dan4280

Yes it has passenger airbag in on position (in glove box). Pin 1 permanent live and pin 2 switched live. Pin 25 and 26 I understand are earth. I also replaced the battery as it was old and didnt have a great voltage hoping it would solve. It didn't so I am still suspicious of the earth. I used a pin on the lives and get a reading and used same technique to test earth continuity. I cannot find the earth that is allegedly under carpet near the driver's seat....

So I took the centre trim out and got to the control unit. Unplugged the harness and I have a voltage on both the permanent and switched live. Neither of the earth pins seem to have continuity.... If crusie control, airbag and locks share the same earth maybe that explains it? I need to try and find the earth point, maybe just corrosion? Any idea where the earth points are?

I found a guide online and it looks like I have to remove the centre console. I hate plastic trim... The module location is highlighted. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1879665/Skoda-Rapid-Nh-2014.html?page=211#manual

Thanks. Crusie control and auto door locking has stopped working along with an airbag warning light. This is the offending fault code. I need to check if the module is receiving power or not. Did you remove some trim before taking that picture?

Does anyone know the location of the airbag control unit and how to access it. Which screws and flimsy plastic clips do I have to navigate? Car is 2014 Rapid (non spaceback).

I changed my rear shocks and springs but can't find the required torque settings for bolt 21 on this image. If anyone can also confirm torque for the 2 shock top mount bolts and the drop link bolt on the control arm that would be good too. I believe torque for the bottom shock mount is 70nm plus 180 degrees.

I think you are dead on! What a gent you are. If I interpret the pictures correctly on this thread, my breather hose is not even connected so is honking oil everywhere!

Thanks for the response. I'm wondering how there is so much filth around the end of the fuel rail, if the only source of oil was from the air pipe leading to the throttle body. The pipe seems pretty well sealed at both ends and the fuel rail is in the middle. I'm now considering if there are 2 separate issues, one causing oil in the air system and a separate leak around the fuel rail.

More pics

£2,000 ono located in Mid Cornwall I have owned this car for 10 years. I have replaced oil and filter annually. Gearbox oil was renewed with genuine VAG oil in July 2020. Timing belt was replaced July 2020 on around 108,000 miles. Although not a complete chav, I did mildly Kevin this car - the car is on lower springs, the back end looked way too high on origianl setup. It was also remapped by Quantum tuning - the engine is the best thing about this car - it pulls very well for a 21 year old car! It has a jetex cat back exhaust which looks good and sounds throaty but not over the top. The car was resprayed around 4 years ago so no pink tones or lacquer peel. Unfortunately, the numpteys in car parks did not get the memo regarding the respray - I have matching damage on each rear door as shown in pictures. The car suffers from the legendary door lock nonsense - central locking unlocks all doors except the driver's but locks all 4. I have 2 keys but only one works remotely. Driver's electric window can be temperamental, although of late it has been behaving. The original air box has been retained, but the current one makes a great noise for the childish. It passed the most recent MOT, after I showed tester that seatbelt does work - but a new clasp probably should be purchased in future. The car needs to go to someone who likes to tinker. Fundamentally, it is a solid car for the age, but would benefit from a new lease of enthusiasm from a new owner. It is a very entertaining drive and would look even better if new owner repaired the paint damage. Any questions please ask

1.2 tsi has a strong smell of fuel. I've read a few reports of fuel rail bolts shearing. Is the part I've highlighted red the fuel rail? None of the bolts appear loose or sheared. Or is this not the fuel rail? You can see the filth all around the end cylinder so something is leaking. It feels oily, maybe that's what happens to old fuel? Inside the air pipe going to the throttle body seems oily inside too which is a concern.

I'm also going to replace the sai valve aka combination valve as it seems this failing would likely be the cause of why the air pump is full of water.

So I have a failed secondary air pump that I started removing today. I disconnected the 2 air lines and a lot of water came out. I'm no expert, but water in an air pump probably isn't great. I don't think there are obvious splits on the hoses so I'm wondering how it got so full of water? Anyone know a good place for a cheap pump? Autodoc is quoting circa £140 and I don't trust the ebay ones as it when I put in my reg it says it won't fit!

I kicked this in the weeds but bit the bullet this weekend and replaced the rear shocks with the often recommended Konis. They have only been on a day or so but from initial test drive it seems a lot of my issues were rear shock related. Perhaps avoid vmaxx suspension....

I ended up going to a skoda main dealer parts desk. 2 bolts and one nut exactly as you described. The ball joint came supplied with a nut. No issues with access regarding sump or gearbox. Toughest bit was the corroded ball joint nut removal as you can't get a socket on them with drive shafts in place.