djbarnat

Yes the FM implementation is not that good on the rcd330 but it is been worse on all the android units i have had (even after installing a decent amplified aerial) If FM is the main priority just go Bolero/Amunsden/columbus. Radio is not important to me either so I offline a huge stack of music onto spotify and just use that through Android auto (as mobile data soon gets consumed) Babs, I think another thing to consider, if you have an android phone, research your phones for stability/issues with Android Auto as some phones do not play nice. Phones that are closer to stock android like google nexus tend to play alot better.

Having gone from bolero to winCE to three different android units to rcd330 myself I would say take a look at the rcd330. It's a genuine vag radio just normally fitted in the Chinese market. You can pick them up below £170 and they look oem. It has BT, android auto (so nav is Google maps via connection to phone or if you are iPhone it's apple maps), apple carplay, fm radio, but I tend to get all my radio through tune in radio via Android auto. Once setup the Google assistant works really well in my experience so you can get directions, change music, answer texts etc with your voice. Personally I found too many annoying niggles and reliability issues with all the android units I had and I have gone through pretty much all the variants out there (mtcb, Sofia, most recently the 4gb ram px5) as I am a bit addicted to trying different head units. RCD330 does have its own issues which you would need to research to see if you are comfortable with. There is also an issue with it where if your car is an older model ( I seem to recall pre 2010) you have to get a Canbus gateway upgrade otherwise it can cause battery drain (so if you do decide to go for rcd330 you must check this) . I would seriously consider it though if you are changing. I have installed mine and VCDS post install scan shows no communication errors unlike when I have had android units installed. IMHO the android units do not have the Canbus stuff implemented properly and it's not good to have Canbus modules not talking correctly!

No i don't get any indication the bonnets open . Thanks Dilksie for taking the trouble to check this, much appreciated. I will reconnect and see how it goes, i have read on here that if you have a faulty switch it can set the alarm off so maybe that was why someone disconnected it. Hopefully that wont be the case. Thanks Wino for you input too.

Thanks Wino for the helpful response, I do appreciate it. I have attached better shots below. One side of the connector has a brown and brown/red mix wire. The other has a brown and Brown/green mix wire. Bonnet latch sensor sounds highly probable. I wonder now if the previous owner disconnected it due to alarm issues.

Ok jong123 , thanks for looking and letting me know that you don't know, Maybe someone else will ......

Hi I opened the bonnet to change my headlight bulbs today and noticed this electrical connector unplugged. Can anyone let me know what this is? It is right at the front of the engine bay just behind the bonnet release. I don't want to just go hooking it up before I know what it does as I guess it could have been disconnected for a reason. It's 2010 mk2 OCTY VRS cr170.

Hi All, My car -> 59 plate Octavia VRS CR170 Tdi. I have recently had my suspension changed to an aftermarket setup AP setup (which has improved handling and i am happy with). This may be as a result of me being more aware of the car since doing mods but i think my car may have developed a intermittent click sound when turning to full left and full right lock. To be clear, The is noise does not occur repeatedly when moving along (it's not a click, click, click like when a CV joint goes). It is just a single click sound that occurs just before i reach full left and and full right lock in a stationary position (my road is so narrow i don't have much option but to turn the wheel while stationary) and it is intermittent. I have checked for any movement in the springs (like when a spring is moving about in its top bearing). . There is no irregular movement in the springs, when turning the steering the springs rotate smoothly with no obvious staggered movement or sound coming directly from the suspension area when the click occurs. It sounds more like the click is coming from inside the back centre area of engine bay. I have checked to see if i can "feel the sound" in the suspension top mount and I cannot. I have researched the forum and i know there are a lot of threads like this but i couldn't find one that has the same specific symptoms. Most seem to deal with repetitive clicks while the car is in motion. A local indy has advised that the car is safe but i am more concerned about what may be on its way out. Perhaps this is normal for the model of car and i just haven't noticed it before. Does anyone else's mk2 OCTY do this? Would appreciate any advice/pointers on what this might be? Thanks very much.

