving variable output for the compressor based on swash plate position. Also does anyone know whether, if you set the temperature control to midway, does it mix hot air with cold or does it alter the swash plate to get less cooling, with less hp into compressor, thus saving energy?

I don

Sorry wrong post

Not quite clear where to put the half cork. I have put mine 6" in front of the greyish plastic vertical support strut. It's inside the top hat and underneath 2 diagonal plastic struts that slope down from above. Photo (double click on it) taken from left vent shows the top hat to right of cork and one of these sloping plastic struts above it. Is this the right place? When pulling out the vents 4 of the spring clips detached from the vent and one fell inside. Maybe I had got the credit cards below the top clips rather than above them. Took me 3 hours of dismantling the central fascia to find it. Not helped by Halfords selling me the wrong radio removal tool.

Good guide but I found that it is possible to quickly remove the ECU with minimal/no breakage. The ECU slides into a plastic frame/bracket; leave it in its frame. This frame has two V shaped lugs on it that slide into 2 slots in the car metal chassis. If you slide a medium sized flat screwdriver up and forwards between the frame and the chassis exactly in the middle, between the 2 lugs, which you can't yet see, it should release the plastic catch the locks the lugs into the slots. Then the frame can be slid up and backwards (or is it down and forwards?) 5mm to free it. If that does not work (probably because you missed the locking catch) just force the screwdriver in hard till the plastic lugs break. Although I did marginally break one lug I found I could slide the frame back into the slots and it locked solidly enough. Any chance someone could photograph these lugs and put photo here? Took me 45mins but I had previously changed my brake switch so knew how to do half the steps. Beats me how Skoda is so incompetent as to sell a sensor that is so unreliable. At its heart it just has a small Themistor, the little bead at the end. These can be bought for a few pence and are so simple they should never fail, as long as the wiring is waterproofed with varnish or similar. I suspect Skoda has not waterproofed them so the damp air corrodes the wires. I am a Reliability Engineer.

I share sam1973's experience. I have fixed the doors, the washer pipe and the under bonnet ventilation drain hole and still get saturated driver's side rear carpet, but not every time it rains badly. Where else can this water be coming from? Only thing I can think of is some leak around a front or rear window or a hole underneath that floods when going through a puddle. Any ideas?

To Pembo I use a Vax wet and dry cleaner to remove the water. Run over carpet for 5 - 10 minutes per footwell to remove as much water as possible from the underlay. Then do not put the loose carpets back. I am amazed that after a full year of intermittent flooding I have not have any smell of mould problems unless I put the rubber backed loose carpets back. Indeed the carpets are marvellously clean after all this washing despite never using shampoo! I tried a dehumidifier but the Vax is much better. To Andy Pandy. It’s the joint between the aluminium closure plate/carrier and the door that is the weakness. The aluminium is flexible so easily comes open between fixing bolts. There is a good picture of this on this site at http://www.fabia-vrs.com/door_carrier.html

There appear to be 2 different methods of doing this. There is the easy way - Fabia-vrs.com - Re-sealing Fabia Rear Ancillaries Carriers and the harder way which removes the carrier and replaces the foam seal with putty like stuff. Which is better? I have used both methods although with standard silicone and building putty rather than the recommended products.

I am reaching the end of my tether. I have all the symptoms of leaking door carriers, like wet carpet behind driver and a little in front foot well. BUT I have sealed the carriers and carefully checked they are sealed by blasting a hose all over the door and side windows with the card trims off. I did this with car tilted 10 degrees to the left (is that enough?) so drips fall from window to carrier. After the initial repair I did have a slight drip, but hardly enough to get 2-3 pints in foot well experienced after only one rainstorm. But I have sealed even that now. What else can cause this leakage other than carriers? I have checked for leaf blockage in fresh air intake under windscreen and also it can’t be washer pipe as that’s on passenger side. One clue might be that the carpet is a bit wet even up below the foot pedals which implies some is coming in through air intakes, edge of windscreen, a poor seal in engine bay/cabin bulkhead, rubber plug missing under floor or base of steering column. Any ideas? If water gets into front well can it run to the back? I always have more water in the back but wonder if the origin isn’t at the front.

To GinG. The washer pipe joins have probably come apart. Mine failed in 3 different places over time. The middle one will wet your rear passenger side carpet. Door seal Can someone explain what the official sealing stuff looks and feels like? I have some Arboseal, which is a building sealer in long strips of 1/8” diameter. Its feels much like plumber’s mait and does not harden over time. Problem is that in winter it’s quite viscous so if I remove the carrier again it is liable to bend the aluminum permanently. Also I put the sealer inside the line of the old Skoda sealer, rather than remove the Skoda stuff is the official way as recommended elsewhere on this site. Anyone know whether this might be the reason mine is apparently not sealing anymore?

Do we have a moderator who can set up this thread? One thing I notice missing is a list of common problems and how to fix them. Fortunately they are all her, e.g. leaking doors and washer pipe.

Anyone had a problem with the front doors? I sealed the rear offside door but still had a wet rear carpet with leaks which seemed to be coming through the rear half of the front door and dribbling down to the rear carpet. Front carpet was dry. But beware the Workshop Manual as it says you need to take out the front door lock before removing a front door carrier. This involved me 3 hours of extra work, by the time I had retrieved the lock retaining ring and refitted it, when in fact removing the lock is completely unnecessary. Removing the lock might make it easier to remove and reattach the inner door lock release rod and the cable to electric lock but it can just be done with lock in situ. My Fabia is X reg.

Is it worth having a thread dedicated to errors in the Workshop Manual? E.g. it says you need to take out the front door lock before removing a front door carrier. This involved me 3 hours of extra work, by the time I had retrieved the lock retaining ring and refitted it, when in fact removing the lock is completely unnecessary.

To pologaz If you pull out the plug and wire 5 volts (not 12V, although I did try it briefly, but was advised it may blow it up) e.g. from a mobile phone charger, across the 2 connector pins on the pump (either way round) it should override all the electronics and get the cool air flowing. That is unless you have no gas or a dead pump. If the fans then kick in chances are your fault is a small one, like the temperature sensor. Don’t run it for long though as you have overridden all the sensors this way and it could overheat or overpressure the gas if they is a more complex fault like a blocked pipe. This is just to help with diagnostics.

How long are fault codes kept in memory and are they erased if the battery is disconnected? I fear I have lost them because the fault has not reoccurred for 2-3 months and I briefly had the battery out recently. I have an aircon fault and jury rigged the electrics to get around it. After disconnecting the jury rig I took the car to the garage to get the codes read and they found no fault codes at all. Stupidly I had not run the aircon again since removing the jury rig so, if the fault code had been lost, it was not refreshed by running the aircon.

By measuring the torque to undo the bolts I found the undo torques to be 45-55 ft lb on all the larger bolts and 10 ft lb on the small (10mm head) ones.

Can

Maybe supergluing the bushes back was not such a bad idea of mine, as a Skoda parts dept now tells me that these bushes were glued to the arb on the original arb design. But superglue may not last long as the original glue was

Today's price is £50.88 plus VAT fro the modified arb.

What is iirc?

What do you mean by the console? Mine makes the noise on every single bump.

Mine is just like these photos. My collars aren’t that bad but do need replacement because I split one when trying to bang it back into place. Is there any way of changing the collars apart from changing the whole arb? And can the arb be slid out after removing its rubber mounts without major dismantling of the suspension? How much is an arb for 1.4mpi Fabia?