LJ_Matt

I checked the loads earlier and the abs/fuel pump feed that went is drawing about 7 amps whereas the feed I tapped into last night draws 31 amps on tickover so it's too close to leave in my opinion. Have linked it back up for now but I don't need to drive it anywhere soon anyway as have use of the wife's car and my mmotorbike so guess I'll get a replacement pronto and hope it doesn't pop again.....

Yes it's a 50 amp fuse and leaving it linked to another 50 amp supply is not a safe option!!! (I'm an electrician so trust me on that one) I'd guess the load put on it by the ABS activation was enough to heat the link up and a second burst so soon after was enough to kill it. Thing is, what happens if you're on a track day???

Hi all, haven't needed to post here for a while but hopefully someone can shed some light on this. Been thinking the brake pedal was pretty soft lately so after a bit of research earlier I decided to try the old "find a quiet road and jam the brakes on" trick (Someone else had suggested this helped firm up the pedal). Well silly me went and did it twice in quick succession and then the engine stalled and wouldn't start again! I could tell the fuel pump wasn't priming so guessed a fuse was gone somewhere, after much searching and a walk home to get the laptop to vag-com scan I discovered the fuse link below had blown itself apart. Luckily I had a socket set onboard so decided to risk the adjacent one and link them together, which got me home though I won't be driving it till I can replace it now.... So has anyone else experienced this and is it a dealer only thing (not open till flipping tuesday now!) or can I pick one up in my local helfrauds on monday? Thanks for reading (if you've got this far) Matt

Sounds exactly the same as the conversation I had with an indian sounding man...They are a shower of brown stuff, all fine and dandy on the website but awful to deal with and they flatly refused to discuss doing anything with the price when my renewal came up so I voted with my feet and found a much cheaper quote elsewhere!

Blimey I've started a right mystery hunt Wasn't intended as a bash at the moderators, just thought some of the "PC crowd" (and that's my opinion only that they are quite strong on here!) had complained and got it removed. Be interested to see if it can be restored....

Sounds feasible although an "interesting" one to lose given the subject matter

As title, just wondering where the thread went? Not another example of the pc crowd's mod hammer coming down on a few heated comments was it...... Only posting cos I'm curious as it's not even available to view as locked or any message about deleted etc and only realised it was gone due to the lollage link in the off topic forum.

Second verse, same as the first......:thumbdwn: Absolutely disgusting that mosely had the nerve to be publicly backing any candidate, especially one who's clearly not going to be impartial when he's got ferrari stamped all the way through him like a stick of rock! Looks like a whitewash to me and he's managed to step down while controlling exactly who's going to take over ensuring that nothing will change. FOTA should've gone ahead and setup the rival series, especially now bernie's saying F1 doesn't need a british grand prix cos none of the tracks want to lose money paying his extortionate fees Definately Ferrari International Assistance (again)

BE VERY WARY OF ONLINE "UNLOCKING" SOLUTIONS!!!! This phone is a complete pig to do - I have the slide version (but essentially the same) and every site I found that "claimed" to be able to unlock it actually couldn't....:thumbdwn: (Actually had to use paypal's dispute thing for a refund from one lot that made out they'd provide the code only to email a load of junk links instead ) In the end I had to pay orange £25 ish and provide them with the imei etc so they'd send me the code. Even places like phonefunshop (which I've used in the past with lots of success) couldn't do it unless I was prepared to send it to them and none of the shops local to me would touch it either. Another note though, a well known high street shop with car in the title don't sell locked phones so you could just buy the phone from them on the cheapest payg deal and ditch the sim card - I've done this and also had the unlocked phones status confirmed by the sales staff

Not sure about vcds as haven't used it but the info I used is on this site - Disabling airbags for mods/maintenance - TDIClub Forums The fault codes I got were as below: Address 15: Airbags Control Module Part Number: 1C0 909 601 Component and/or Version: 31 AIRBAG VW51 0008 Software Coding: 13105 Work Shop Code: WSC ***** 2 Faults Found: 00589 - Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131) 33-00 - Resistance too Low 01280 - Airbag; Passenger Side; Disabled 35-00 - - The second code is expected and triggers the airbag dash light on the clocks to flash about 6 times then it "should" go out; however because of the first code (which is the same as if you just unplug the airbag) then you get a permanent light on straight after which then requires you to re-enable the airbag before it can be cleared with vag-com. My local dealer claimed there were no firmware updates or issues with the controller, personally I think they're full of the brown smelly stuff and just didn't want to admit there could be a problem instead just quoting the "our proceedure involves more than just the software" and also claiming that "despite what everyone says about vag-com being the same, our tools do different things" - again, being of a technical mind I say that's also rubbish! :thumbdwn: (If their fix involves a wiring mod then clearly it's got feck all to do with the ecu as there'd be no point in doing both) Also the resistance too low fault still occurs with the resistor plugged in and the software disable. I'd be interested to know if anyone with the same revision controller as me could try the software disable and report back if it works for them.

