LeicsVrs

Pete you are correct! 5K0959704A

I thought I would write this post as it may help others who come across similar issues in the future. A day after I had cleaned my car, I locked it and noticed the little red light on the drivers door stayed illuminated upon locking the car. I tried all the doors and despite being locked, the rear passenger door opened. I noticed the red warning on the dash for a door open wasn’t illuminated and then tried the electric window, nothing worked. I thought, as I had just cleaned it out and had the rear door fully open, which is rare as no one normally sits in the back, perhaps I had stretched or broke the cables inside the black rubber sleeve. I removed the rubber, checked all the wires, all seemed fine. Disconnected the plug, sprayed some contact cleaner, and suddenly everything seemed to work again. This fix lasted a day or two. Then the same issue returned. Solid red alarm light, door not locking, no electrics on that door, no indication door was opened on dashboard. I then took the door card off, thinking it was a Dodgey cable somewhere. Spent an hour with my multimeter checking wires and plugs from the door pillar, to the big connector plug that goes to the window regulator motor. I could not find any issues with the wiring. Anyway, I worked out if I unplugged the door connector, waited a few seconds, plugged it back in, the door would lock/unlock once, then stop working. In addition Vcds was coming up with No Signal/communication, or sometimes not even reading anything for the rear right door unless I unplugged, reconnected the door and scanned quickly. So it was communicating for a few seconds when connected, but then losing connection once I either locked the car, or opened the door. I would get the red door open warning on the first open. Close the door, open it again and nothing. Stuff would work once, then stop! Strange. Having had an issue on my Mk1 where I replaced a window motor, with a faulty unit (crap part sent to me by a breaker), and this caused all sorts of central locking issues, I thought it was worth replacing the window regulator motor even though the window was fine. I knew the central locking goes through this motor unit, and has the door locking module attached. When I put a good unit on my Mk1, it fixed all the central locking issues. So replaced the window regulator motor yesterday, and everything is fixed. Door locks, unlocks, alarm arms, window goes up and down, all the auto functions work. So turns out, it must have been a failed or failure door module, on the window regulator motor. Interestingly, I replaced my current unit 1K0959703J on my 2008 with a newer unit from a 2012 1K0959703A. Same part number, different suffix at the end. I had read that it might need the J suffix on the end to work, but the replacement unit with an A Suffix worked straight away without coding. Albeit upon checking the coding, it is exactly the same as my old unit with code 0000144. So for me, a few questions answered: - It isn’t always a snapped / corroded wire or connector - The central locking system does still go through each window motor unit like the Mk1 - Replacing a window motor unit / door module didn’t need the same suffix on the part number at the end and no coding was required. It took me a few days to sort this issue, but got there in the end. I hope this write up helps someone else, as reading all the other articles on here gave me a good starting point on where to begin investigating. I’m sure as these mk2s age, there will be a fair few little issues like this arise for us all over time.

No saw toothing at the moment. The off centre steering wheel was the clue. Something at some point obviously upset the rear end...of the car.

Treated the Octavia to a four wheel alignment. Steering wheel was off centre and annoying me so £46 later had it sorted. Thought I'd post the results for general interest. It was done on the infamous Hunter system. Car is an 08 Elegance 1.9 tdi.

Unfortunately, you've got nothing unless you can prove who was driving. Don't waste your time reporting this to the police unless you know exactly who was driving or think the garage would give evidence against their own staff member that he/she took the car. These idiots could have ran someone over but unless it can be proved which one was the driver it's not going any where, regardless of what the footage shows.

Well this car has changed a little since I last saw it on its final day before it was replaced for a 1.7 Vauxhall Astra. Sad times. This was a Leics police vehicle, I knew I recognised the reg. Found this online... https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/humbersidepolicepics/8036823648/

Hello, My newly purchased octavia has a tow bar fitted which will be coming off. Annoyingly, when indicating, the car beeps as they normally do when a trailer is connected, but there is no trailer connected. The beep / alarm is coming from the boot though, as if there is a special speaker back there. Any ideas if this is normal and furthermore any tips on removing without causing electrical issues. Main mission is to get rid of the stupid beeping every time I indicate!

Luckily for me the pheasant didn't take out the fog light, just dislodged it so I needed to get my hand behind to clip it back in. I can imagine what the headache it would have caused if I had to replace to unit, bulb or do anything other than clipping it back on.

A pheasant challenged me to a game of Chicken at 60mph. He lost the game, but he did dislodge my fog light. I spent ages trying to remove the lower grill to gain access but had no joy. I got home and had another go using a cloth and screw driver and worked out a way of getting it off easily without causing damage. I filmed a tutorial in the hope it will save someone a headache or stop damage being caused by doing it wrong. Follow the link to youtube if you need to remove the lower grill corner panels to gain access to either the towing hook or fog light.

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Quick search shows it comes in Fabias not normally Octavias

It does. I think you've hit the nail on the head. I will get the head unit replaced for a Stream HU and see if this fixes things. Anyone know if the "Dance" HU is a lower spec unit?

The model is "Dance". I've gone through settings and there is no option re Aux. The rear washer does work, it was repaired in January, had a new motor according to an invoice I have.

I have recently swapped my 07 Elegance for an 07 vRS. The vRS has an aux input in the arm rest and Cd changer in the boot. The head unit in the vRS seems lower spec than in the elegance. When pressing "CD" it doesn't cycle between Cd changer and Aux, it just beeps and says NO CD. I have read the manual and pressed buttons for hours to no avail. I have come to the conclusion the škoda head unit I have currently isn't compatible with the cd changer and aux. This seems strange because why would they put the Cd changer in the boot if you can't use it? Unless previous keeper changed the head? Has anyone one else experienced this at all? I wonder if changing the head unit to the same one I had in my elegance would enable me to use the aux and cd changer?