Hi All, I have recently been on a bit an upgrade spree with My OCTY VRS (MK2 CR170 TDI). Last week I had an AP suspension kit fitted to my Octavia at a local Indy and despite being a “Value” suspension kit this has without doubt transformed the handling and massively reduced body roll. Cornering feels a lot more plated as a result and the car actually feels more comfortable than the stock suspension. Also at the weekend to complement the suspension I went to Shark in Mansfield and had a stage 1 put on which again has transformed the car it is now a lot smoother in power delivery and pulling stronger than before. I couldn't be happier with the outcome of these 2 mods in all honesty..........but Well , I have got a bit addicted to this now and I want to do more! I think I am enjoying handling mods more than anything to be honest so I am thinking a RARB may be where I want to go next. I know a lot of people on the forum have rated this as a good value mod with noticeable handling benefits. So my question is, given I already a stiffer suspension setup anyway am I really likely to see much improvement from fitting the RARB? Can anyone on the forum who had the a White line RARB fitted after having changed suspension (particularly if you have a B4 & Eibach or AP suspension kit) comment on the improvement please? Was it clearly noticeable or was the difference negligible? I am assuming you would feel the improvement of the RARB offers more with a stock suspension setup. So I am just wondering whether it is worth me forking out on one and if I will feel a noticeable benefit and a further reduction in body roll over and above what the up-rated suspension offers. Cheers Djb

This DS820 thread maybe? Despite the thread title it is not an android head unit it's Wince. While this unit has had a fair amount of praise i have owned it but subsequently replaced it with and android unit and i am a lot happier. It really depends what your feature and use requirements are though. This thread has discussion about other units than just the DS820.

No i don't have the stock sensor. This kit provides a sensor which basically sits in between the original loom and the switch. This old thread had a number of people reporting success in getting auto headlights to function using these kits so thought i would give it a go. Seems to work but not happy with this random side effect ! Will stick the original back in, hope it hasn't done any lasting damage.

So i got this aftermarket auto headlight switch through the post today and fitted it. (MK2 CR170 FL 2.0 TDI VRS) http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/rvc-kits/oem-1z0941431j-3kx-auto-headlight-switch-2/ It users a lightsensor that you install on the dash and the auto headlight function appears to be working fine. However since installing it i seem to have an issue where intermittently when locking and unlocking the car the brake lights, DRL's and instrument cluster will start a "light show" blinking repeatedly and then eventually stop. I have never seen them do this prior to installing the headlight switch. Any ideas what is causing this ? I have taken video of this to show what i mean. The "light show" starts at about 0:51 seconds into the video. Video Any help would be very much appreciated.

I have an Erisin android head unit in my 2011 MK2 FL Octy. I just bought a relay from halfords to get over this issue. The reverse wire power serves as a switch which then tells the relay to draw power from a positive that i took from the fuse box off a fuse tap. It does not like power directly from the reverse light - something to do with the canbus or so i am told. Works fine now took an hour to do - just lookup how a automotive relay works on google - lots of diagrams. I am not sure if this is the best way but it is working well enough for me.

Yes i have tried it but with limited success in my octy with my android head unit. The main issue it seems to have is losing internet connectivity while driving around. All requests sent via the dot have to go out via amazon and i suspect the maintenance of this connection (between dot and amazon) is continually checked/tested . It seems this connection must be constant for the dot to remain connected and as soon as it fails connection it attempts a reconnect cycle. This immediately interrupts your music once this happens and light on the dot turns to red. If you are just streaming spotify normally via bluetooth you dont get this issue as spotify (or what ever service you use to stream music) usually has a cache and does not require a constantly polled connection. As such any little blips in data connection do not effect the experience. If it worked better it would be nice as when used in conjunction with my android head unit with spotify installed and the use of the spotify connect feature, any song i select on the dot appears on my head unit, and in addition, i can then subsequently control the track on the screen or via voice commands to the dot. Nice when it works but really annoying when it fails. Instead i have settled on using the google voice feature of my headunit to control spotify playback. This allows me to say stuff like "play bob dylan" and it will immediately open spotify any play it. I haven't worked out how to skip tracks with it yet but i believe this is also possible. Note : if you intend to use the 3.5 mm jack rather than bluetooth you may find you also need a 3.5mm ground isolator otherwise you get a lot of noise i the signal (or at least this was the case in my experience, but perhaps i had a poor ground).

