dan4280

Thanks for the advice, I will investigate further. Having only a vague understanding of how camber is measured, should the rear camber be zero degrees?

So you are saying that due to the rear suspension design, even if I lowered the car it shouldn't impact camber? The plot may thicken. I needed a new rear axle at the same time as replacing suspension. The supplier at time provided a non vrs rear axle. They claimed the only difference was thickness of built in arb - as I intended to add an aftermarket one anyway I took them on their word....

No I don't have an additional rear arb. I have booked an alignment check so I'm hoping that would identify if the camber is indeed out.

Last year I lowered my 2003 VRS having my friendly mechanic install a v-maxx coilover set. Since then the rear handling is best described as "squirelly" - I mentioned it to mechanic last year who initially pointed out my near illegal rear tyres...... Long story short, I think I compensated for this poor setup until this years MOT when the same mechanic made reference to the rear end handling being less than confidence inspiring. Basically on uneven road surfaces (manholes even in the dry) the back end skips and jumps left/right. Initially he suggested replacing rear axle bushes which we did to no avail. Having decided to try and figure this out, I'm suspecting that lowering the ride height has thrown out the camber. Using a rudimentary approach of a spirit level, both the front and rear have negative camber but the rear is way more negative than the front. I guess this means that nowhere near enough of my rear tyres are actually in decent contact with the road hence the poor grip? Does this sound like I am on the right track? What is the best approach to remedy? Would it make sense to get an assessment of the alignment now and get a reading for the rears and order shims to try and bring the camber back the correct way? I was thinking I need to know how many degrees they are out and by the correct size shim such as these. It seems the most correction you can get is 2 degrees: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153618705388?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338343596&toolid=10001&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A153618705388%3BCjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvcmH0K1AzMZS45x9fzlDVMjF-YYjRtsHeF8I6NqJdK1KvTob6O6ARIhoCYTMQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAiAuOieBhAIEiwAgjCvcmH0K1AzMZS45x9fzlDVMjF-YYjRtsHeF8I6NqJdK1KvTob6O6ARIhoCYTMQAvD_BwE http://vi.vipr.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=280528999347&t=1505473742000&category=180399&seller=venommotorsport&excSoj=1&excTrk=1&lsite=3&ittenable=false&domain=ebay.co.uk&descgauge=1&cspheader=1&oneClk=2&secureDesc=0 What should the camber be on standard setup and is that what I should be aiming for on a lowered car? Thanks!

I hear you loud and clear! So that's what the notches are for!

That worked! I owe you a pint! So what do I need to do to ensure I don't end up in a similar position - is there a certain way of fitting the outer cable?

Thank you I will give that a try this weekend.

Sorted one side. Thought I had fixed the other rear and now have bigger problems. God I hate these locks....... Neither the inner or outer handle will open the door. I assumed failed lock mech so drilled open the casing and did the manual cog turn (even though the electrics still turn it). How do I open my door?!

After much faffing with a corroded drivers door control module and advice from here and elsewhere.....I think to get things fully operational I need a new module (I have 2) but importantly it needs coding to my car to work. Is there anyone in Cornwall with VAGCOM that could assist?

The doors open from the outside so they are unlocked. I guess its door cards off the rear to check cables and see how the child locks actually function. Perhaps naked doors is the best look for these cars......😩

I'm continuing to have fun with a driver's door module that was full of water. I have now noticed both rear doors will not open from the inside even after disabling the child locks. I'm wondering now if this could be related to the driver's door module. However, I must confess I thought the child locks and the little screw things were a mechanical system - are they in fact electronic? How does it actually work?

Thanks!

Aren't what's on the front as standard a coilover as the coil goes over the shock? This term has been vexing me!

Thanks. Sp it seems roll bars/braces are more effective than bushes. Taking on board your comments about cheap coilovers I came across this unadjustable set (I just want a mild lowering and fresh dampers and springs). Would you lump these in with the horror stories. Reading about the German company, they appear to have decent heritage. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/vogtland-club-lowering-suspension-kit-vog960073/

I've decided to spend some money to improve the handling of my vrs and trying to figure out the best "bang for buck." I was thinking of polybsuhung the front end but have heard a few opinions of them being creaky or crashy. Other thoughts have been on replacing springs and dampers and just replacing wishbones to get new rubber bushes. The front end feels a bit vague and my brother informs me the back end feels light. What's best initial spend on to feel an improvement? Polybushes or new shocks and springs?