dan4280

I'm also going to replace the sai valve aka combination valve as it seems this failing would likely be the cause of why the air pump is full of water.

So I have a failed secondary air pump that I started removing today. I disconnected the 2 air lines and a lot of water came out. I'm no expert, but water in an air pump probably isn't great. I don't think there are obvious splits on the hoses so I'm wondering how it got so full of water? Anyone know a good place for a cheap pump? Autodoc is quoting circa £140 and I don't trust the ebay ones as it when I put in my reg it says it won't fit!

I kicked this in the weeds but bit the bullet this weekend and replaced the rear shocks with the often recommended Konis. They have only been on a day or so but from initial test drive it seems a lot of my issues were rear shock related. Perhaps avoid vmaxx suspension....

I ended up going to a skoda main dealer parts desk. 2 bolts and one nut exactly as you described. The ball joint came supplied with a nut. No issues with access regarding sump or gearbox. Toughest bit was the corroded ball joint nut removal as you can't get a socket on them with drive shafts in place.

Thanks for this info. I will see if I can source the bolts. I still maintain they should provide them with a new control arm......

I need to replace both front control arms and I've opted to buy the ones with built in ball joints. For the other 2 points of contact, do I need new bolts as well? A friend had mentioned single use stretch bolts but I'm not sure how many per side I would need, if at all?

To be clear - you are suggesting a replacement axle as a remedy? There are no shims currently installed. It's been to a couple of mechanics/alignment garages, none of whom have offered a solution.

With some differing opinions here I am not much further forward! Are you suggesting the axle itself is to blame, i.e. it is not straight? I think I have been loathed to blame the suspension as the issues were from the off with the brand new suspension installed. Checking the brakes isn't a bad idea - but part of the issue is twitchiness on uneven road surfaces which I guess is not likely brake related.

It has Vmaxx suspension and at the time of fitting a new rear axle was fitted (I don't think it was a vrs specific axle but was told they are all the same......?!). Tyres are a firestone model all round and generally around 30 psi. The thing that is confusing me - if you can never put the rear toe out of alignment (other than bending the axle), why do companies make shims to correct alignment? I have found a company that specifically says lowering the car can affect toe! https://air-lift.co.uk/accessories/cambertoe-shims/volkswagen-golf-mk4-rear-alignment-shim-kit

My mk1 vrs has been lowered which seems to have thrown rear toe out of alignment. I have been experiencing a twitchy rear end 🙃 and just eaten through a pair of rear tyres in record time. I know the rear toe is not adjustable without the use of aftermarket shims between axle and hub. I just can't find any for the mk1 octavia. Any help appreciated.

To clarify the axle was brand new. Based on @phazed response, skipping is the best description when on an uneven surface. I wonder if raising the front would improve anything or if it is just a case of poor dampers/springs.

I have 205/50 Firestones on atm at 30 psi.

So this is the reading I just got. It appears the toe is out on the rear and not the camber. Could that account for a skittish back end?

Standard 17 inch spiders wheels and tyres. He set the ride height, which I felt was too low and I ended up adjusting the rear to the max height it would go which is still pretty low. There is no damping adjustment, it's set. I'm not sure he has any sophisticated alignment equipment. I'm off to kwik fit today to get an alleged free alignment report...

Thanks for the advice, I will investigate further. Having only a vague understanding of how camber is measured, should the rear camber be zero degrees?