You obviously had more luck than me then as my airbag ECU definately has a firmware bug which causes the second error code, thus meaning that a software solution alone is not possible.

Well I'd say the petrol vRS is a great daily drive but be prepared to get rubbish mpg if driven enthusiasticly on twisty roads (I barely average 29 to 30mpg) and you'll get royally screwed for tax with the current bunch of thieves in westminster. Fantastic car though and very practical - just wish I could afford and justify a remap, guess I'll have to settle for my bike when I want a bit more performance than the car can give me! Oh and you'll get stung at the pumps also as I find anything less than sainsburys super is false economy as it returns less miles to the tank.

What a crock of **** greenlight must be then if they won't insure fabia or octavia models - presumably that includes the base model variants too?! I can understand the fabia vrs being excluded as it does have a habit of tipping over (even more so a remapped one as more likely to be pushed over the limits of the standard chassis) but the octavia is the most stable planted car I've ever owned. Try elsewhere me thinks.....:thumbdwn:

I had to do this recently and my dealer claimed the airbag ECU would require replacement to fit the switch so wasn't an option. In the end I opted for unplugging the airbag and fitting a 5 watt 4.7 Ohm resistor in the loom instead - no faults logged and the system all stays healthy. This involves nothing more than removing the glove box (5 torx T20 screws and mind the interior light connection) then unplugging the yellow 2 wire connector going into the air bag module above the glove box hole - DO THIS WITH THE IGNITION OFF AND KEY REMOVED AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!! Then just insert the resistor in the free plug terminals, tape up securely and replace the glove box - you should find when you switch on the ignition all will be healthy (A fault WILL be logged if this connection is broken while the ignition is on, I had to clear this very code on my brother in laws cupra r after he was messing around looking for a loose connection) One point to note is that technically speaking you should have a sticker on the dashboard to warn of this - my insurance company (swift cover) told me that there was no issue with it being disabled when a child was in the front (as "most" cars have a disable switch anyway); however for an adult to be there would render the insurance invalid with it disabled so please do check with your insurer first!!! It can be disabled with vag com but then you get a fault light up as there's a firmware bug somewhere! There are two fault codes, one to say disabled (correct, just makes the light flash 6 times), while the other says resistance too low (faulty firmware!) - the second code is the one you will get if the ignition is turned on while the airbag is disconnected without a resistor fitted. Now little'ns in the back again forward facing but I keep a T20 torx bit and the resistor with some insulation tape in the glove box so it can be disabled in 5 mins at the side of the road (for when she decides to throw up in the back for example.....) I did post a thread in the diagnostics forum at the time but got no replies. Also agree with Cheezemonkai's comments on not trusting just a software solution on its own.

I got a set of OEM replacements from GSF a while back for about £220 delivered (next day too) - fitted with some help fairly easy, rears need wind back tool and fiddly due to hand brake mech. All ok for several k miles except the dreaded mooing when reversing but not bothered enough to strip and copper grease etc. hope this helps.

Quote "I always put the handbrake on carefully (with button pushed in rather than yanking it up and grinding the ratchet) so it's not worn?" I suspect that's your problem - I was always taught to use the ratchet as it's designed to ensure proper locking of the position! I believe there have been cases of handbrake failure (coming off after and rolling away) due to your exact actions but I'm sure someone else will correct me....

I too can confirm that 140mph feels fecking fast and I'd imagine it would take a long time to brake down to, say, 40mph if one were to try it on an empty stretch of public road..... :eek: Not that I'd condone doing such things of course, your honour. Oh and the badger thing doesn't even bear thinking about :(

I concur with the above poster. I've had several T1R's on mine and they are returning around 12k on regular twisty back lanes with plenty of right boot! All in a good tyre IMHO.