Quality, thank you!

Assuming you have an android phone I reckon this may be down to your cable. If you plug your phone into to your computer with the cable are you able to see it as a mass storage device and access the files on it ? I found that with certain cables i only get charging but no usb data connection. I think not all cables are born equal in terms of pin-outs.

Ok so i have the DS-820 installed for a week now and after some tinkering for me the mirror link is working in stable manner from my android phone. I have noticed some cables do not work. Basically i think some cables do not allow full USB transfer because the same cables that do not work with mirror link do not work with using my phone a USB storage device on my pc. There were some pre-requisites for successful setup 1. Enable USB debugging mode in developer options on the phone. 2. Enable "unknown sources" (so you can install an application called "drive mode" which the setup gives you a link to via QR code. 3. My phone must be unlocked at the point that i make the connection. 4. The phone must have sucessfull bluetooth pair for audio. As long as these are met my connection is stable even when the head unit switches to another screen (for example if i open a door and it switches to the door warning screen) it goes back to the mirror link with a simple press of the back button. No need to re-establish connection at any point. This makes using a spotify for music and google maps for nav a viable option. I travelled recently using google maps as my main nav and it was plenty fast enough. The audio announce audio announcements lowered the spotify volume just the right amount. The unit has quirks but it is a massive improvement over the bolero and i am very pleased. Another bonus is that the sound is miles better than the bolero. I think my only complaint is the radio reception but i am now using tune-in radio anyway. Next tinkering session will involve trying to replace sygic nav (which i don't like) with Igo Primo as my backup Nav if my phone is dead or loses signal.

Hi i have also been looking for a manual. Managed to find this for the ds611 which is basically the same platform. (same software, same screens etc...) not sure it will help you confirm outputs but it may be of some interest from a software point of view. DS611-compressed.pdf

Mike - thanks for the confirmation puts my mind at ease know this has been used before - much appreciated.

Hi all, First apologies if this has been already covered, i have searched the forum but i am still a bit unsure about this and i am hoping someone may be able to answer this for me. I am planning an install of an under floor sub (Kenwood KSC-SW11) in my Mk2 Vrs. It won't fit well under the drivers seat but it fits under the passenger seat like it was made for it. Now the supplied ground wire is fairly short so i am looking for a suitable ground point on the passenger side. i have taken off the side panel between the door and dash board passenger side. Would the bolt shown in the attached image (the one with the yellow paint) serve as a suitable ground)?

Hi All, I have searched for this using the search facility or anything on google so hoping some of the knowledgeable folk here might know the answer. I have a 2014 black edition octy estate with the black 18 turini alloys. I scuffed the near side front a while back and paid to repair. The missus took it out last week and has done the same wheel again. I dont want to keep forking out for alloy scuffs so was hoping to attempt some kind of temporary repair my self even if it is not perfect. I will get them properly done before the end of my pcp. Does any body know what paint I would need and can any one advise on a method? These are light scuffs around the rim of the alloy.

I don't have the steering wheel with buttons but I do have controls on the stalk. I put all my music on loop and if I keep clicking next it will go to the next media folder in the list. You can eventually get to the folder you want and if (for example) I press the next button 10 times in very quick succession it will register all the clicks and skip 10 tracks. Its a pain if you have a lot media I know but personally I am not sure I would want to be navigating folder structures while driving so I can kind of see why. Not that I am saying one shouldn't do so if that's what you want! I just don't think I could concentrate on driving at the same time.

I had a "boot buddy" for my old car. Was pretty good.