I have a problem with my daughter being travel sick on a fairly regular basis when in the back of my car. She's fine in the front of SWMBO's car (old corsa so no airbags and the rear seats are a bad shape so the seat doesn't fit correctly in the back anyway). After another load this morning I rang my local dealer to enquire about getting the keyswitch retrofitted - turns out this uses a different module so is totally cost prohibitive (at circa £500 with switch, loom, light and fitting etc) so I asked about just having it disabled. Seems they haven't got an airbag trained tech at present so I did some research about doing it via vag com with a mate and found out about the adaption codes. Channel 1 is the passenger side and changing the value to 1 disables it, causing the dash light to come on for 4 seconds (as normal) then flash 6 times (as expected); however it then stays on permanantly. If re-enabled and cleared it's all fine again. The codes are as below: 2 Faults Found: 00589 - Airbag Igniter 1; Passenger Side (N131) 33-00 - Resistance too Low 01280 - Airbag; Passenger Side; Disabled 35-00 - - What I don't get is why I get the resistance too low fault (which is clearly why the light stays on) as the airbag module is still connected! (I did try fitting a 4.7Ohm resistor on the loom connector as suggested elsewhere but still got the same although if it's enabled with the resistor all is fine so I know it was making the circuit - I'd prefer to know the unit was disconnected if I do this anyway as I believe the dealer solution involves a resistor also.) Anyone come across this and fixed it? I accept that if I do this myself (still waiting on another dealer's cost/availability) there could be issues and also it's not recommended having them in the front but can't deal with clearing up sick every journey!

I've just fitted another set of T1-R's on my vrs (now had 11 in total, due to a puncture), and I got 11800 miles out of the last fronts and nearly double that out of the rears (only had to change on of them early due to the puncture but the other was the original from the first set of 4) so I'd say you either have a very tyre punishing style of driving, your car's got a setup problem of you had a duff batch to only get 5k out of the fronts.:confused: Also had Kumho's on both my old escort and SWMBO's corsa and they were utter rubbish - always tramlining and horrible grip so much so I had the escort into the garage several times to check the suspension over as it was pretty near dangerous to drive on. Then I fitted a set of Yokohama A539's (I think) and it was like a new car. I'd have fitted them to the vrs if they had the size and were better recommended than the toyo's. And believe me when I say I drive my vrs like it was meant to be driven - HARD!!! Just my two penneth worth...

Yup, very pleased those barstewards hav etaken the hammering they so deserve :thumbup:. Such a farce that we have a prime minister who nobody voted in :eek: and who won't f**k off when it's clear nobody wants him - I thought I hated Blair until this w*nker took over! Still makes my blood boil the number of idiots who don't vote - should be compulsory with a "none of the above" option for those who really can't choose whoch colour should be screwing them over each month financially....

Many thanks, I'll give that a try when I can get a lead connected again.

Theresias, I'm not really sure what you are looking for from the full scan but all I have access to at the moment is an old scan from last year with an ebay cable (which I no longer have); however it will show you the modules in question. I'm not a registered vag-com owner/user which is why I am posting here instead of contacting Ross -Tech and am only hoping for some friendly advice on whether the attempted communication to the non existant radio can be disabled with coding or adaptation of the two modules listed - if so I would hope to get someone local to me with the necessary leads etc to code it out. (I do know somebody with a cable but don't see them very often so scans are few and far between) Address 17 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 1U0 920 911 C Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V10 Coding: 19412 Shop #: WSC ***** TMBER******** SKZ***** 1 Fault Found: 01304 - Radio 49-00 - No Communications Address 19 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 6N0 909 901 Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001 Coding: 00006 Shop #: WSC ***** 1 Fault Found: 01304 - Radio 49-00 - No Communications Again as stated in my first post, it's not a huge problem if it can't be done just that as I have read about people disabling things like the cd player if it's missing to avoid error codes I wondered if the radio module could be removed from the communication without avoiding scanning the two modules (as Phil suggested)

I don't know how to and couldn't find anything in the coding for either module, hence asking the question here. Did try looking on the ross tech wiki but there doesn't seem to be much info there other than the usual stuff like throttle bodies etc. Would've thought it would be in the adaptation or something but haven't seen anything obvious.